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  2. ThomasPowers

    Show me your snakes

    "Holding the live rattle snake in your left hand, compare it to the workpiece in your right hand; adjust till they resemble each other...) For a rasptle snake: See picture with the steps demonstrated above 1. source a cheap/free used farrier's rasp---I don't pay more than US$1 2. draw out the tang and un cut section just before the tang---the file's ricasso 3. shape the head; I don't do the punching till later 4. using a swage or the anvil step and a cross peen hammer star-t curving the body, coarse side out. 5. continue to work the body around using the swage to help the bottom curl while you are curling the top with a hammer. 6. work the edges in till the touch and the body is a cylinder 7. using the postvise and a small pipe wrench adjust the body till the seam is straight 8. Flatten the body a bit if you like. 9. open the post vise jaws several inches and slip the heated snake's head in under the back jaw and over the front jaw. Slip a large section of pipe over the tail and down to near the front vise jaw and use the pipe as a lever to bend the snake into a curve. Reheat the body as needed and flip the snake over and insert it till the previous bend locks under the back jaw and put the pipe on and bend the other way. Repeat as wanted. Flatten/adjust with a wooden or rawhide mallet. 10. punch the facial features. 11. bend tail up; let cool slowly and smooth the tail a bit if needed. I punch the bottle caps with a flat bottomed punch on end grain scrap wood, they should fit loosely on the tail. Leaving room for them to move when shaken bend over the tip of the tail to hold them in place. 12. finish the snake (wax, blo, paint, clear coat, etc leaving the bottle caps alone)
  3. jlpservicesinc

    Any steam hammers available?

    Do tell.. Local find? Still stuck in the logging camp.... Long line logging setup?
  4. jlpservicesinc

    How to forge a flatter.. No swage block used..

    Looks great Hikerjohnson.. Thanks for posting back your example.. That is a mighty fine tool.. did you put your makers mark in?
  5. Boiled linseed oil is a heavily modified linseed oil. It is comprised of linseed oil and stand oil plus a metallic drying agent. (such as lead oxide + 'litharge', or a cobalt salt, etc., etc.). * It does dry. Stand oil, a component of boiled linseed oil. Stand oilis linseed oil which is heated to almost 572 degrees Fahrenheit, (300 C.), for several days in the absence of air. The resultant stand oil/ boiled linseed oil, is very thick and forms an elastic coating. That oil is heavily cross-linked and polymerizes rapidly. I suspect that the non-drying oil, you read about, was essentially plain linseed oil, not boiled linseed oil. The oils, mentioned above, do not dry but are chemically changed, and hardened. SLAG. * boiled linseed oil is NOT edible.
  6. Sharp tungsten

    Any steam hammers available?

    I appreciate your concern Thomas, boilers have the potential to release immense amounts of energy if not properly used. Having said that I am part of a very knowledgeable steam association and we do everything to take all precautions and make sure we run these boilers safely. An old logging donkey. Basically a steam tugger.
  7. jlpservicesinc

    Any steam hammers available?

    sharp tungsten.. I am so happy for you... I am jumping up and down for joy.. This is a life long dream of mine.. so please share as much as you can so I can then live vicariously through you and your exploits.. self contained winch? Off steam shovel maybe?
  8. ThomasPowers

    It followed me home

    Slip a flat washer on and carry on!
  9. ThomasPowers

    Any steam hammers available?

    Free fuel makes all the difference. Having the chops to maintain a boiler is even more impressive. (Got a teenager to feed the fire?) I'll stop worrying that you are biting off more than you can chew...and work on finding you a steam hammer with a clear conscience.
  10. Kandar

    Burners 101

    Ill have some time to tinker with it this weekend. I have some 0.023s an plenty of torch tip file sets so ill see how that goes. I have the new jets setup with the 1/8 nipple threaded for mig tips. They need a little more clean up and run a polish on the ports. Works for engines. Why not burners! Ill be pulling them out to try some flare adjustment. I will get some pics of the flames and different nozzle options. I found a perfect 12 degree mandrel in the scrap yard that is 3 inches wide at the base. Makes nice flares easily. Thanks for any assistance.
  11. I've been smithing off and on since 1993. I learned a lot from the MOB (Mid-ohio Blacksmiths) and Thomas Powers in particular.

