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  2. The reason containers come partially loaded is because you can not share containers. The shipment must be in one person or company name and that person is responsible. If you only want to ship that small amount, you go LCL. Talk to a freight forwarder, they will tell you how to do it and how much it costs. There are hundreds of Freight forwarder in texas and everywhere else. I am sure you understand that buying and shipping are two different things. You will not pay germany consumer tax but there are other tax involved at your end. The hurdle to overcome when buying in another country is the reluctance from private sellers. Companies in Europe are familiar with shipping and will most likely do it for you. A freight forwarder can organise pick up at the sellers address, truck to a depot to be packed or palletised and placed in container, paperwork for export and import and ship to your place. Talk to the freight forwarder how to minimise the risk of picking up a dud or losing your payment by paying with a letter of credit.
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  4. I agree with Slag; what a great hold-down! Simple and effective. And a wonderful moustache too, Mr Stash.
  5. In the Forges 101 thread we discuss various kinds of gas forges, including brick pile forges--hint hint
  6. There are updated versions of both kinds of burners. My changes are distributed all over this thread; sorry for the inconvenience. Frosty has just given a concise update to his burners, all in one place.
  7. Are there updated plans for Mikey’s burners or Frosty’s T burners? I noticed this thread has gone on for three years and unclear if there is an “official” update.
  8. Thanks guys. I was hoping with the forced air going through it, it wouldn’t be that hot.
  9. I’d like some advice on the most versatile gas forge shape for doing artwork. I generally don’t do knives and focus on things that are more flat and large as a foot print. For example, I’m taking saw blades 7-11” and drawing it into a bowl with a swage block or cupping tool. So it might start 10”-10” by 1/4”, but after forging it becomes 6’’x6”x4”. Other pieces are things like masks I’ve read the burner and forge threads. I’m trying to heed Mikey and Frosty’s advice of building the smallest forge that will work. I’m currently using coal forge and OA torch, but would like to use a ‘So far, the design that essential craftsman uses for his forge with forced air ribbon burners seems like the ideal fit. If there are ways to put larger items in a smaller forge, would love to hear ideas.
  10. Try places that do welding and fabrication, machining, mechanics, suspension shops, scrapyards, recycling drop offs. You have to get out and look. It's expensive to ship steel. It's heavy. If you can get it cut to fit in a flat rate USPS box you can get quite a bit of steel shipped to you but I think the largest flat rate box is 12x12 inches. I don't remember the depth off the top of my head but the drawback is that the pieces will only be a foot long. Good luck. Pnut
  11. This has worked for me, before you go home at night heat up the SHAFT, next day put a three foot pipe wrench with pads to prevent marring and get all of your weight on it. Spray lots of kroil wherever you can. Repeat day after day. Took me two weeks to loosen a frozen shaft AND I didn't break anything! Once you hear the first little screech you've won. Patience is the key.
  12. Never a waste of time when you can brainstorm and list items to help others in the future. 226 people have viewed this thread in just 7 days already.
  13. Got together with IFI member Stash for a truly excellent dinner and some forge time. Stash made a kind of leaf I’d not seen before and showed off his ultra—simple holddown while punching the tab on a bottle opener: And I played around with a waterleaf scroll: Fun was had.
  14. If you go up the post a-ways and thru bolt I would not see much compromise, But without a beam saw that slot would be a pain to cut clean.
  15. Welcome to IFI... Have you read this yet? It will help you get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST Cheap and internet is truly a contradiction of terms. There is a supplier section in the Knife Making Classes forum.
  16. You are quite right about reading flame temperature being a hard task; actually, it is a very expensive nut to crack; not one I was willing to pay for, either My point is that we don't want to forget that they aren't the same nut. Is this just nit picking? Nearly twenty years back a student sent a model showing his idea of one of my early burner designs, for evaluation; it was hilarious, being about 23" long. I cut it down to a reasonable length without changing its flame, and sent it back to him...BUT he had taught me a valuable lesson as too; namely that all of us were tuning our burners to neutral flames and ignoring hotter possible flames--just because!!! They are called Hybrid burners now. So, I'm not saying anything about your method, just reminding us all--including me--not to overlook the obvious again
  17. This thread was discussing post/leg vises, not bench vises. The pivot bolt discussed on this old thread holds the moveable jaw to the stationary one. The part you show the picture of is not a leg vise. Have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST We still don't know where in the world you are located, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show location.
