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  2. Johnnyd, I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST
  3. Frosty....Your story crushed my heart. I'm sad, but I'm not. If my pets can't get in I don't wanna go. Twilight zone episode.. Here's 1 of 2 cats
  4. Today
  5. Depending on when the Peddinghaus was bought plays into many factors as to the quality of the finished work. It seems that many were not finished past a certain depth of the hole. I think they might have switched to a shorter drill bit and a shorter broach. This leaves the bottom of the hole unfinished. The #12 I bought a few years ago also have this same problem and you can see where they tried to drill it by flipping it over and chasing the original hole with little success.. I will be installing a second Hardie hole.. as I miss this on the left side of the anvil..
  6. This is the best advice I can think of too. ABANA has some excellent on line tutorials. Beware of You Tube experts unless they are endorsed by members here. A collection of blacksmithing links on YouTube - Reference Materials - I Forge Iron https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/52373-how-to-watch-a-youtube-video-collaboration/
  7. If we get to Thailand I'll be sure to look you up. I'll do my best on a blade but no promises. The Seax is getting a Myrtle wood handle, I've had it on a shelf since the mid '90s for knife handles. Shortly later I discovered I'm not really a bladesmith guy. Forge the preform is no problem but I didn't have the skill sets nor desire to learn them at the time. My experience associating with that character pretty well . . . Nevermind. I have the grinder and would like to play with pattern welds, see what I can develop. What I make with it . . . ? Frosty The Lucky.
  8. Beautiful work on all of the above, but that bigger cutting board really is exquisite.
  9. I love this forum, great advice on blacksmithing and sound marriage guidance counselling! Thank you again gentlemen! We’re OK again I’m still chuckling at that
  10. Join ABANA and join the New York Designer Blacksmiths. Go to every meet, hammer in and conference that you can.
  11. Omnislug

    Fulton vise?

    hadn't thought of that, good idea! Thanks JHCC!
  12. JHCC

    Fulton vise?

    Searching "Sold" listings on eBay will give you a decent idea of what people have actually paid for such things in the past (as opposed to what people are trying to get for them in the present).
  13. Welcome to IFI! If you haven't yet, please READ THIS FIRST!!! Without knowing where you are in the world, it's hard to know what resources are available to you, so please add that to your profile settings. Please note that most working smiths aren't likely to be interested in investing their valuable time with no return beyond unskilled labor. There are free resources available (this forum, for example), but most hands-on learning experiences are likely to cost you some cash. There are some good discussions here about apprenticeships and how best to get started as a beginner; there's a lot to learn there.
  14. Hello All, I am really interested in blacksmithing and would like a crash course for beginners or shadow a seasoned blacksmith. Willing to be free labor for the in exchange for knowledge. I am in Syracuse NY area.
  15. Omnislug

    Fulton vise?

    I got a old fulton vise with a small anvil on it, horn and all, I'll try and post a pic later..I was wondering how old this one is and if it's worth anything, though I will definitely not be selling it
  16. I agree that spring feet, or a full spring suspension mount for traveling is needed. How much does it weigh?
  17. Interesting reading, having done a lot of campfire cooking myself. Frosty The Lucky.
  18. If it was mine, I would re-line it with straight Kast-O-lite 30, and a re-emissive coat.
  19. I have one of what I think you are talking about, but it lacks an arm for the crank. It gave quite a strong blast when I cranked it with a temporary handle. I'll try to rig something up and give it a try. I don't think the one I have would last particularly long in continuous use, though, as it is made of plastic. I'll report back once I have tried it.
  20. Looks pretty good.. When I was in VA at Colonial Williamburg The lead smith said that Peter Ross figured out that they kept having to correct for the curving when they would make draw knives.(weld seam). Peter said it didn't make sense since of the extra work needed in the process.. He Then decided to weld the strip of HC steel to a square cross section and then forge this on a diagonal.. This kept everything in line and it both forge welded easier (the HC steel protected by the direct contact with the wrought iron) and then only needs to be drawn out regular fashion vs the thin cross section of the HC steel.. Makes perfect sense and if you look at old composite ones the weld seam is straight both at the handles and across the blade.. Kinda a Duh moment.. LOL..
  21. Oh, I have no doubt that the manufacture cares little for the dangers of the un rigidised k wool, lol. Any suggestions on how to reduce the damage from thermal cycling or a way to deal with the door seal? I don’t think applying rigidiser to it and closing the door over a piece of relise (wax paper) is the best answer.
  22. I understand your concern with the wool concerns from the manufacturer, but I'm sure you wont get far with them as far as your end of that issue - repair and ridgidize as per your needs - I still think the cushioned support of the body will solve that mechanical damage from the over the road vibrations(If this is what is causing some damage to the interior) Otherwise I would believe the deterioration of the liner is just normal user usage, and that is normal consumable results of any forge.
  23. Finished my drawknive, i forgewelded a piece of c45 carbon steel to mild steel for the edge and shaped the handels ware shaped before i welded the insert. Forge welding is a steep learning curve, it took me 5 atempts making this blade. Burning the insert al least 3 times. Its not perfectly shaped but i'm happy with the result and it holds a decent edge. The handles are made of some scrap wood pieces of oak
  24. Thank you, Jeremy, I am considering replacing the 5/16 welded studs with 3/8 carage bolts threw the body. An additional suport bracket is certainly a good idea. This still leaves the mechanical damage to the liner (the kiln shelf won’t come out threw the door) and the damage from thermal cycling. It also dose not adress the unrigidised k wool and it’s associated dangers A good idea to add to the list., you type faster than I do, lol the aluminum cradle is threaded for 3/8 corse threaded bolts, and if I remember right Koller makes generator mounts that would fit
  25. The forge body could be set on a cushion type mount, so direct vibration from the road stops before getting to the forge - could be with some rubber mounts mounted down away from heat effected area.
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