Binesman

Ty frosty that puts it around a #56. Do you happen to know the mathematical formula?

It will be a T for but I didn't think that mattered for the formula does it? My apologies for not mentioning it in the start as I didn't think it made a dif.

I know there is a formula for this. and if someone could please give me the formula I would greatly appreciate it. I am making a new forge it will use 1" NA burners. What size oriface do I need to drill for them to take 600 cubic inches to forge welding temp (under the assumption the forge is properly built and insulated). Thank You.

that's what you are aiming for. If you have everything set for a nice neutral when you get to temp you will see very little as far as flames.

yes you are not drawing enough oxygen someone like mikey or frosty would be better at recommended a possible solution with your set up. My recommendation is to just build a T burner following the directions on here. it will work for you as is it just won't work to the best parameters. As for the dragons breath having large billowing wisps is an indicator you are running rich because you are not getting full combustion in the chamber.

your flame looks a smidge on the green side to me in the photo with it heated and running at 8 psi. The photo at 4psi looks a lot green but I have a feeling that is because of the low pressure stopping you from drawing as much air. and you have a good bit of dragons breath so yeah you're running rich. can I see a photo of the burner please? I know you said it was a riel style but there's a lot of different design's. Also did you drill the orifice or did you use a migtip? and what size?

I've taken to calling them Z bricks not sure if that is there actual name. They are just a softbrick made from zirc instead of mulite. I've only used a few but they seem to work as well if not better then the K series. However I do not believe the price difference is worth it. I pay about 4.50 to 6 for K26 bricks(depending on who has them) I pay 9 to 15 per brick for zirc. http://www.ktrefractories.com/Zircon-Bricks.cfm

ask pottery stores for zircopax

https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/64996-building-a-firebrick-forge/ i wouldn't cement them they just need pressure. The video will show you one way to obtain it. however mikey is correct once it's together put a thin layer of refractory like kastolite or satanite then coat it in a kiln wash and you are good to go. (assuming you are using morgan K series brick and i also thing the new Z bricks that are being designed would work)

If you are going to build with firebrick, use morgan k series brick and apply pressure on all 3 axis hight width length. Softfirebrick will crack even k series from thermal cycling pressure will keep it from falling appart.

I use a mixture of roughly 70%zirconium 25%kaolin 5%boron don't know what the final cost is but it's pretty cheap.

Ive purchased from this maker before. They are good burners. However they have an issue below 8 to 9 psi withback burning. Thats what you are getting. Simply turn up your regulator a little.

Sorry I misread. I thought you stated you were still loosing preasure while in the water bath. Not that it had solved the issue. Construction all looks good. And the forge should run fine. So that means your problem is in the burner. Ive yet to make a ribbon burner so cant help a lot there.

here's the no science answer. You turn on your tank it runs good but it then freezes. Once it freezes it don't run good no more. bigger tank less cold more good.

I couldn't even begin to calculate btu etc. I get about 12 to 14 hours of yellow heat from a 20# tank (that's running the full 4.7gallons when I empty a tank it is empty)