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  2. That will fine, so long as you remember to warm up the forge slowly to drain any build up of moisture in the refractory, before using the forge.
  3. Pretty nice job. I especially like the floor and the refractory hot face protruding past the steel shell.
  4. The radius on the web makes drawing out much easier. Pnut
  5. You still have the sweet spot even if the heel and horn fall off. I'd be happy to have it. Use it in good health and good cheer. Pnut You don't have to worry about mounting it either, just getting it to the right height for you.
  6. Very compelling argument. How do you think the forge would hold up outside covered by a plastic tote or box of some sort when not in use. I'm in northern KY so it snows, rains, and gets hot. Sometimes all in the same week Pnut
  7. That's a good idea. The best sledge hammer head anvil I've seen so far. Does the hot cut come out or do you keep it on the opposite side from where you're hammer hand is?
  8. Thanks! It's pretty much as cast with about 15 minutes cleanup - cast really clean. I was pleased! I don't know if the pressure in the plenum is comparable to venturi theory. The gas is flowing into a box rather then a larger tube, so you have weird turbulence issues, a right angle turn, back pressure from the number of outgoing many variables. I played today and did notice that the flame is leaning out a bit as I pull out the burner tube/lengthen the nozzle. Also sounds like it's pulling more air. The pitch of the air flow also changes, but that's just like pulling the tube on a trumpet. It may be more sensitive to nozzle length being that it's flowing into a box rather then into the open air or a forge. Either way, it works. No way to play with it more without cutting up my NARB, and thats now my go-to burner, so I may have to make a new one that has a larger opening on it that can take different sized tubes. DanR
  9. Yes; I called them nozzles in the book. It was short for flame retention nozzle, which I make sure to write out completely at least once be before going back to using the shortened "nozzle" term whenever writing on the subject these days, after realizing that others didn't get the fact that I meant to refer to flame retention nozzles every time
  10. Ten cents per pound above scrap prices in your area. It looks like it would be a good Improvised anvil. If you want to sell it there's a tailgating section. Pnut
  11. I would love to place 36 or 40 grains of lead between the coon's eyes. But, they never expose themselves. That leaves trapping as my best option. Set spring loaded snares may work . And egg in the tube traps is an option also. I am going to set a trail camera to see what is happening while nom one is in the building. forge progress. I made the sleeve that will lock the outside chimney tube to the second tube section that ends just under the roof. As of now, the chimney is supported by a Come-a-Long. I think that the chimney base should have attachment loops welded on for cable/turnbuckle support on each of the 4 corners. That way, the chimney which is now bolted to then Super Sucker Hood could be free standing independent of the forge or any other support. That way, the forge could be relocated facing any quadrant. As of now, the forge is facing straight out from the wall which makes the power hammer very accessible and the leg vice. Several anvils would be located in strategic locations. Two smiths could work from opposite sides of the forge. The water cooled tuyere is positioned with the air outlet 1/3 the distance out from the back wall of the Hearth. That leaves 2/3rds of the forge free to build the Duck's Nest. The Hearth is 24" X 24" 9" deep. I haven't decided where to place the water tank. The best location may be over the outboard side of the Tuyere. The Super Sucker Hood is located on the side of the Hearth opposite the tuyere. The water tank is connected to the tuyere using 7/8" ID radiator tubing. By placing the tank high, both the top and bottom water connections will be above the tuyere. For the chimney Top Hat, the plan is to mount a flat 15" sq. steel plate, 11" above the top of the chimney. Just below the chimney top, two EMT tubes will be connected to a welded on bracket. The EMT will be spread 90 degrees to each other and be bolted to the roof peek.. I am slowly learning how to stick weld using a 110vac Forney inverter 100Amp welder. A 3/32", 6011 rod does a good job. My big problem is striking the ark. Once the arc is struck, I have very little problem keeping the arc going for the length of the rod. I have MIG welders in another building where there is 220 vac. Another handy tool is a Plasma Cutter. It beats cutting with gas and a saw.
