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  2. Looks pretty good.. When I was in VA at Colonial Williamburg The lead smith said that Peter Ross figured out that they kept having to correct for the curving when they would make draw knives.(weld seam). Peter said it didn't make sense since of the extra work needed in the process.. He Then decided to weld the strip of HC steel to a square cross section and then forge this on a diagonal.. This kept everything in line and it both forge welded easier (the HC steel protected by the direct contact with the wrought iron) and then only needs to be drawn out regular fashion vs the thin cross section of the HC steel.. Makes perfect sense and if you look at old composite ones the weld seam is straight both at the handles and across the blade.. Kinda a Duh moment.. LOL..
  3. Oh, I have no doubt that the manufacture cares little for the dangers of the un rigidised k wool, lol. Any suggestions on how to reduce the damage from thermal cycling or a way to deal with the door seal? I don’t think applying rigidiser to it and closing the door over a piece of relise (wax paper) is the best answer.
  4. I understand your concern with the wool concerns from the manufacturer, but I'm sure you wont get far with them as far as your end of that issue - repair and ridgidize as per your needs - I still think the cushioned support of the body will solve that mechanical damage from the over the road vibrations(If this is what is causing some damage to the interior) Otherwise I would believe the deterioration of the liner is just normal user usage, and that is normal consumable results of any forge.
  5. Finished my drawknive, i forgewelded a piece of c45 carbon steel to mild steel for the edge and shaped the handels ware shaped before i welded the insert. Forge welding is a steep learning curve, it took me 5 atempts making this blade. Burning the insert al least 3 times. Its not perfectly shaped but i'm happy with the result and it holds a decent edge. The handles are made of some scrap wood pieces of oak
  6. Thank you, Jeremy, I am considering replacing the 5/16 welded studs with 3/8 carage bolts threw the body. An additional suport bracket is certainly a good idea. This still leaves the mechanical damage to the liner (the kiln shelf won’t come out threw the door) and the damage from thermal cycling. It also dose not adress the unrigidised k wool and it’s associated dangers A good idea to add to the list., you type faster than I do, lol the aluminum cradle is threaded for 3/8 corse threaded bolts, and if I remember right Koller makes generator mounts that would fit
  7. The forge body could be set on a cushion type mount, so direct vibration from the road stops before getting to the forge - could be with some rubber mounts mounted down away from heat effected area.
  8. Currently the ideas on the table are one, buy a reline kit and upgrade the kit with a reflective kiln wash or two salvage what we can of the and go frankenforge...
  9. Charles - re-lining is no big deal - burner mount - is it just mounted with just 2 threaded bolts welded to the forge body(is that what keeps failing?) - no problem weld on support to help hold the gas line end, which will be more stable during traveling down the road to your clients. To much offset weight is hanging off the 2 mounts - a support is all that would be needed.
  10. So on to my delima. Even with replacing the welded 5/16 studs with 3/8 stove bolts and cementing the ends and shelf in place the desighned isn’t very road worthy. Thus it is going to be regulated to the shop and I am going to a side blast coal forge on the truck. But even as a shop forge we can see the damage caused buy thermal cycling, the un rigidised door liner etc. thus I am opening the resurrection of this forge to the ideas from the general membership and the gurus of forge necromancy.
  11. Just starting to learn blacksmithing techniques. Definitely interested in more than just blades. I shall shape all forms in time.

  12. Today
  13. So my proforge is in need of a reline, and the burner assembly needs reattached for the 5th time. So this is a $600+ forge, in witch the cheapest reline kit is $120 (I have seen the forge for $1200 and liners for $500). As one can see, mounting said forge in a truck and hauling it all over is detrimental to this design. Whe I asked the manufacturer about how to beef it up so it would service, I was told not to mount it in a truck... ok, you did sell it as a ferriers forge, and 90% of us go to the client.... Anyhow, in the forges defense it has a 2” 3 piece liner (tho I belive their is a one piece liner available) with a custom kiln shelf and a bit of k wool under the shelf. Plus the end ports and the door with ports. Tho the door is lined with in rigidized k wool and the forge comes with a wad of k wool to plug the unused end port. So here are the critical dimensions. And the burner assembly
  14. As far as which forge to use, I suggest using both. Each has it's own benefits and draw backs. We have both and use the one best suited for the work at hand. If you are set on purchasing a gas forge this thread may help with the decision.
  15. It is common ground, but seldom brought up. Your question is valuable to loads of others making similar decisions.
  16. Thank you; sorry for retreading standard ground.
  17. I think Mac likes her stirred up, perhaps just so they can make up ;-)
  18. There is nothing I like more than testing a burner's limits; nor anything I'm quicker to do than sand bag my figures heavily when writing up instructions afterward. If other idiots need to jump off the proverbial cliff, this idiot ain't a gonna help them none!!!
  19. Yes; a refractory plug for a burner port (and other openings) not being used is a standard idea of good utility.
  20. After talking to my sister it sounded more like an invasion. I was under the impression we bought them but I was only about five yrs old and was mistaken. The memory is hazy for me but my sister remembers them well. From thesound of it they weren't pets more something that was tolerated. Thinking back on it I don't know why they were never dinner. Pnut (Mike)
  21. So now I'm conflicted. Should this be in 'Show us your blacksmith pets' or 'It followed me home'? It's a little from column A, and a little from column B!! ROFL!!!
  22. Thank you JWMelvin. My Googlefu would not find it.
  23. Forged a few letter openers from some old floor mesh off cuts like the one in the middle. These are the pieces of floor mesh that are cut out around plumbing fittings before the concrete slab is poured. Our builders at work just throw them in the skip bin, so I rescue them, cut them to the size I want and make these. I like recycling stuff.
  24. ....I fear that is over my personal party budget....but if You are around, stop by and lets do a blade together.... ....with rams horn scales, of course Rams horn is tricky and sometimes can be frustrating to work with but it is so beautiful that I challenge the difficulties again and again. .....this man is into ramshorn, he says: " unique in his own way, because every single set up of horns comes with its unique set of problems."...that is the very truth. ....I like the video and I like the guy and his passion and I would like to share it with you guys....let there be horn. Cheers
  25. I talked to my oldest sister last night. She told me how we ended up with the birds. Four or five guineafowl showed up on our property one day out of the blue. When Mom finally figured out who their owners were and tried to return them they wouldn't take them back. They were as close to wild as a guineafowl can be and apparently took over the dooryard and tried to chase everyone away that came around, so the neighbors were happy when the birds made their way to our property. Pnut (Mike)
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