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  2. I agree with Frosty, break it up smaller. The coke you have there would be OK if your forge was twice the size and you could mound it up more to get more of a coke oven effect, but you would need to be working big stock to justify a fire that big. Andrew
  3. SLAG & Marg, Have added all the good folks to our list and intentions. Good news about your house and property. Hang in there, Chris C. SLAG.
  4. Personally, I'll say "Thank You", from Oklahoma. The tornado that came through the East side of Norman this week came right at my house and 1/4 of a mile away it lifted. Went right over my house and then dropped back to the ground 1/4 of a mile away. Thank God it was only an F1 level and not F3 or above. As it was, we only lost some tips of the trees in our wooded property. Prayers work.................we were praying from our storm shelter. Thanks for your prayers.......................because we are under another tornado warning tonight.
  5. Today
  6. TY JHCC Got her all plumbed in, and setting on its permanent home. Been doing some short low temp burns, after I baked the burner in the wife's oven for a few hours. Shhhhhhhh. Going to slowly increase the temp and burn time for two more day before turn the inside a nice orange ish white. I will post up a video of the swirl soon. How far off the burner block should the flame be? 1/4"? 1/2"? 1" ? Looking for that sweet spot. 20190524_185226.mp4
  7. I'll double evaporust but have no clue what it would do to the wood handles. Probably soak them up to but shy of the handle. They will need cleaned up a little more after, and beware that evaporust darkens steel the higher the carbon content. I'd also agree to retreat the wood handles. Epoxy doesn't sound bad in my opinion and it might seal off some of the rust under the handles. Unless you plan to remake the handles or try to disassemble pre treatment then rebuild, (probably not an option on reuse).
  8. That's for the input everyone. I'm leaning towards breaking out the slab in the forging area and seeing the dirt underneath looks like, but then probably making a pressure treated box and filling a sand/gravel mix from my neighbors pit.
  9. "Maybe a new round of epoxy, on any gaps..."
  10. Here is a picture after several minutes of run with the tapered portion of the office incandescent this is at 2 psi When I shut it off there was a very small back fire. I haven't built the forge(any forge-ever) yet but will continue playing with it tomorrow . I have a bunch of old AP Green fire brick so I will try it out on a brick pile set up to see how it does. The fire brick is set into the plenum and has kaowool packed around it for testing. the tapered orfice is facing the hot side. Do you think that It would be of any benefit to flip the brick over so the taper to face the plenum. Maybe accelerate the gas flow? Regard less I am stoked by my results!!! Bear in mind that I have never forged anything and am greener than a Leprechaun's balls! as regards forging
  11. Dan and Frosty Your experimentations have set me on a path, the harder but more rewarding path. Yesterday I built 2 Frosty T Burners Today with 1 of those I test fired my 112 x 1/8" flared orfice NARB which I also built today. It is nor cast I drilled a 2800F brick Here is the drill bit I used. It was not long enough to drill through the 2-1/2 " brick with a clean 1/8 " hole but the shoulder had a taper. I drilled the brick and the pushed the taper into the brick which compressed and flared the top 1/4 inch. Here a couple pictures of it burning This at about 5psi another at 5 psi
  12. Old wooden handles, neglected on a rusty knife, would most likely have cracks, and gaps between the wood and steel. Gaps that can contaminate the meat. Maybe a new round of epoxy, followed up by sanding, would seal in and keep out contamination, as a final step in the restoration process.
  13. The interesting thing about blacksmithing is there are always new techniques to learn, "beginner questions" to ask, no matter how long we have been at it. I've had the same question, but about the hex and triangle sized holes I see in the newer blocks,. I don't have much oblong triangle stock lying around to use in those. I have used my industrial block (500+ lbs) holes to help bend stock. Mostly I use them as tables , or to store bar stock Honestly, I have found the smaller blocks to be much more useful, as they can be moved around easier, and have bowl shapes etc. I was told that bar stock was not uniform, back in the day. So the smith would run it through a swage block to get it to an exact size, for use in wagon/buggy making etc. Good point! I mostly do knives, not hammers, so I have not used them for that.
  14. Yesterday
  15. Thanks for the suggestions. A little info on my friends. They are 85 years old and have lived most of their lives on a cattle ranch. So, they use everything as long as possible and then longer. Using their very old knives is just in their blood. I haven't seen all the tools they are going to use but assume they all have wood handles. I will check out Evap-O-Rust.
  16. The printer jets remind me of a similar idea I had to use replacement gas jets a few years back. The printer jets appear to have the same drawback; very short orifices. If you have to mount capillary tubes in the jets to get the desired result, than nothing is gained over using a MIG contact tip.
  17. Finished the leaf I had started months ago, I drew out the end to be able to attach it to something and gave it a little bit of life. I also bent the point down on that hook I just made the other day.
  18. By far the most common usage is as a backer for punching and drifting. Pick the hole that most closely matches your workpiece and go to town. Especially useful if you have an oddly shaped hole , for example an axe eye is much closer to rectangular than square. Also, holes that are significantly different than the ones in your anvil(s) will be better supported with the range of sizes in a swage block.
  19. Sensible of you, since that is exactly what many will do, whatever you say
  20. Yes they are from Ken's. Pretty handy to build where most of the drawing out work is done already.
  21. I used upside down RR tie plates over the sand and gravel for my floor.
  22. For the past several weeks major storms have devastated the central U.S. The states of Texas, Kansas, Oklahoma, Missouri, Arkansas and others have experienced tornados and major flooding. I will ring the anvil three times to ask the Goddess, God and Great Spirit to help those affected recover from them.
  23. I prefer dirt except dirt becomes mud when it rains (forge is outside). Soon it will be brick. Not for comfort. Strictly to satisfy the fire chief so I can get a permit to forge outside during burn bans. I would go with concrete, but the brick is free. Paver-base and sand isn’t but isn’t that expensive.
  24. Just checking; there's a reason it's "stainless" instead of "stain-never".
  25. I like those big ones! I've got some 1" or 1 1/4" rebar. Might be fun to make a 3 ft snake
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