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  2. Jennifer, sometimes slower is better. That way, the little (and maybe bigger) mistakes come on not so fast!! LOL. On the other hand, with your smithing skills, I feel that mistakes are small and very few between. Take your time, smell the roses and enjoy every minute of it.
  3. IRing rust: If you had seen me forge before I quit.. You would be shocked how fast metal can move by hand. I looked through my journal the other day. A spring lock was 1.5hrs start to finish. It would take me 3.5hrs now. A carving hatchet like shown now I think of as a full 6hr demo. But back in the day was 2.5-3hrs start to finish including hardening and tempering. I can forge out to near 90% in 4hrs but it is a struggle for sure. I have thought so to about being knowing vs doing, back when I was in my 20's and even into my 30's. ( I only used to forge when I had paying work and if it was once a week i was still ontop of my game).. I know now that is not the case. the only way for me to get back into shape and keep it, is to forge 3 or 4 times a week. this would have me back to full steam in about 6 months. I'm 3 years out of retirement and while I see steady improvement across the board I can also see the deficiencies. I forge once a month or so now, if not a longer time in between. . Knowing how to do something and then actually being able to apply it is a different ball game all together. Many of the earlier "How to". Videos show this slowness. its fun to watch videos from last year and even ones older as there is a certain understanding that simply gets missed when one does not practice enough to put it into application. Saying vs doing.. Still good videos and great from a beginner aspect as the forging is slower and more watchable. As I have gotten older I have found I fully know how to do something and can explain it, but the ability with "Hand to eye to Hand" is slower. this slowness is the age related aspect. Proper lighting is crucial now. LOL. I can't see details in the metal as clearly though I have pretty good vision. So to stay on top of the game regular forging is what I need. Again, 3 or 4 days a week is ideal. During the summer I do a bunch of demos which by the end of the season I'm feeling pretty good. But then I do very little forging during the winter other than for videos. which are about 1-1.5hrs of forge time, once a month. LOL.. Hardly practice. I'm a righty but think like a lefty maybe.. Getting the Blacksmith teaching facility up will change a lot of what is going on.
  4. Its true, too many variables. It's a pretty forgiving burner, but I may have just gotten lucky on the first try. I was just blown away that moving the burner tube 2" increased the temp 100F...Now I'm just thinking, "What if I just...." I'm just chasin' that rabbit down his hole, I do need to actually use the darn things and make a few knives! ...or a sword...or a seax.....hmmmmm..... DanR
  5. Ms.(?) DeEuLear About two years ago I typed in a long quote from the United Nation's Food and Agriculture Organization (F.A.O.), series of blacksmithing. (second volume?) The article described how to pattern weld mild steel together with cast iron to allow the carbon of the cast to migrate into the mild steel in order to get a steel suitable for forging into knives etc. Search for it as it is too long to retype. If you want to carburize 1095 steel may I suggest that you get some commercial case hardening powder instead of charcoal or hoof trimmings or vine cuttings or blood meal, etc. etc. Please note that case hardening takes a long time while expending a lot of fuel to keep the heat up. But for a flyer, what the hay, give it a go, and good luck with your noble endeavor. Regards, SLAG.
  6. I'm not quite sure, on the website they are labelled as coke forge beans if it helps I am in the UK
  7. Today
  8. IMG_5591 (1).m4v The Bradley is hammering for the first time in many years
  9. Thank you, my Sunday will be reviewing these links.
  10. As far as results, I dont see any ring rust. Your skills speak! And its all good! Technique is like riding a bike. Once learned it sticks. Muscle memory usually makes for a speedy comeback unless injured. After using the rail anvil for a bit and learned a bit more hammer control it was time to make it more useful. Lefty?! Me too! It has its advantages.
  11. It takes some getting used to. Your blower should be fine for your forge. I read you're going to be using coal. Anthracite or bituminous? Pnut
  12. When I write the term nozzle, your "flame retention nozzle" is implied. At least in my head, which others don't have access to. I suppose I should write it out in full as well so that there is less possibility for confusion. I was more so meaning that the connecting tube which you are sliding the burner in and out of is responsible for the pressure changes. I am with you on the plenum being it's own monster as far as variables and what is happening to the stream once it exits the connecting tube into the plenum. I have a mental picture of what may be happening in there but it is speculation at best. It doesn't sound like it. My burners can go from lean to rich by changing the nozzle overhang alone. I am not sure if it is changing induction dramatically or if the fuel/air ratio has a small range of happy. More speculation, I wonder if you made dramatic changes here, if the burner wouldn't like it. To the point that you may need to increase/decrease the quantity of ports. Mikey's stepped flame retention nozzles are stepped to make a more dramatic expansion to slow down his high velocity FAM stream. To put on the brakes as he puts it. Your port quantity is balanced to your stream velocity and volume. If you slow it down too much, maybe you get to flashback territory. I am not sure how picky the NARB's are with this. Especially yours since it seems to be below the quench distance. I should probably get off my butt and start playing with ribbon burners a bit deeper. I once had my forge directly rained on for quite a while, which upset me greatly. I started it in bypass flame for a nice low heat. After the steam stopped billowing out and the forge got to a low red, I turned up the heat and all was good. Somewhere I read that the refractory is hygroscopic. If this is true, you heat the forge regularly which keeps it bone dry and when you shut it off, it absorbs moisture from it's surroundings. I have no idea if it's true but I start my forge with full heat and have not had any problems. If my forge has been off for weeks, I give it a few minutes in bypass before I kick on full heat. Not sure if it is needed but it only costs me a few minutes.
