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  2. Charles, if you've got a boneyard nearby, you could possibly salvage some muffler hangers from some vehicles. These placed under the feet of the forge stand could give you a nice amount of shock resistance. And with the variation in sizes/shapes of them, you could easily find something that works well. They can be a beast to get off the car though, so it might be better to cut the bracket and try to remove at the shop with some spray lube and a punch. How about fabricating a little platform for it to sit on. Some anti-fatigue mat stuff from Grainger/HF/<insert store here> adhered to the bottom of a piece of plywood, and the muffler hangers as feet/bracers for the forge platform could do wonders to be a shock absorber. Might be enough to take a lot of the impact damage out of the equation. Just a thought.
  3. Well for around 1000 years the weight of a typical battle sword was around 2.5 pounds. I've had folks tell me they were up to 40 pounds; I guess they have never tried to swing one at that weight! A lot of replicas are way too heavy because people "thought" rather than researched. Alec Steele has a youtube video where he is examining museum pieces and gushing about how LIGHT they were---what I've been saying for decades... Pretty much the same thing with medieval/renaissance armour; people tell me that it was so heavy they had to use cranes to get on a horse; funny it was about 40+ pounds lighter than a friend of mine in Special Forces, Nam, was expected to carry on foot and fight with...
  4. I will do that. Would a K26 forge be comparable to a blanket, refractory, wash forge of similar volume, in terms of burner capacity?
  5. First buy a box of K 26 IFB so you can change chamber volume and shape precisely without a lot of hassle. Why K 26? So they don't crumble every second test. Yes? Document everything of course. Frosty The Lucky.
  6. Greetings Backwiods, They make great Hardy dishing tools . Lots of different functions. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim
  7. A few years ago I was in Metairie Cemetery in New Orleans, LA and came across this monument. An interesting an sculptural use of an anvil shaped object. My hat is for scale on the 4th photo. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."
  8. Charles, you can get the 26 firebrick, Kast-O-lite 30, kiln wash, and other refractories through the IForgeIron Store. Gas Forge Refractories and Supplies
  9. Frosty

    Barn Find

    I resize pictures by doing a "Save As" and selecting a smaller file size in my pictures file on my computer. I rename the resized pic by adding 01 to the existing file name. The handles on blowers were designed to be easy to replace and I think often got tossed to save space in a move. Just cut a length of bar stock that slips easily through the connector on the shaft then drill a hole for a bolt and make a wooden handle. Old shovel handle ends work a treat. If you want a counter weight, mine doesn't have one, be creative. A cool forged fist maybe? If you're missing the shaft connector the hunt is ON. can often find a broken "parts" blowers for cheap almost anywhere. I'm having to keep my eyes open, my old trusty blower seems to have developed a broken worm gear though until recently it's been too cold in the shop to break it down that far. Good thing I rarely burn coal eh? Frosty The Lucky.
  10. I built both of my first two propane forges at forge building workshops put on by my local ABANA Affiliate; I don't know how long they will last though it's only been around 20 years so far! So my suggestion is to check to see if your local Affiliate offers a forge building workshop anytime soon.
  11. Today
  12. I'm amazed at how fancy such cooking could be---I guess I shouldn't be as I've had peacock cooked over an open fire on a campout twice now---once was Peaduckhen! The put the fire crafts---cooking and blacksmithing side by side and we used to share hot coals---when they raked out the oven the leftover coals went into the Y1K forge. When they needed to fire up the oven a shovel full of coals from the forge acted as the starter.
  13. What is your procedure for testing the limits? Are you meaning the pressure range or are you putting them into multiple forges to test their forge volume capabilities?
  14. We had a long discussion about trading labour for skilled instruction in bladesmithing and the number a group of Pro's came up with was 10 hours of unskilled labour for every hour of 1:1---and most small shops don't have that much grunt labour---a lot of folks said that they used sweeping the shop time to figure out problems. Usually much better to go with paying for a class. The local ABANA affiliate(s) can probably tell you what is available in a reasonable drive.
  15. Greetings Farmall , Back in the day it was common to go to the basement to start the old coil water heater . No pilot light at that time . That striker is long to reach into the burner. Just my thought. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim
  16. That is certainly a valid approach. I don't know how often it will be relevant, but I would just as soon fix it once with grinding than fix it each time a hardy stem happens to be too long. I am mostly concerned about the hypothetical one time that I don't notice that a bottom tool stem is just a little bit too long and I get it stuck. The thickness of the anvil at the hardy hole gives me confidence to use a sledge liberally . I wouldn't have quite as much ability to apply force from the bottom.
  17. Good point Mike, change that idea to bend up a couple tabs and screw them to the burner. Frosty The Lucky.
  18. The only detail I would change from your advice is welding on cast iron parts; a recipe for ulcers. Thread on the tabs? I like the advice about forming Morgan K26 firebricks and a heavy finish coat of Kast-O-lite 30; that's a recipe for happiness
  19. Frosty

