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  2. No shop time for me today, but my grandson was working on his hammer control.
  3. I would be afraid of using any heat on it not knowing what metal it is cast from. If you do a low temp solder may work.
  4. First day at the forge in a bit over a month. Hadn't felt like doing anything since making some flowers for a friend's funeral but finally forced myself to do something. Made a new set of hold fasts, one for each anvil, and drive hooks to hang them up on. Not much done but at least it is something to get going again, and the first items I have been pleased with in a long time, although they could be a bit more uniform. Luckily they work great compared to the old ones I made when I started.
  5. I suppose there is an exception to every general rule, and Pnut is correct that a TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled) motor is definitely preferred for longevity. I built the pictured 2x72 grinder in 2006. The motor is a non-enclosed 1.5 HP 120V 3450 RPM capacitor-start fan motor rescued from the attic when we had our central A/C replaced back in 1996. The shaft drive wheel is 4" diameter and rubber covered, the tracking wheel was recently replaced with one from OriginBladeMaker, and my original skateboard wheel platen setup (which never worked well) has been upgraded to OBM's nicely machined platen/wheels, which run smooth and true. Every few months I suck the grinder crap as best I can from inside the motor with a large shop vac, and blow it out with the shop air hose, but that's been it for maintenance for the past 13 years. I used it daily and pretty hard, and it still runs just fine. Because I really would like to have speed control, I'm getting ready to upgrade with a VFD and a new 2HP 3-phase TEFC motor. I also have an accessory tool arm with an 8" rubber covered contact wheel that works really well. I guess my point is don't hesitate to at least temporarily make use of a non-enclosed motor if that's what you have and cost is a factor at the moment. You can always upgrade later as funds permit. That's what worked out best for me.
  6. Uh. . . Yeah. My ribbon burners are driven by Ts. I use thread protectors rather than a flare on my T burners and welded thread protectors to the plenums as through fittings so I can screw any of my T burners to a ribbon to test. All my previously built T burners are stable from stop to stop on my regulator when screwed to a Ribbon burner plenum. The orange dragon's breath has diminished as the refractory, Kastolite 30, cured. You can see the Ts behind the forge body. My insulated mug stayed about there for a good 6 hrs during the meeting. I was drinking Iced tea, the cooler is a little farther back. The outside of the mug didn't get much above room temp that close to the forge. Frosty The Lucky.
  7. investment casting, cool, i have a shell department. they sell that stuff that doesnt need to be in a slurry tank nowadays. how will you be dewaxing? i have burnout oven that i can reclaim my waxes with. Aluminum bronze is tough to weld and super hard, harder than some steels even. great for wear plates. i have large opinions about dewaxing, it can get sketchy. plus the shell needs to be cured a certain man so much to cover! yeah the peeping is great out here too, ive come to feel fine wearing tons of safety gear all day in the heat, that way when you take it off ,it actually gets cooler, even if its 95 out, it feels cool ,compared hahah!
  8. Today
  9. Cool, I have aluminum leggings to go over my jeans and under the apron. Boots, a welding jacket, gloves and facemask will finish off my outfit. I plan on casting Aluminum Bronze using a lost wax process. I'll post photos of the flasks that I have prepped. I still need to burn them out I have a fair bit of experience of small castings (jewelry) in silver and gold. Which is the process I plan on using, sand casting next year. I am glad it is finally cooling off in New England. Wearing all this xxxx xx xxxx in August. The leaves are in peak color.
  10. Not today, I have been working on this table the last couple weeks in my spare time. My wife requested another one and once again gave me the artistic license to do what I wanted in terms of style. I have an idea in mind, so since I woke up early this morning I started on a couple bending forks before making breakfast.
  11. Titanium readily reacts with oxygen at 2190 °F in air, so be sure to keep the forge atmosphere reducing.
  12. In all probability you're wanting to "Die Blank" hinge preforms but I strongly doubt your fly press is anywhere near enough. Cabinet hinges sure but not something 3" on any side from 14 gauge and 12 is WAY out of the question. This isn't a matter of a blade cutting steel, it's something entirely different, shearing. Tolerances between the female and male dies are in the 0.0001" range and how they impact is more critical still. I'm not trying to discourage you but shearing something like you describe is NOT a beginner's project and not trivial for the experienced. I'd LOVE to have a fly press to experiment with and you should explore it to your limits. One step at a time though, less frustration and a faster learning curve that way. Frosty The Lucky.
  13. I got the new blower i hit welding temp no problem i played around with the fuel air mix for awhile one thing i did was get the nozzle red hot im thinking to much fuel.After a few adjustments i got it runnin pretty good and no red nozzle.
