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  2. Right... I carved a hallow on my rail iron anvil. I imagine the lathe is just good for checking run out.
  3. Today
  4. Two thoughts: (1) seems reasonable to run a regulator so perhaps we’d end up with a more reasonable hole size at, e.g., 5 psi; and (2) is the idea with a long tube that you are using the length to create a pressure drop, or that the length conditions the flow in a desirable way?
  5. Yesterday
  6. G-son

    Burners 101

    Thankyou, that's interesting.
  7. Sooty

    Fly press

    Very late to this thread but I have a S & B fly press with threaded hole in the ram. I borrowed a range of 7/8 bolts from a fastener supplier with different threads as I didn’t have room to use a thread gauge and didn’t want to disassemble. One fitted so I returned bolts got its thread name 7/8 coarse ..... can’t remember rest. Drew up a tool holder with a threaded end and 1” hole with locking bolt had it machined. Works a treat the tool holder cost about 2/3 what I paid for fly press but made it usable. Working on tools now and a stand for press. Cheers
  8. Interesting. I'm thinking that the internal thread means you need to keep that mostly as is, you can't grind it down to reduce how much it affects the air flow past it. The type in the first picture would probably be fine no narrow down quite a bit. Not sure how much that would matter?
  9. That's good to know, was pretty sure I was on the right track, just fishing for a trick I hadn't heard of! My anvils are dead flat, as they shoud be in a professional architectural shop! (poke poke!) If I want to hammer over a hollow I use the swage block. I do need the entire length very straight. I've cut the rough length to +2" oversize. The rail sections are between 6 and 10 feet long, and this is for a very precise installation, despite the rough looking material. Should have said that the bars run horizontally, thus the longer lengths (not 36" balusters). That's interesting! You win the prize for most helpful. Will try that tomorrow. Thanks all! I should add that my apprentice went and got himself a job with lower pay but more regularity off the farm. Teenagers!
  10. In the interest of full transparency, I admit that it is possible to use a mere hole--if it is small enough--with a very high pressure jet to do similar work to the gas jets I recommend. There is know free lunch, however; the hole needs to be about .004" at full cylinder pressure to run a 1/4" burner; That size orifice will plug closed from impurities in the propane before you can finish half a five gallon tank.
  11. Finally got around to forge something! The scroll(and everything else) is pretty bad, but I had a nice even taper going. I was supposed to make a nail but SQUIRREL! And all of a sudden it's a crummy coathanger... http://imgur.com/7omItIf
  12. As someone starting out; why don't you go with a relatively inexpensive commercially available hammer until you learn what works best for you and then move up to a custom one that meets your criteria. I still have the hammer I started with, a fleamarket find for US$2; it's on it's third or fourth handle now of course it's been in use for 38 years now by me and whatever the original owner(s) put on it. Note too that hammer "fads" are common in smithing---remember the swedish crosspeen craze?---after a while or when the next fad comes along the previous hammers can often be sourced used at a fraction of their original selling price. (My swedish cross peen was $20 as I recall.)
  13. Pr3ssure San, There are several threads that cover the subject of breaking up solid fuel. At least one of them posted within the last 6 or 8 months. Glenn has posted some salient advice, in those threads. A Google search will find them out for you, if you put "I forge iron" in the search string with your search terms. Herr, SLAG.
  14. Speaking of breaking up the coal. Anyone have a good solid way to break up coal, not one piece at a time? I'm finding it to be a pain in the butt to break it up but it's worth it in the end because it cokes up better and I can keep better control of my fire. Since I'm scrounging for coal off the tracks at the moment I'm mainly finding baseball, softball or bigger sized chunks. Their are smaller pieces but it's just quicker to go for the big pieces.
  15. Mr. Powers, et al., Permit me to add the following 'trivia' to this very informative thread .Eating beef was prohibitively expensive in Europe until the early 1700's. Feeding livestock during, winter months was reserved for work animals, milking animals etc. So beef generally were slaughtered in the autumn. These young animals were the size of dogs, and rarely larger. Viscount, Sir Charles Townshend, ("Turnip Townshend"), advocated feeding cows with the addition of turnips, to the standard rotation of wheat, barley, & clover. This was done during the winter months. So slaughter animals became larger and turnips were cheap. Beef became less expensive for the commoners, and populations grew. SLAG.
  16. Why that one? If you want a hammer that costs over 100 USD, why not a Brian Brazeal style hammer from the Fiery Furnace Forge. I forget their names, but they are members here. As for me, I wasn’t sure if this would stick. I went the less expensive route. Left to right: 3lb Tractor Supply 19? USD, Irwin 2.5 lb from Lowe’s 20? USD, 48oz ball peen garage sale 50 cents, angle peen that I picked up for a quarter at a yard sale, another 3lb Tractor Supply cross peen 19? USD. The order of highest to lowest use flows left to right as well. The garage and yard sale hammers were just rusty old heads. The Irwin 2.5 lb cross peen had a composite handle that felt odd. The Tractor Supply hammer handles were too thin A neighbor has a lot of Osage Orange on his place. I got wood from one of the trees and cut the limbs to about 28 inch sections, split them, and put them up in a dry spot for a little over a year. i am still trying to find what feels like an ideal shape and thickness for me. At the moment I prefer the feel of the one second from the left
