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  2. That stuff is all well and good but nothing accelerates one on the learning curve like blood blisters. Joking aside I rolled a couple Orings on each side to stop the bite. I don't have a pic though. Frosty The Lucky.
  3. I wasn't taking issue, it's just that the narrative so far has been; by hand good, jigs, guides, etc. bad. I was just introducing a little balance to the discussion. Frosty The Lucky.
  4. Ok, this turned into a semi forged project. I have a form with a blade length of 30", 39" oal. Distal taper ground in with no bevels. I still need to forge in the fuller, but am wondering if I should go thinner as previously suggested. My question is there any advantage to going thinner vs thicker other than weight. I always thought midevil weapons would have been heavy for true battle weapons.
  5. Today
  6. At a minimum, consider taking a small round file and rounding the sharp corner.
  7. Frosty, never said that a jig can not be used appropriately or have a time or place.. What I did say though is working to perfect a skill is well worth it.. Practice is the only way to get good at something and once you have that skill set it can be nearly as fast or faster depending.. Sorry, if it struck you sensibilities.. There is certainly nothing wrong with doing anything anybody wants to do... But there is also a reason why long timers in any given trade where it's more than just the machine that plays into the finished or end product..
  8. Ah, there's a time and place for everything, nothing wrong with: jigs, guides, fences, etc. If a person can't tell a fence, jig, whatever is out of adjustment they wouldn't be able to do it by hand either. For example. Cut two accurate 21 13/16" circles from (pick a material). Going to do it by eye & hand or use a circle jig? Time and place for it all. Frosty The Lucky.
  9. Thomas I like your suggestion. This solution came from a blacksmith in Israel.
  10. Ahh shame them out of biting! I found some rubber washers that I was able to push over the knobs when I warmed the rubber---moved them in a bit so they would show up better on my travel vise:
  11. Sometimes even a great vise has a bad day and bites. Found these and fixed the problem. Pool noodles or floats
  12. Please start another thread for the Kanka anvil review.
  13. Hey I know it’s a bit late (a few years) but I was wondering if it’s still up and running ? And is it still near Tyler?
  14. So long as they're not procreating in alarming ways! Frosty The Lucky.
  15. Just needs a couple shims, one on each side so they're not in the way. The adjustment is the tricky part, I thought of taking an old saw vise apart for the tightening wheel and screw for a similar device. Making the ways without borrowing a mill is a head scratcher. I still have the clamp mechanism on a shelf if I come up with something worth the trouble. I like your built, I probably would've done it differently but I didn't do it at all so I'm just talking. Frosty The Lucky.
  16. Is it a steel faced WI anvil, a solid steel anvil, a cast iron anvil? It is a stress concentrator and depending on what type of anvil it is you might consider having the Gunther/Schuler anvil repair process done on it.
  17. Yeah this just goes to show Kanka takes pride in their anvils, it didn't take a whole lot of effort to get this replaced and it happened very quickly all things considered...I'm pretty sure the harder anvil will get more work done as more energy is transferred into the work as opposed into the anvil. Should I start another thread just to review this anvil? I'd like to do my part to help others here to make the decision and help kanka for the excellent customer service they provided.
  18. Yeah, 22" is a great length, you're a lucky dog Thomas. Wait a second, who said, "Fortune favors the prepared mind?) Military axiom I think but true anywhere anytime. Frosty The Lucky.
  19. If I had to do it again, I would make it so that the alignment rods are outside the jaws of the vise. Then I could drop the whole frame down into the vise. That would alleviate a lot of the creeping; having the clamping force closer to the work. It still works fine as is, and I don't think I'll go to all the trouble of rebuilding it. Ran out of 1" square stock anyway.
  20. A raging missus is never a good thing. Ditto Thomas!! From the sound of your posts you should keep a number of "Quick NICE" items handy. Frosty The Lucky.
  21. Looks like one to light a torch ot pilot light. Any patent stamping on it?
  22. I lucked onto a great deal on excess steel because I was the one that showed up with a pickup truck---and an angle grinder, face shield and hearing protectors---and an extension cord. The seller said folks had been showing up with passenger cars and expecting him to cut the 20' lengths to fit for free! He even sold me the drops, (200 pieces of 22" long 1/2" sq solid stock), for less than scrap rate! Handy size for a lot of projects and having the drops means the long pieces are still mainly intact.
  23. Be careful; looks to be a difficult to swim with item. Out here it's generally staking over anthills as 80-90% of the time I can walk across the river bed and still have dry feel. Make her something *nice*! *QUICKLY*!
  24. Not bad at all, how do you like it? If you put a spacer to raise the stock closer to the center of the rollers the rollers shouldn't want to creep up. Frosty The Lucky.
  25. Forged several largish nails yesterday to use in a skit at our church last night. It was a shadow play and I used my spanish dog head hammer as being the one least likely to show as "modern". I was told the sound effects of driving the nails into a piece of wood were "spooky". Another odd blacksmithing job to add to my list.
  26. I'm thinking its the mustard, vinegar is more likely to clean a patina off than make one. You might like to try making a paste from Coleman's powdered mustard and water. Be careful, it's WAY hotter than the Kraft yellow substance. Vinegar is added to mustard to set the heat at the desired level. Be careful not to stir up dust when handling Coleman's dry mustard, it makes pepper spray look like Visene. Yeah, I adapted mine from Uri Hofi hammer handles and a farrier friend of mine's hammers. The tapers make it so I almost don't have to grip them, friction is almost all the grip I need. You need to break the edges after cutting them out of course or they'll cut your hand. I noticed at a demo the audience was pretty impressed when I spun my rounding hammer without looking to change from pein to face. It made me think a little more flash would be nice but some of my hammers are so well balanced I can't tell from the weight shift so I sanded the pein edges of the handles more round so I can feel which way the hammer is pointed without looking. It's a crowd pleaser when I put 3-4 revolutions worth of spin when the hammer's over my head. It's just for show but demonstrations are theater, little tricks like that set things in people's memory. It's how I teach. The tapered slab handles just turned out to be very advantageous at my anvil. Guy's gotta get lucky once in a while you know. Frosty The Lucky.
  27. I'm sure you've built it by now, but for others and future reference I have used the coating on 2300 ceramic blanket in a furnace. It does hold up pretty well, did many pours out of that furnace and I think it still has the same lining after years of use. Still, this is less use then a forge, as a melt takes under an hour, so 50-60 pours is only that many hours. Never-the-less, in a furnace the flame is pointed directly on the wall of the blanket and it works fine. Every few years I would add another coat or two of the zircon shell coating. Only takes 30 minutes or so, and then just fire it up. Heals the cracks from tong abuse. Dan R
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