  14. A friend of my wife has a casting of jesus on a cross that was broken into three pieces. I believe this is an heirloom. Here are some photos. I'm hoping to get some advice of the best process from putting it back together. I'd hate to just epoxy it. It isn't ferrous (not magnetic). I imagine the melting temp is pretty low. Should I try to braze or solder it? What flux or type of prep work would be the best?
  15. Yesterday
  16. Thank you. I will use D2.
  17. Frosty

    Burners 101

    I know Tim, I'm long past feeling defensive about making mistakes and deeply appreciate when someone points them. Especially when a mistake can make life so much more difficult than necessary for folks just breaking into the craft. You done good Bro. Thanks! Frosty The Lucky.
  18. gadget- copper is a challenge to melt, requires a decent temp of around 2000º f -2100º . that gets it hot enough to flow but not too hot as to cause porosity and other defects. its a lot trickier to melt than bronzes thats for sure, but youll love the way it pours out, it will fill in a similar way to aluminum, but its heavier and has better head pressure when poured. be sure to not disturb teh melt surface and to skim all slag thoroughly. it is MUCH hotter than aluminum whe youre pouring so you wont even be able to stand near the crucible without trousers on. i prefer pouring Al becasue its lighter and lower temp, and still fills really well. but i mostly pour non ferrous alloys.
  19. It's all good. I did buy 99.9% copper ingots but wanted to feel righteously green by recycling aluminum. My rudimentary knowledge suggests it is harder to find and recycle pure copper to recycle than aluminum. I imagine if I did the calculations I would find that the propane etc required to reduce cans was less efficient than buying it. Phil - Mine's is a buckeye grad student...small world... pnut - don't tell the wife, she'll make me wear one all the time.
  20. The bottom is held on by screws. Turn upside-down, remove bottom, insert ashes, replace bottom.
  21. Thanks and yes I do enjoy sharing for sure. Once the teaching facility is up and running I am hoping to do some long distance stuff too. My pleasure. I forge welded on a thin section to reinforce the eye. You can just see the weld seam. JHCC. Great job but I'm not quite sure how it works? I don't want to sound funky.. but is is like a bread box? I mean I don't see any opening to put the ashes in..
  22. I am definitely going to replace the belt once I find a source. The belt I have has a few small cracks but only on one side of the belt. The construction of the belt is interesting it has 2 layers of leather 6" by about 4 foot long bonded together with some type of adhesive or plastic?. The plys each overlap the other by about 2 foot . Since it is made like that I don't think it would completely fail with out showing signs of failure. Right now I am getting close to getting it going and just want to use the belt I have for testing.
  23. that is xxxxxxx amazing jhcc. this thread has been inspiring me to do some ornamental things. unrelated but do any of you guys have experience with making forge welded sockets? i have an order for a chisel and im rather intimidated. i was thinking for stock id use a rr spike with a leaf spring bit but after peaning out the socket end quite a bit i dont feel like i have enough area to work a socket let alone forge weld it. im still struggling with drawing material width ways in general
  24. Sorry Gadget, I did miss that. I have some pictures of my son trying to help me. I usually had to get on him about his shoes.
  25. You'll get appreciable oxidation at forge temps of 2,300+ F (~1,250 C). It won't last forever unprotected*, **. *Note that how you control your forge atmosphere is going to significantly impact how long you get out of a Ti liner. A reducing atmosphere may provide a long life, whereas an oxidizing atmosphere would likely consume a 1mm liner relatively quickly at forge temperatures. **Now that I think about it, you will still have quite a lot of hot nitrogen in your forge no matter what. Without spending much time looking for data, I found an autoignition temperature of somewhere between ~1,472F-2,200F / 800C-1,200C (certain variables can impact this, and I didn't look at the study configurations) for titanium metal in nitrogen gas. In other words, your liner could burn in the nitrogen present in your forge without an additional ignition mechanism. I'm not saying that it necessarily WILL happen, but that it shouldn't be a surprise when it does.
  26. Stuff happens. I think we all knew what you meant. Occasionally making a mistake is normal: it certainly doesn't mean you should stop thinking. I only pointed it out because it's the internet and someone encountering this thread at some point in the future might otherwise pursue a path of extreme frustration.
  27. Daniel interesting that sweet spot of fast enough but slow enough is a difficult one to nail down for sure. is this anything like spherical graphite iron? do you use a % of silicon in this alloy? outside of the dendritic patterns ,what are the forging characteristics of the alloy youre making ? im asking because i dont know too much about the families of iron/steel outside of ccasting them. i only have to deal with the alloy,its flow ,shrinkage, porosity and ductility. i dont know enough about forging to know if this alloy is better or worse in its physical working properties, i do get that its look is beautiful and also probably difficult to homogenize,thanks.
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