  18. GoodMorning, There are lots of partially loaded containers coming over. Talk to someone in the Shipping World and find out who you can tag a shipment with. Neil
  19. yeah i wouldnt do any of that steam stuff ,especially without an autoclave, and even that is usually in large process ceramic shell facilities where youre dewaxing 150 lbs or more of wax. most foundries stopped doing that since the breakage is much higher with uncured shells or green investment mixture. jewelers usually use a small fired kiln. if your investment mixture is silica flour and plaster it stands a better chance, but still the steam breaks down ceramic shell before it's cured (it gets vitreous at 1000º). you want a fast hot kiln that can get to 1000º in under ten minutes if possible. if youre using investment mixture then you want to get through the 212º range long enough to drive out steam but not so long that the plaster calcifies easier. i usually cook investment mixture for a few hours, whereas with shell, they can burn in under a half hour...
  20. I started out by using galvanized pipe for the choke sleeve, since its inside diameters tend to be just a little larger than black iron pipe, and once the galvanizing is burned off, grinding is reduced to power sanding. But stainless steel tube could be purchased with large enough inside diameters, so that even sanding wasn't needed, and its small price was offset by the fact that it had good appearance. Since my burners called for buying S.S. tubing for their flame retention nozzles anyway...
  21. It'd be helpful if you put your general location in the header, you never know how many members live within visiting distance. Lots of smiths are willing to help someone learn, especially in exchange for cleanup, lawns, etc. Lots of us old geezers appreciate a teen around to help out, say ride along to the salvage yard or steel supplier to help load, tiedown, unload stack. Good way to get rides to meetings, shop time and a share of the scrounge or purchased stock. Frosty The Lucky.
  22. It was a crazy place to wander around, here are some pics of the inside. That same day I went to the sawmill and bought some nice pieces of hardwood (two maple legs, a maple stretcher, and a russian olive top) to make a side table for my bed. I'll have to think about forging some hardware for it.
  23. Heard the rubber mallet one also! My roomate in college was known for saying "...and what he doesn't tear up, he looks on!" Refering to me! Anyhow. Fun times! Much appreciation to your grandfather! I have tons of respect for our great military! I am a civil servant on a marine base in eastern NC. Those Devil Dogs are tough!
  24. Your welcome.. I call it the way I see it.. Good work is good work. It shows good technique and the pickiness is how you get good. Many people never get that good even after years of working at it because they have the good enough bug when it still needs a little more attention (a lot).. LOL.. You have made steady progress and there are a few on here that inspire me to do better.. You for sure are one of those. Keep it up. Again, i love those S hooks and the spooky critters. nice work all around.
  25. I live in Hemmingford, Quebec which is a small town bordering northeastern New York state. I have been interested in blacksmithing for several years and purchased my anvil and farrier’s vise at farm auction. Now that I am retired I’ve gotten caught up in the Forged in Fire craze and think I will enjoy blacksmithing. Of course I won’t be making knives but rather tools and simple things to practice the craft. I live on a farm so the hammering of steel will not be bothering any neighbours . I found a good source for refractory bricks in Montreal and finished making a small propane forge out of k26 fire brick today. Very pleased with the forge and burner I’ve made. I’ve watched many youtube videos on blacksmithing to pick up techniques but I think a basic blacksmithing course is in my future to get me moving along in the right direction. Very glad to have found the IFI website because it contains a wealth of information. If any of the blacksmiths nearby are willing to share their knowledge and experience and would enjoy visiting them.
  26. Flatliner: KSL brings out the worst in people. Or maybe it just reflects the community? IDK. People commit then no-show/ no-reply ALL the time, or show up after committing and then start dickering, and the list goes on. I recently drove an hour from South Jordan to Santaquin at 6:30AM to buy a TIG welder and the seller backed out of the sale _after_ I arrived and texted to ask if they were ready for me. Just, wow... And someone is going to be mad at me, but here’s how it turned out. I was careful to remove minimal steel with a flap disk, but couldn’t see embossing all of my work with flaws from the anvil. I figured it’s better than letting it finish rusting. I hardly touched the face at all. If the horn delaminates, I’ll probably cut it off and go from there.
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