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  2. Heh. Good one. How long you been waiting to use that one? Arrrgh. Yeah, more power to the Wonder Hut. It just gets me in an uncomfortable bind.
  3. Dang, I meant to address this question and I totally forgot in my enthusiasm... The air supply needed for charcoal is a lot less than you think. I used a hand air mattress pump with the JAGOD, but I've since moved up to a handcranked blower a buddy gave me. There are people who use blow dryers and to control the amount of air, they moves the blow dryer away from the mouth of the tuyere (that's the pipe that sends the air into the fire). A side blast forge has the tuyere coming in the side of the firepit, while a bottom blast forge has the tuyere attached at the bottom. As I understand it, and in very general terms, a forge using charcoal will perform best as a side blast forge while a forge using bituminous coal is usually a bottom blast. But this is not always so. Also, generally, charcoal forges need less air than you think, but the air needs to be going to the right place. That's where the learning comes in. One of the nice things about a JABOD/JAGOD is that you can tear it apart and re-arrange bits to suit your needs.
  4. In my shop I hooked up a socket to my air compressor and screwed in a red light bulb that stays on when the compressor switch is on, I don't forget to shut it off this way. I have several electric heaters with 4 hour spring wound timer switches on them, plus red light bulbs. Another compressor idea is to wire it through a time clock and install only the "off" cam set at the latest time you would be in the shop. That way the compressor will never stay on all night. Just use the manual switch in the time clock to turn it back on.
  5. Hans, Awesome shark sub. Wow! What a wild imagination to bring it together!
  6. Shabumi, those chimes have a good sound. Look forward to the final assembly. Nice hammers guys. Nihil, very cool heart for sure! Great first for your son.
  7. I've used multi process welders though not one of those and they're really handy. I say no to putting it on an under amped circuit. Not because you probably can get away with running it turned down but because sooner or later you or someone is going to turn it up. Even then everything might be fined but you'd be overloading the circuit and eventually. . . Maybe. I try to cover myself as best as I can. I'd seriously think about upping the sub panel. You don't want to take chances in having to rename it the "Wonder What Happened to it Hut." Frosty The Lucky.
  8. Stainless electro-polishes beautifully too. Frosty The Lucky.
  9. Today
  10. So my blacksmithing buddy mentioned multi-process machines, such as link removed, which I would use along with my little Lincoln MIG. My use is hobbyist and project based, so not every day and probably not anything large. I don't usually weld any steel over 1/4-3/8" thick. Anyway, I have several questions. First, a caveat: My blacksmithing buddy was a Navy electrician and I have done some work with 120V, but the second I sense even a whiff of danger, I'll call a professional. My nose is as sensitive to the scent of danger as it is to money, which is to say, pretty dang sensitive. Right now I'm just trying to grasp what my options are. So, onward... 1. Has anyone used any of the multi-process machines and if so, what's your opinion of them? 2. Most of these Everlast machines are dual voltage but need 40A or 50A. The Wonder Hut has a sub panel currently wired 120V/60A---2 15A circuits and 1 30A circuit. Can I run successfully operate one of these multi machines on a 120V 30A circuit provided I keep the controls turned down? 3. Is it stupid/brilliant/unnecessarily complicated/too expensive to come up with a way to switch from 120 to 240 and devote all the power to equipment that needs more capacity? Or maybe switch the 120V/15A circuits off so all 60A is available? (I think I've asked this one before but I don't remember.) I could re-wire for greater capacity, but that isn't as easy as it seems. The Wonder Hut shares power from the Moneymaking Shop and we're already wondering if we should increase the Moneymaking Shop's capacity. Right now, those two shops have 120V/200A between them. The house has 400A capacity but I don't think I can easily access power from the main house for another sub-panel and even if I could, I don't know if it would be financially feasible or frankly, if it's a good idea---when I get an electrician out here, I'll ask. And yeah, this all seems backwards, designing capacity for a machine I may or may not buy, but I'm fairly sure I need a buzz box. There are little plasma cutters that are ADORABLE and will work provided I use my compressor, but if a multi-process machine will do all I need plus TIG, well... Thanks.
  11. Lots of things aren't addressed in fantasy or they'd be science or history or something else boring. Things like lava not being hot enough for more than modest work. I'm starting to think about putting stock more than 5/8" sq. back in the fire at medium-high orange. How long would you have to leave steel in the lava for it to absorb enough sulfur to be an issue? Thank you, I thought you'd enjoy a little friendly schist. Frosty The Lucky.
  12. Thanks Thomas, that's about what I remember though I don't recall where, heck it might have been Food Network, Alton Brown maybe he goes into history. You're probably right John though I don't think it's that much a problem, lots of old school pizza ovens are coal fired. A version would be nice around an evening camp fire. Frosty The Lucky.
  13. Yesterday
  14. iv forged stainless a fair bit over the last year or so, only in small diameters for pendants and similar objects. it is quite tough to hammer on but if you keep it hot it moves ok. it also likes to crack on thin sections, again working hot seems to give less issues. normally ill give it a good scrub whilst hot then soak it in warm citric acid. once you have cleaned it up it can look lovely.
  15. Thanks! She loved it! I was a bit bummed that I had planned both of the twists to be to the "outside" but after I'd done the second I saw they were in the same direction. Ah well. Love the look of the rubik twist but don't love making the cuts. Brought my son to the forge over his winter break and he made a hook. His first product from forging. Only helped him drift the hole. So great to share time with him at the forge
  16. I really like that Nihil. Good job, I'd say. Bet she was tickled!!!!!
  17. Like the indentations on the base of some types of anvils...
  18. Made this for the wife for Valentine's Day. Started as a 14" piece of 1/2" A36.
  19. If you are ever in Vermont, I would like to invite you to my shop to run both air and antique mechanical hammers side by side.
  20. That tong chart is from over 100 years ago when tongs were being made from wrought iron. Largely irrelevant for modern makers who are using A 36 or 1045 or 4140... Even our modern basic grade of steel (A 36) is far stronger than wrought, so functional tongs can be made from much thinner cross sections.
  21. I'm gonna have to use that saying. I have now thanks for the information
  22. Yes, that will make it very flat, But if you put a slight hollow in the bottom it will help for it not to rock as much when not on a flat surface.
  23. I'm going to make this one a but taller just because. Right now the blade will just fit up to the tang.
  24. No I did not hollow out the bottom. I built a framed out box to use as a guide and then used a chainsaw with guide blocks glued onto the saw arm. It worked great!
  25. Now I understand your extensive sources, or "resources", as they may be. Wonderful.
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