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  2. I can see some folks are trying to pull in the date of the estate sale for my smithing stuff! Actually with the forge being back near the property line my wife only looks in it about once per year, probably on the advice of her Dr...
  3. Research the Dangers and how they differ for each type of fuel, (for solid fuel forges I would expect at least: charcoal, bituminous coal, coke and perhaps anthracite coal.) Cover storage, use (Ventilation!), dust issues, heat issues, safety around the forge, putting the fire out, dealing with problems, etc. I will check to see if any on my books include a safety chapter as I know instructors often want hard copy sources as well as net sources.
  4. Thomas, you really need to hang a sign on that buck's neck that says "Yes, Deer" (only if your other half doesn't frequent the shop often, LOL)
  5. IFI is an interactive peer reviewed document. You have access to an archive of information provided buy knolegible folks, discussed buy the same and any incorrect information is quickly ferritted out. Profetinal Smith’s, talented amitures, fabricators, metallurgists, engineers, authors all contribute. The bonus is that you can also talk to and receive perspective from the contributors. Note that forge desighn and fuel type and quality effect fire management, as dose blast type. To show your due diligence in your reserch one might mention that up front, and then after describing your chosen combination and it’s managment and use, briefly describe differences. Most of us certainly won’t write your paper, but as folks that have written papers and taught we will be happy to offer clarification once you do your due diligence. Parden the spelling
  6. Think I paid a buck for mine way back when...We cruise old used book stores on vacations for FUN!
  7. I used to beef up a roof beam with two lally columns and a piece of heavy C channel to lift anvils using it. 1920's decrepit garage and I didn't want any Wylie Coyote escapades lifting anvils!
  8. Ethan, I've watched your videos. You have accomplished a remarkable feat, what with all the forging, cleaning, handle making, etc. I recall when you first started out smithing, and you have progressed fantastically (sounds like Alec, I know). I think you deserve a long vacation from that job!!! (before the next run, LOL). The next run should be a lot easier.
  9. I've always been amazed how willing to help other smiths have been when I've just outbid them on something we both have wanted. I bought a 6.5" postvise; definitely robustus, at a sale of a car repair business that had been in the same building since 1918, (so the old blacksmithing and woodworking tools were still in place...) Well I was recovering from having my appendix removed, old school scar, and was not supposed to lift anything. I outbid two other smiths and they actually loaded it for me!
  10. Chelonian, your 230VAC circuit(s) are adequate for your welder, just make sure that ALL your WIRING, RECEPTACLES, PLUGS and BREAKERS are proper for carrying up to 50 amps or whatever your welder requires. From your question, I would recommend you consult a licensed electrician to do ANY work on your welder circuit. As others have mentioned, the 110/120VAC welders are underpowered for anything above 90-100 amps and that is really stretching it for anything but thin steel.
  11. My wife just donated my set of plaid Bermuda shorts---I tried to promise her I'd only wear them with my collection of Aloha shirts...
  12. Looks like there is something funky about the Pittman arm to spring connection. Can you post a close up photo?
  13. I bet it packs a wallop. It looks like a tool that would take practice and the same partner to get truly proficient with. Pnut
  14. Thank you sir id saw it was just a little awkward. It was very tiring, not because it was heavy (it was less than 20 pounds) but because the motion that the handle has to travel in is a little different than in you were to swing yourself, so you end up working against the other person sometimes. If you just got comfortable at it over a few days, great power and accuracy could be achieved. it was cool how much BANG it had when it hit hot steel, compared to a normal sledge.
  15. Today
  16. P/B Blaster use it all the time in welding shop on farm eqt
  17. Wire welding is easy to learn, and there are plenty of machines that plug into a regular 110/115v outlet.
  18. Agreed. Lots of work for minimal return. Turn it into cash and buy bar stock!
  19. Is it in a form that supports something you want to do? I've met several people who "saved" nearly a dollar by forging down large "free" steel they had; of course they did spend an entire day and $13 worth of propane to save that dollar... It may be an alloy like is used for plane frames---a chrome moly alloy; I'd expect a motorcycle frame to be more than mild steel; but not an alloy good for say blades. Many "free" scrap items are best sold as scrap and the proceeds used to buy what you need. I'd list it on Craigslist and see what you can get for it.
  20. That's a lot of hammers. Nice work.
  21. Most steel used for automotive frame or body has at least a thin galvanized coating as far as I know, even if it is painted over. It's usually very thin but even if you are grinding off coatings, PPE should be used.
  22. Thank you for the responses and suggestions! Perhaps wire-feed is a better choice here. I will look around at some when I have time. I really don't know much about wiring circuits, but I will look to see if it's a viable option.
  23. snow load isn't a problem due to the rough cut 2x10 rafters, which should hold the snow we get each year just fine. I'll talk to my dad about just using rubber, but he wants to do shingles. The pitch definitely isn't changing now!
  24. Great job on the sledge. I'm sure it was no easy task. What I'm sure everyone will want to know is, have you used it, and if so how was it? Congratulations on the position too. You know what they say, " Find a job you love and you'll never have to work a day in your life." Pnut
  25. Asphalt shingles in not an option I would recommend. Most manufactures require a 4/12 pitch, but may reduce that to 3/12 if you use ice guard and reduce the shingle exposure. Your roof looks to be a 1/12 pitch or less. If it is that flat screw down metal roofing is also not recommended. A concealed fastner standing seam roof may be ok if installed and flashed properly. Standing seam will probably require a layer of underlayment (synthetic felt id the best) of a slip surface over the Zip panels to maintain warranty. With how flat it looks, I would think a rubber roof (fully adhered) would be your best bet. Removing the shingles on the existing and extend your rubber at 24-30 inches would be best. As Marcusb mentioned snow load would be a concern of mine. Almost more so ice loading could be a big problem depending on how you insulate the roof.
  26. Forgive me for posting here if theres a dedicated thread for this kinda thing. So I've got a 96 or 97 Honda shadow 1100 frame sitting in my shed since a buddy chucked it while moving. Everything ive gathered thus far leads me to believe that it should be made out of DOM steel tubing that's likely powder coated. Question is, since its highly unlikely that it's galvanized since it's automotive; once i grind off the paint/powder coat would it be a good/safe source of steel for basic things? Taking into account the chimney effect. Real cautious with new materials i haven't messed around with in the past. Has anyone worked with something Similar? Thanks in advance, Mike
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