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  2. The air tubes are auto exhaust pipe 2-1/4 inches or 2-1/2 inches in diameter. One 1/4 inch rod is usually enough. For 3 inch air tubes I use 2 pieces of 3/8 rod. Does not take much pressure, just soft air going to the fire. Only use as much air as you need to make the heat you need from the fuel.
  3. Much obliged Glenn, my phone doesn't like to post links for some reason. They're never active. Those are the exact pics I meant. Pnut
  4. These grates can be used with coal fines or coal dust. Works well with small pieces of coal or jumps. This is just 4 holes drilled into the air tube and 2 pieces of 1/4 inch round stock inserted into the holes.
  5. I have a vague memory from when I was a little kid of my step dad skinning a stillborn lamb and dressing an orphan goat or lamb in it's skin so the yew would adopt it. Does that sound right or am I confused? Pnut
  6. Welcome aboard, one more suggestion. Maybe you just haven't gotten to it yet. Look at the 55 forge thread and get an idea how Glenn uses two pieces of round stock to keep fuel and ash from falling down the tuyere too easily. It's just two small pieces of 3/8 inch round stock I think. You could also use a couple screws instead. Good luck and have fun. Pnut
  7. I see a pretty hot forge there, considering that one end is completely open; it should hit yellow heat, once that is finished.
  8. Well, there are some major advantages to choosing silicon bronze as a casting alloy; one of which is that it can be repeatedly cast, without major changes in its chemistry; it is also not inclined to produce toxic fumes...
  9. I remember, but tiny multiple flames should save as much fuel in this application, compared to single flames, as in more enclosed forges?
  10. As a point of reference; with a 250 cu inch forge (about 6" diameter, 8" deep), using a single Reil type burner (which has a .041 jet size), my forge would run for a weekend of demos on a 20 lb propane tank (small bbq tank). I would guess about 8-12 hours (as someone up there already said).
  11. First: Happy Birthday! Have a good one and a good year! I agree with Frosty, he put it better then me. I have lower back issues as well (only 62 years on mine), so bending over again and again all day is not a good thing. Bad enough that my power hammer is low - I end up sitting on a 5 gal can while working it or my back is in spasm that evening. I wear light welding glasses for any forge welding (the kind for oxy-acetyline), and for regular forging i'm running about 2000F, which is not as bad for the eyes. Even then I often wear the welding glasses. I agree, not good to stare into the heated maw of fire!
  12. Herr Frosty, Has helpfully suggested, concerning clay mixtures, "Clays absorb water slowly but given a little time moisture distributes evenly. If your test shows too moist add a LITTLE more kitty litter, mix thoroughly and seal in a bucket or trash bag and leave it over night to temper. If it tests too dry add a SPRINKLE of water, mix and allow to temper overnight." The SLAG. suggests that adding a few drops of detergent to the water, used in this process, will speed up the whole process, and achieve a closer clay water hydrated mixture.. This hack is used by forge makers, and also gardeners when preparing soil for potting. Regards, SLAG. p.s. Welcome to the forum Bridget.
  13. A number of them. I started using it for pommels and quillions on knives - which were brass. Kind a pain to cast. Then I found silicon bronze was a wonder to cast, no flux necessary, casts easy, beautiful look, etc. The first I got was from scrap form a boiler, but I use either Herculoy or Everdur alloys now. Then I started doing metal sculpture, and bronze is the classic way to go. I think it's what I'm used to. I've also done aluminum and silver. But now I have to try iron! Fantastic that your little 1/2" burner was able to heat up the furnace to at least 2300F. Just looked it up and was surprised that the melting point of gray iron is 2100-2200F, which is about the pouring temp of silicon bronze. It says the pouring temp is from 2450 to 2700 (thick to thin walled castings). Not too bad. Its on my list! Which grows and grows and ..... sigh DanR
  14. Using 1/8" holes instead of crayon sized holes has solved this problem. Look back starting on Page 22 of this post I talk about my NARB mod using 122 holes @ .125" After a 2 hours session of forge welding I am able to turn it down to almost no pressure bringing the forge down to 1450 degreed F for heat treating. No back fire. I'm forging at about 4lbs using a reil burner as the injector. Dan R
  15. A pleasure to meet you Bridget, we need more lady smiths! Just add more dry, mix it and ram it in. If it's still too wet dig some out, replace it with dry and ram it in. It's not a precise thing, get it close and it's good. Use it as it is, or take Irondragon suggestion. Take Glenn's suggestion though, raising the level of the forge table even with the top of the rotor will really improve how it works for you. It's just dirt, it doesn't have to be "perfect" the first time, it'll never be perfect. No matter how many you line or what Pro forge you use it won't be perfect. We're blacksmiths we don't do perfect. Frosty The Lucky.
  16. As painful as it is it's better than living under the 3 Reich or Emperor of Japan. Frosty The Lucky.
  17. Don't sweat it, you were one of the crowd when you demonstrated you were more interested in sponging info than impressing folks. I sponge constantly. Frosty The Lucky.
  18. I"m with Biggun, it'll be a lot less work and more likely to work starting over. Frosty The Lucky.
  19. 1.5 lbs is a respectable test, no sense getting crazy just to find out if it develops enough heat. This is so very cool. Frosty The Lucky.
  20. When we had to bring new kids in we set the kennel on a blue plastic tarp. It was super easy to lay the other tarp on the floor and move the kennel. It would've looked pretty weird running the urine and berries through a strainer in the shower then rinsing the tarp off. We'd drape it over the rail outside and let it freeze dry. I'm into fast and easy, I'm fat and lazy. Winter kids always took special care, it's why we kept the bucks and does separate unless we wanted to breed, then we stood there and made sure things went we. It happened however, usually a rescue doe. The does with strong motherly instincts would help keep them warm and there's no way on earth one of the Pyres would let one freeze a pyre can raise serious cain that's how Deb learned I was dying in the driveway when the tree hit me. If the mother died or drove them off we'd bring them in for a few days IF we couldn't get them to take a bottle in the barn. Our barn was set up to keep even little ones warm in sub zero temps. Pyres adore babies of any kind and I've seen does nursing a kid that was curled up in his "arms." Frosty The Lucky.
  21. You will know how it turned out when we come to visit - does Robert have fleas? Sent a resume et al package to New York only to be sent back to San Diego to the prospective employer for a 7:00 a.m. Monday interview. Some Navy project. Wish us luck! Robert and Sheila Taylor
  22. Both ingots were tests. The iron ingot landed at 1.5 lbs. We went into it with some doubts and fears so we cautiously started nice and small. No more doubts or fears. We were happy the little burner did the job and we are excited. We have more experiements to do. We have some plans. I am playing with more then one new idea. It is exciting.
  23. Yes, the original NARBs, Kastolite burner blocks, driven by 3/4" Ts. I haven't started another forge and I need to, this forge doesn't work like it should. I'm thinking my next will be 1/8" outlets like Dan's but a really thin block, maybe 3/4" - 1" thick with a zircopax flame face. Frosty The Lucky.
  24. When you say "some" iron about how much? I'm pretty excited. Frosty The Lucky.
  25. Frosty

    New Press Design???

    Structurally I think you'd be better off with early '70s Taco Bell than Mission. Frosty The Lucky.
  26. Dan:The top ingot grey cast and using a graphite clay crucible. You've mentioned bronze here and there, is this your preferred casting alloy? If so, any particular reason for that? Thanks Mike. I am very pleased with the new experiments.
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