  13. OK thanks sorry for posting twice I didn't realise the first post went live I thought I had made a mistake.
  14. You already posted this elsewhere. There's a subforum for blowers and bellows. If you post the same thing in multiple forums it's considered spamming. To answer your question yes your blower will work. Pnut
  15. I've just started building a new coal forge and I was wondering about blower size, I have found one the motor is 60w, airflow 176 c meters/h or 103cfm and the pressure is 280pa. Is this suitable?
  16. Still lots of face left on that anvil to work on, as long as whats left of the face is still hard and attached. That said, the price is silly.
  17. Here is a picture of my buddy Basil Bob. He seems to have adopted me. I think he's more dog than cat though. He comes when I call him and he follows me around if I'm outside. I can't bring him in though. The landlord says," No pets." He even hangs out while I'm beating on hot metal. All in all he's an all right guy once you get to know him. Pnut
  18. My guess would be Arm and Hammer from the very unfinished under heel and arc welded waist. I saw a branded A&H in an Amish farrier shop that had the very rough under heel and a very obvious arc welded waist. Could be wrong but It's my guess and I'm sticking to it! Nice anvil by the way.
  19. hardness/sharpness is almost the same for 1070 and up, it is carbides and abrasion resistance that increase with higher carbon. There is much more to changing steel performance than carbon content, that is why basic metallurgy is a 4 year college degree not just a weekend course Of course it wont hurt you to try to carborize the 1095
  20. Just the cutting ability of white steel without the price. It is somewhat hard to come by round here allthough there seems to be a guyselling it on ebay lately. and a funny thought experiment du
  21. looks like a good build, is there any counter weight to balance the tup? and I think you would get much better response at light blows if there was some kind of gap between the dies at full tup down. my 90lb mechanical and my 60 and 150 all had a gap of 1 to 2" between the dies when the tup was down , this allows for the spring to help feather lighter blows. my 90lb would cycyle without the ram touching the pallet and could give the lightest blows. all of my 100lb ish hammers have run from 220 hits a minute up to 320 so a lot faster.
  22. After taking a few months break from forging, I've started back, working on a double first. First billet of pattern welded steel, and first knive. After heat treat, i've a couple of small delaminations visible on the blade, but they don't look too deep, so fingers crossed they'll grind out... nothing fancy, just a big twist and going for a bold, high contrast pattern.... i'll post a few pics once i've got the final grinding finished, and get it etched (viking style seax). I had a little offcut from that steel, so decided to make a Mjölnir necklace out of it.
  23. I'm running out of excuses it seems.I only have tofind the cash now. It's not at the top of the list though. I just bought a Buffalo blower and had it shipped without the stand so I have to come up with the money to get the stand and pedestal shipped. It weighs more than the blower which was 41 pounds. By next spring I expect to have a gas forge built.... Until then I bask in the warmth of solid fuel. Pnut I had no idea a blower and stand weighs about a hundred pounds.
  24. The table just needs to be strong enough to hold whatever weight you put on it. I'm sure it will be strong enough to hold the firepot, fuel, and any tools. I would be more concerned with bracing the legs of the table. Expanded metal makes good bracing to stiffen the legs and doubles as a shelf. The blower should work fine. Pnut
  25. I'm just getting started building a coal forge and I have found a blower, the motor is 60w, airflow 176 c meter/h or 103cfm and finally the pressure is 280 pascal. What I want to know is will this fan be suitable, the firepot measures 6inx8in by 5.5in deep made from 3/8in or 10mm plate steel. Also will 3/16in (4mm) be thick enough for the table which will measure 2ftx3ft. Thanks in advance
  26. That will fine, so long as you remember to warm up the forge slowly to drain any build up of moisture in the refractory, before using the forge.
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