    Burners 101

    You don't have to stand by a melting furnace while it works though, forges tend to exhale right on you. Nothing like waste oil burners for mystery atmosphere. Frosty The Lucky.
  20. Owner's stamp; hope they don't come a looking for it!
  21. Welcome aboard Chubby, glad to have you. What do you mean, "get you started?" That lady is in fine shape, I don't see a spot on it I wouldn't use, just a little care and your Grandkids will be bragging about using their GrandFather's anvil. What's it weight? I'm guessing it's reasonably light. JAW was probably stamped into it as identification. I like paint of a color no thief would be caught dead with in his/er possession. My initials are JAF they get remarks from smart alecs. I just don't let mine out of my sight. SWEET score by the way. Have you skimmed the Burners 101 and Forges 101 threads? There is a lot of discussion of propane forge and burner construction, orientation, size, shape, etc. Plus lots of ideas some even practical! Frosty The Lucky.
  22. Lots of hobby casters have built oil fired casting furnaces in pursuit of "free" fuel; some of them have been fairly clever, and of course, what you can do for a casting furnace can be done for a forge. However there is a vast gulf between "free" and practical
  23. I had to look at some images to get an idea of what you have to work with Charles. What I see are a couple details that should be easy enough to solve. The screws holding the burner in place are kinda ill designed, two studs to carry that much weight and leverage is just . . . I don't know what that part of the burner assembly is made of but I'd look into welding a couple or four tabs, one or two under the curve and ditto across from from them. That way there are the two original studs at the far ends and the new centered to prevent it from rocking against them. The current studs form a straight line like a fulcrum with a heavy lever bouncing against it. Make sense? I see liners are single castings. You can just cast one in place, I ditto Mike, Kastolite 30 and a good kiln wash will outlive us all. You can carve Morgan K 26 firebricks with a hand saw and rasp to fit like a glove. Give it 1/4" - 1/2" of Kastolite for hard armor and a kiln wash and it'll last decades or longer and be well insulated. Rigidized Kaowool, 1/2" Kastolite floor and 1/4" roof kiln washed will do nicely but be a job. I wouldn't use the K 26 option for the door but I can't say why, something is niggling at the back of my mind. I'll come back if I think of it. Matching the door to the jamb with waxed paper is the easiest way to get a near perfect match. I'd use two layers of Saran wrap though Kastolite sticks to darned near everything, you can peal waxed paper off it but you end up picking the torn bits off and if Kastolite is stuck to both sides it'll be a Mother BEAR. Two layers won't stick to each other and you can just light the forge to clean it off what it does stick to. A door gasket is easy, use "Stove Rope," it's a refractory woven rope gasket material for stove doors. Home Depot sells kits or just but a tube of Stove Rope Cement. Run a bead of cement, press the stove rope into it and cut at an angle so you don't have a gap. Or just cut it, it's a forge a little leakage won't matter. This should give you enough to think about for a while. Hmmmm? Oh, a soft ride, I'll have to give it some thought and get back. Right off I'm thinking something like buggy seat springs that pivot on the screws. You can tighten the screws so they impart drag and act like shock absorbers so it doesn't bounce like crazy. I'm not thrilled with the idea though, I'll get back. Frosty The Lucky.
  24. Never saw one like that. This was the strangest one I had ever seen before that one. I keep it in my cool old curious tools drawr till I get time to make a display for the shop wall.
  25. Picked up this anvil in Milwaukee to get me started in blacksmithing. No room to make a permanent setup, so wanted an anvil easy to store tucked away inside until I am ready to bring it out. Next I will start to build a small propane forge. Rebound seemed pretty good, dropping a bearing from 10" it would bounce between 8.5"and 9" over majority of the face. 'JAW' appears twice on the bottom and once on the back, what does this mean?
  26. Yesterday
  27. Of course, if your scroll former is irregular, your scrolls will be too.
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