    Currently I am doing some work with a reenactor group.

  12. Sharp tungsten

    Any steam hammers available?

    30 bucks or so by the PA state boiler inspector. I have my own sawmill so firewood and sawdust for fuel is free. I'm a CWI and former union boilermaker so maintenance for the little boiler should be manageable.
  13. Today
  14. ThomasPowers

    Any steam hammers available?

    Impressive! How much are the yearly mandatory inspections going to run you on that? (based on where I've lived of course---YMMV)
  15. ThomasPowers

    It followed me home

    Is the interface curved or flat? If flat then a dished thrust washer is not going to do much. If it's curved then a throw out bearing can stand in for the washer.
  16. RogerrogerD

    It followed me home

    This is where I think there should be a washer, but isn’t
  17. Sharp tungsten

    Any steam hammers available?

    Yep, I am sticking with steam. Already acquired a small 15 hp vertical boiler.
  18. RogerrogerD

    It followed me home

    Thanks TP. I intend to do just that, and have mostly got there, apart from the pivot nut and bolt which are tight. I’ll leave it in wd40 over night and try in the morning. Any thoughts on the need for a thrust washer?
  19. marcusb

    Post vice I.D.

    I love that place. It was a long drive when I lived in NW Ohio and even longer now I am in the SE part of the state. I have not been there in over 5 years now! I'm glad to hear they are still up and running.
  20. Sly

    Show me your snakes

    didn't know this was a thing, ok definitely need a how to reference on this someone PM me
  21. ThomasPowers

    Tooling

    I have one. Mine came with just a flat die on it and I had a friend with a lathe make me a tool holder with a 1" hole and a set screw. Unfortunately it's at my other shop---200 miles north (and in a different country from me right now). So I can't get any pictures for a while. I've found a number of RR Bolts and dome headed trailer hitch balls that fit my tool holder and made some S-1 slitting/drifting tools from broken pharmaceutical punches. I use a lot of top swages with the flat die and have even used the "modern" replaceable tips for rock drills for patterning. I have some thick bars of steel on the table as my table has a central hole, Fun to watch a 3" thick 4" wide bar flex when the die hits it! We've done coining with it too. Note I slipped some pipe insulation on the dependent handles to mitigate the THWAP effect when you are working intently on setting things up and the screw unwinds... Can I be so crass as to inquire how much that set you back?
  22. ThomasPowers

    Show me your snakes

    Naw you stick it in a vise and twist it in line with a pipe wrench...I also have several swages I use for doing the curve in, that seems to help me vs using the step on the anvil. I had some old worn light duty pipe wrenches show up in a box of stuff I bought at a garage sale. I had much better ones for plumbing use and when I was trying to line up the seam in the early days I thought of them...
  23. joeli

    Tooling

    Everybody, I just had the good fortune to pick up a #2 Hopkins fly press. I need to make a top tool/die holder for it. I was thinking that having dies with a 1" shank makes the most sense. I'd rather make it once and be done, so in that spirit I'm trying to do some research before I start. I've found very little on the web. I have lathe, mill, and welder so I can pretty much make anything. If anyone out there has this press, I would greatly appreciate seeing a photo or sketch of what they did or have. Thanks everybody, joel-
  24. ThomasPowers

    How to forge a flatter.. No swage block used..

    Very traditional looking piece!
  25. ThomasPowers

    A shed clean up - *sigh*

    I've seen it go both ways; stuff like that scrapped because folks don't understand it. I've also seen folks that think it must be made from gold under all that rust. I remember on auction where a fellow paid top dollar for a mint condition anvil for one that had a crack from the hardy hole to the edge and other evident signs of abuse. He then was paying US$30-40 a piece (early 1990's $$) for some swages that didn't fit that anvil. I asked him about it and he just was going to paint them black and put them by his fireplace....
  26. Boiled linseed oil is basically an oil based paint minus the colouring agents. It dries hard. Plain Linseed oil will get gummy and take a long time to polymerize and harden and so be gummy. Paint is designed to protect. Inside: waxing may be enough---depends on the shop and the climate! Me I live in a dry climate and haven't used anything the last 15 years. The patina already there seems to guard from fresh rusting.
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