  12. I understand. If you are looking to justify the build, one thing I can say is about the time savings. I like both solid fuel and gas forges. In terms of not having much time but wanting to smite some steel, the gas forge is a time saver. I can forge more often because of the simplicity and ease of the gas forge. It's an unfair comparison but liken it to cooking dinner over a camp fire vs a gas stove. No time spent building or managing the fire, no clinkers, no shoveling fuel, no smoke. Light it, let it preheat, do your work, shut it down. I have done it several times in one day. And it looks good. Nice job. As to the step flare talk, I like the term nozzle which I think I picked up from Mike's book. Flare makes me picture an expanding taper on the end of a cylinder. Like bell bottoms, the flare with flair. Now we have 3D printer nozzles to add to the confusion. I suspect you are tinkering with plenum pressure. The definition of Venturi effect that I find most often is a decrease in fluid pressure as a result of passing through a constricted section. This would apply to any burner using a reducer as the inlet and it is part of why so many use a reducer. The outlet taper from the throat of a Venturi tube is for the opposite effect, pressure recovery. Converge to drop pressure and diverge to recover as much as possible. This is where the 1:12 angle comes from, it is the fastest expansion possible that does not cause turbulence which would hinder this recovery. While you are stepping, which is a faster expansion, it is still better than the huge immediate expansion at the plenum. More plenum pressure, more push, more induction. Leaning out the flames a bit. This is what I suspect but I could easily see the opposite being true instead. Your flames being too lean, you increase nozzle length, which increases drag and decreases induction. Either way, as Frosty stated, it is a final tuning by making small changes to the fuel/air ratio. One reason Mikey controls the overhang on his sliding stepped nozzles.
  13. No idea. Would love a pair of them.
  14. Very nice at very worst you have a very nice ASO for 2.00 a lb. At best you have a great anvil at way under value. Either way unless no one eats for a week or the mortgage isn’t met. There is little or nothing lost. I was rooting for you. Good job.
  15. Just wanted to give you guys an update. I ended up getting it for a little over 300. That said, I did take a bit of a gamble.... When looking at it I noticed two weld marks under the horn and under the heal. the sides are smooth, with no brand marking, but i believe that is because they were ground smooth and uniform at some point. From the research I tried to do on the spot at the auction, I read that after a certain time period Trentons were actually made in two halves and then ark welded together at the factory. The video link in my second comment in this thread also shows the guys anvil having similar weld marks to mine. I figured there are two possibilities. A: The anvil really did crack in half at some point post factory and was welded back together. I'm assuming it would have been due to being dropped, as the surface is pristine. There aren't any major dents or dings anywhere on the anvil that would support this. B: The weld marks are from the factory and they were rough enough on the sides that it annoyed whoever owned it enough to grind them flat (or this was done at the factory for cleanup ). I am hoping it is the later. When my steel ball bearing arrives I will do the bounce test. I also did a better ring test after I got it home: I did manage to locate the serial numbers it is 150 lbs and #222487 What are your thoughts? Did I jump the gun or get an ok deal? Either way I had a good time at the auction, quite an adrenaline rush. PS The hardy hole has a piece of square tubing in it to act as a reducer. Once I knock it out the edges are crisp on it as well.
  16. Well, not today, but the last two weeks prep for today’s and tomorrow’s demo. Not show are three 6’ tripods and tramell hooks. (Also not shown, the stack of failed tomahawks...) Keep it fun! David
  17. Had these for a while but never seen another pair similar. They hold, but mark, rail spikes very well. Anyone else have a similar set? Thanks as always, Whisky
  18.! Farrier tool was my first guess, my cohorts drove me toward upholstery and carpet...nonetheless, useful little buggers!
  19. The price is nuts. You can get a new anvil, of that size for that same money. The shoddy, incompetent 'repair' is incompetent and has damage the anvil still further. The vendor is looking for a "forged in Fire' uninformed neophyte. Hopefully, that anvil will decorate the antique seller's shop for many years to come. Some others will post about anvil repair. It's a major job and costs much time and money. SLAG.
  20. Mr. Dragon is correct. And, Mr. Steven NY is also correct. They are called "lasting pincers" in the shoemaker's trade. Check "United Global Supply" for pages of cobbler's tool pictures and explanations. In other words, we have, here, one tool and two different uses. Just sayyin' SLAG.
  21. They look like Cobblers Pliers to me, my dad made shoes for a living for over 30 years. He had several pairs very similar to the ones shown. They where used for lasting the uppers. Have a good one, W
  22. It can be shortened, but the whole thing's pretty light so it wouldn't do much damage. I was in a hurry when I made it, so I wasn't thinking about the added length when tapering the material down... whoops.
  23. A local antique and collectibles shop has this Peter Wright anvil in the shop. It has been there for at least a year because it was there last November when I saw it the first time and it's still there today and I snapped a few quick photo's. Assuming I am reading the side correctly this is a 120 lb Peter Wright. Unfortunately is had some damage and even more unfortunately the damage seems to have been repaired very poorly. Other than the damage to the one edge the rest is not in terrible shape. First question is can it be repaired into a usable shape? Second what would you pay for such a specimen assuming it could be made usable. $850 seems rather high for it given its condition but since it has been there for at least a year I think I might be able to talk them down. What's it worth? What do you guys think? I am not without an anvil I have a ~80 lb anvil that was likely made in Pittsburgh PA in the mid 1800's. My current anvil for its age it in good usable shape. But having a second bigger anvil is always appealing.
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