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I Forge Iron

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  2. Thanks Steve. We junked a bunch of cars where i used to work so now i have a pile of lug wrenches.
  3. People change; what they want to do changes, shops should be able to change. I keep seeing folks here who want to only build *one* setup and expect it to suffice for the rest of their life. I figure it's more like cars; the car you start out with is probably not the one you will be needing later; shoot I can remember when I switched to pickup trucks and the fun of trying to get one with a bench seat so *both* baby seats could be fastened down on it in an emergency. (And later the minivan, one of the truly great vehicles for families when you can put each child on a different seat for long trips!---with an adjunct pickup for my smithing...) So no tornado? Drat I was going to see if I could get it to do my logo....
  4. Not as bad as anvils and postvises, who could have only one! It would be like only having 4 dozen hammers! I have dug a trench forge in the backyard before to do some forging that required a several foot long heat, no not a sword, a firebox for a Santa Maria replica. Lots of adobe Y1K forges; multiple gassers and my current coal travel forge, soon to be moved out for travelling in favor of the coal forge that came in the hoard. The RR forge awaits the carport to have some room to scare the neighbors...Postvises---5 mounted, 1 travel set up, 1 getting ready to be mounted under the carport and 3 leaning against the wall...(one Large, one Robust, one 200+ years old)
  5. That makes sense, thanks. (the temporary pad and dog head hammer part, not the tornado!)
  6. Ok; I'll work on getting a tornado over there so you can rebuild to suit... (I used to live in OKC, started smithing in the backyard of a house originally built as a shack in the great depression from railroad packing crates. Back in the early 1980's...) I'd get your dog head hammer(s) and experiment with the height by adding a pad of plywood, 2x6s or 4x4s---I have one postvise with a layer of 4x4s in front of it for greater umph when working at it. When you decide what works best for you; adjust the anvil to suit---and maybe keep your pad handy...
  7. Yes, No, Maybe depending on information you have not provided. For one thing; is it your belief that every bed frame made all over the world by hundreds of different manufacturers over the last 100+ years used the same alloy? Having worked with several frames; I can say they did not work similarly. Some were definitely higher in carbon content that others. What did the spark testing indicate when compared with say automotive spring and a file?
  8. Good idea, only I already have my "smithy".
  9. Build a dirt floor smithy. Set anvil deeper. Excavate a section in front of the anvil and add/subtract dirt until you are at the correct height for what you want to do/use that day.
  10. I've been doing some hot metal pounding and have realized I pretty consistently strike heavy at the 6 o'clock point on my hammer. Which obviously means my anvil is too high for me. Right now it's at 32 1/2". I get reasonably consistent strikes on the chisel table, which is approximately 3/4" lower than the face of the anvil.. Okay, no problem.................just put a piece of 3/4" plywood on the floor in front of my anvil and see if that corrects the problem. If so, I'll take the anvil off my stump, flip the stump and take 3/4" off the bottom. But............................................I've read where many knife makers prefer their anvils face to be higher (some I've read have said as much as 4" higher) than for typical blacksmithing. Since bladesmithing is my ultimate goal with this "journey", I could just start over on a new stump. But wait..........I also want to do typical blacksmithing projects. I have neither the room nor the money for a second anvil. And on top of that, I have used and really want a dogs-head hammer to do my bevel work on knives and that means the face of the anvil will need to be lowered. Get's kind-a compilated! So what's a feller to do?
  11. Today
  12. I got a new bed frame and my old one is sitting in my basement. Is it good steel for knife making?
  13. JHCC

    Burners 101

    I got a call once from someone who was being offered my old job and wanted to know if I had any recommendations. The first words that came out of my mouth were "Run away screaming." You LISTEN to them.
  14. Bit by bit, and grit by grit.
  15. wow how do you polish your knife to a mirror finish
  16. Not sure how well that hold down will work. I have seen some big hold downs made to work in a hardy hole, but with you rectangular holes that would he some big stock to work. If you search around a bit there are a couple examples of hold downs that were made with pipe clamps that might work well in this case. Of course, you could always make a chain hold down. (I used mine a lot before a beginner destroyed the chain with a bad miss hit. Haven’t bothered to fix it yet.) Lots of options, David
  17. Everything as skill, all tools are is highly refined dirt and all they can do on their own is return to the soil. It's the clever monkeys with thumbs that do everything else. Don't sweat it, this is fun and none of us were born knowing this or heck any stuff. More than ONE forge!?!? <GASP!> Welcome to the club. Frosty The Lucky.
  18. Anyone every try making tongs from lug wrenches?
  19. I just worry; I used to have a beautiful bronze wrench I'd picked up at a fleamarket to make knife fittings from. Then I read up on Berylliosis and got rid of it!
  20. Hmm; I just got to wondering about making some tongs from lug wrenches...Saturday at the scrapyard I may pick up several and see what I can do...
  21. You could probably get paid even. A 6 pack of beer at the FD might get you notice when the fire's out. Frosty The Lucky.
  22. Hahah well I definitely think it’s skill mostly, it was only the first chance I’ve had to heat and beat steel! Which was great, I just knew from what I was experiencing there was something I had been missing and such why I’m here now. My original design had intended to be more framed with the angle iron (With a notch front and back for laying stock across) but I had no understanding to why until afterwards seeing some of the coal forges being run. This is an easy enough mod which I intend to do. I’m also going to procure some good coal from a nearby farrier supplier, this definitely seems more suited to coal, I’m sure I can figure out a way to mod to work better with charcoal, am glad I’ve got that direction now thanks to you all. Definitely makes sense and probably why it felt like I had to dig deeper down since I was cooling higher with too much air flow. I have an air bleed hole in my supply line that I need to introduce a gate to reduce/redirect how much air is going through and hopefully having a better Fuel:Air ratio. I also think I’m going to try your JABOD design, in the background of my forge you can see there’s a movable wooden crate which I think may work wonders. This way I’ll have a coal forge and a charcoal forge. *EDIT* Thought I should mention also I booked a blacksmithing 101 class at a local school in September which I’m looking forward to now! Thanks for the encouragement there.
  23. If you show up every time there is a structure fire with some trashcans wanting to scrounge charcoal from the remains; I'd bet that pretty soon you would be on a list somewhere too...
  24. Frosty

    Burners 101

    No but I have been asked by guys having to do my old job. If they're not one of the reasons I left I usually help. . . a little. Is she trying to follow the directions for new software? They just LOVE telling you all the things a "feature" is good for without one word about how to do anything with it. I have a pair of wireless ear buds and in 3 pages of "instructions", not ONE WORD about how to turn them on. Frosty The Lucky.
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