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  2. That reminds me, I need to make a new pair of bolt tongs
  3. Shouldn't that be "frankengrind"?
  4. Don't forget that the USPS has very strict requirements for mailbox height...and technically requires that a new mailbox be "inspected" before they use it. Usually that inspection thing is so loose that it's not an issue unless you've done something very crazy. Problem 2 is the county or city right of way issue. Because it's on the right of way in most cases, the county/city sometimes likes to have a say about mailbox mounts. Some paces require break-away mounts so that a careening car doesn't flip over a mailbox that's mounted like a tank trap. There can be snowplow requirements also. In my county (very rural and small), the county engineer just wants an idea of what you are doing so that he doesn't have to yell at you for something stupid later. It's a breeze to go into the offices and chew the fat with him. Other places, not so much. He wanted a wood break-away near the base on mine (large cast steel gears) and that had me put the project on a back burner. Finally, mailbox baseball. If you are subject to that kind of vandalism or people using the box for target practice, design appropriately. Don't assume that because someone else got away with it 10+ years ago, you will too. YMMV greatly depending on the region and whether their governance is oppressive or lax.
  5. And thickness of the application.
  6. I think it was a Pulwar (not sure) and they kept calling it an Afgan sword. I really think the sword they were working on was a cheap India or Pakistan reproduction that was left to rust away. I can't even wrap my head around grinding on an original by a supposed expert restorer.
  7. Many of these mistakes are made by people that heard the words, think they are buzz words and will increase the number of viewers or interest in what they are doing. Then the buzz words become used more and more because surely they can not be wrong as it was used on such and such.
  8. Saw that and cringed. Plus the fact that the "restoration" on the sword included aggressively grinding the bejeebers out of it and they claimed that made it worth about $ 5000. The producers pushed reality well into fantasy land on that one.
  9. I was watching Pawn Stars yesterday and they had a so called expert in to authenticate a sword. He kept talking about the "groves" in the blade (fullers) good grief get it right will ya.
  10. Today
  11. For those who are charter members of the cult of ignorance I get my curmudgeon on. ~ Charles R. Stevens
  12. Depends upon the size of the bag.
  13. Looks like a perfect forge body to me. Like Thomas said overcoming the large burner port is a piece of cake if needed. Our forge has a large port because of the burner design and it likes some secondary air.
  14. I have no natural skill in that direction, but I'm extremely stubborn! ~ Stormcrow
  15. Can anyone tell me the coverage, square inches at what thickness, for a bag of Kast-O-Lite ?
  16. My phone allows me to send pictures to an email address. I read my email on my home computer system and save the photos there, (much more storage than on a phone!) Then I can post from my home system and "choose files".
  17. Good advice. I had gotten the silicon carbide for wet grinding, but the short life just wasn't worth it. I reground this knife with 220 grit ceramic and it seems to have worked well. Ceramics have always been my go-to for lower grits. My grinder is a Craftsman 2x42 that I frankensteined for 72" belts. I also replaced the disc sander with a pulley, and mounted a motor behind it to step down the speed when needed. I'm slowly working on a new grinder. Once I get that set up I'll see how it does if I mount it for seated grinding. I prefer to do as much as possible on the grinder, but it's never perfect. At some point, I always manage to round over an edge just a bit, or leave some deep scratches from the edge of the platen, or slightly convex the tip. Slower belt speed definitely helps catch mistakes before they get out of hand, but my lacking technique doesn't let me prevent them in the first place. 220 grit seems to be a good point to leave the grinder and correct these by hand before moving on to finishing.
  18. Even I have posted pictures here and no one is more computer illiterate than I am.
  19. Casing is a term also used for veg tanned leather, moistening it, getting it ready for tooling---or forming blade sheathes from it.
  20. Blown burners are not as picky about sizes in my experience so you might be able to build one a bit closer to that. Of course it's fairly easy to decrease the size of that hole in various ways, (sleeving, casting, stuffing with kaowool,...) I have a forge made from a gas welding cylinder, (Oxy), and while the heaviness makes it a pain to transport it's great to use as it's stable with stock in it and I welded a small piece of sq tubing on each side that a sq stock "third hand" rides in so I can use it with the back door oven and a long piece in it---one side for the front and one for the back. To my eye it looks like a great forge body and the 12" allows for 2+ inches of kaowool.
  21. Wouldn't that attract chain letters? (It had to be said!)
  22. As regards to your power grinding, you should get quality ceramic belts for your heavy stock removal steps. You’ll find that you can get lots more work done without overheating the stock and that the belts will vastly outlast aluminum oxide belts. You’ll still need patience when working thin edges and especially toward the points of blades. I keep a water dip handy but rarely use it. Start out with cool metal and use very light pressure when grinding thin areas. Grind several pieces at a session and you can have several cooling while you work on others. Remember that the belt heats too so don’t try to work too fast overall. Good ceramic belts only seem to be available in about 120 grits and coarser... so I use the aluminum oxide belts for the finer grinds. Just work slow and carefully as you get to the finer grinds... light pressure and short spates of work on each piece. BTW variable speed grinders are essential IMO and slower speeds are better for almost every step, but especially the finer finish grinds. If you are using a machine designed for woodwork... it is likely way too fast for doing good blade grinding!
  23. EDM stones were all the rage a few years ago, but people seem to have drifted back to Rhynowet paper. I still use them sometimes when I am working hard to preserve a crisp corner, or trying to polish some strange crevice that is too awkward for paper. However, I find the abrasive paper to be faster than anything I have tried. Nobody likes hand finishing, but it is what separates the rest from the best.
  24. Thank you for this post... I am also very interested in your copper inlay process. now I have even more stuff to do/try and less time to do it in....
  25. As to the availability, we have to figure out how to produce them reliably and also workout all the other stuff. As soon as possible. Life stuff has this effort slowed for a couple more weeks. I am still conducting burner experiments regularly. Nozzle experiments as well. As to the running a forge with a plastic inducer, there was too much radiant heat for mine. Pointed up helps with chimney and may induce a little more air but it wasn't enough to compete with the radiant heat. The plastic melt point is too low. I suspect you are right about the NARB's doing a little better with this. Mix tube length can get the plastic a bit further away from the forge. The 3/4" burner has a longer mix tube then the 1/2" burners I tried it with. A few extra inches might make a lot of difference here. Though, the mix tubes themselves can get quite warm depending on forge design and they don't have to get very hot to make the plastic soft. User jwmelvin is using plastic reducers with a NARB running at full temperatures. He did have one go soft which he talks about on this post of his thread but he is still using plastic as far as I know. His reducers have an open back(plastic free) so radiant energy may not be hitting the plastic like it does with my inducers. He is another user to ask. He can probably provide you with more information than I did on the subject.
  26. Jon, there are rental places (atleast in my area) that rent out concrete grinders that could put a better finish on your concrete floor. I used one once helping a friend out with his basement concrete floor. You dont need to fully polish it but could get it smooth and able to be swept up.
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