  17. It's pretty recently that Beef became the Top of the Meat pile here in the USA; historically pigs were the common meat producers being easy to raise and cheap as well. Not to mention easy to preserve as sausage, bacon, etc. Medievally the cow was generally for milk used for cheese and butter and producing Oxen for traction (plows, wagons, etc). Peasants usually made use of small game as the large game, like deer were often controlled by rather savage Game Laws reserving them for folks higher on the socioeconomic ladder. (Even small game might be restricted but was easier to poach and hide.) Note that keeping a pig in the city was still fairly common pre "modern times" and my uncle even kept one in Fort Smith in the 1960's in his small back yard. Feeding them on forrest mast in Medieval times was often a right codified in local laws.
  18. How straight does it need to be? I used to straighten out the 12 foot long bent bar stock for the CNC screw machines. Anywhere from .0625"-.625" using a small lathe. By flexing past the yield point it as it rotated I could get the bars arrow straight most of the time, or really close on the bigger diameters. The small stuff, up to say .125" I would extend about two feet out of the collet, grab the bar with my right hand and turn the lathe on speed varied on alloy, diameter, etc... I would grip the bar in such a way that it made a kink as I slid my hand down the length from the collet out. Once that was straight, I'd pull another two feet out and repeat. With heavier stock I would get the bend pulled out enough where the end wobbles an inch or so, then just push it off center as it rotated. Repeat as necessary. Once you get the hang of it it went pretty smoothly. With rusty stock you would push with a chunk of plastic, or wood instead of your hand.
  19. Thank you Jclonts. I've got a 20' stick of 316 1" sch 40 sitting out back (with no idea where or why I got it). I'll be ordering some W1 promptly. Gonna blatantly copy your method.
  20. Aged air dried beef is delicious and pricey for sure. Beef was reserved for the rich during medieval times I thought. Commoners only had game occasionally unless I'm wrong. I'm sure you would know Thomas. Pnut (Mike)
  21. Hire help; the proverbial highschool kid... The machinery to straighten stock automatically is generally too expensive for small shop use.
  22. I've been amazed at how many people still believe that rotten meat urban legend. When I get hit with it at a medieval demo I usually ask if spices were cheap back then to make it cost effective to use. "Oh no they were worth their weight in silver and gold" I am often told. "So, they would use many times the cost of buying fresh meat to cover the taste of rotting meat?" The logic still escapes many. I wonder how many of them have paid a premium for properly aged meat at high end restaurants...
  23. Irondragon, that was my plan. I have an electric blower so it will just be a matter of turning a switch. Also if i need to fix anything in my vents it will be easier to let the fire die. I know most of the coal in this area is anthracite and it has a shale appearance, which if memory serves is anthracite. jlp, that coal has been in my basement for i would bet close to 80 years. There was tile, plastic, styrofoam, insulation and whole bunch of other mean and nasty debris on the bench there next to me,(sorry Arlo Guthrie took over for a second) the water also helped the smaller pieces come to the top. That layer of coal was about an 1 1/2 deep. Then came the sifting. At least another small bucket full. That pile of coal and the barn were the 2 deciding factors when i bought this place.
  24. IFC. This was what I was looking at. BB there is still lots of good useable coal in that barrel half.. Well that is unless it's really is mainly stones and they were just colored by the coal washings. leaves, twigs, grass really any other carbon source is not a problem.. Small rocks and such really for general forge work need not be a problem as it's a lot easier to clean the stuff out when slag/clinker forms on the bottom of the firepot. I would start burning the dirty stuff first thus pooling the rocks and such as clinker in the bottom of the forge and then when I noticed the air throwing up clinker to the metal. Clean the fire and add back in the cleaned coal. This way you are not wasting any coal and the fire now with smaller pieces of coal will be hotter and more intense and clean. I do this even with soft coal that gets shipped with hard coal in it.. Which does happen from time to time.
  25. If you dip eggs in mineral oil they'll stay good for about a year without refrigeration. Our ancestors forgot more than we'll ever learn about living in synch with our planet Pnut (Mike)
  26. I suggest breaking the large pieces into about acorn or pea size. It will burn better in the forge. Anthracite coal requires a constant air blast to keep burning.
  27. You do not need the entire length perfectly straight. Just straighten out most of the curve so the pieces can be stored. Then cut what length you need and finish straightening that one length. Easier to handle that way.
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