pike3e

Does anyone know what the Bull Hammers are selling for in the US? Any up for sale at this time that you know about?

it is likely not the oil. Originally from the factory they are set so that when the treadle is let totally off the dies touch. You can work around this if you want by setting the linkage between the hand lever on the side and the treadle to slightly engage the treadle even when it is totally let off. You basically find out how much engagement you want and then drill a hole in the linkage and attach it there.

you can use nickel 200, which is basically pure nickel but it does not harden so it is not great for a blade edge but many use it with mild steel to produce a pattern welded steel for blade fittings or the outer layers of san mai blades, but as Steve said, nickel coins would not work for anything mix involving steel.

Does not appear to be any damage. I forged some 416/1095 laminate today and everything seemed fine. Thankfully.

That looks great. Any videos of it in action forging?

I took the top off and banged it with a wood block and it didnt move. I took the bottom ring off and this caused the ram and the ring to drop down. I was able to tap the ring off with a brass hammer. I then removed the stuck die with a drift and some hard hammer blows and then put it all back together. Tapping harder from the top would have worked just as well but I wasnt sure how hard to hit.

I have a 55lb striker hammer (anyang style), with the top die stuck in the up position. I had a stuck die and was hammering out the key and it must have moved a bit and when I turned the hammer on the tup is stuck inside the body of the hammer. Anyone know how to get it back down?

Tia Goo has a video that describes how he makes charcoal from wood scraps the same way coal is used to make coke. His forge fire is made with char coal and the green wood is slowly worked into the center. By the time it has gotten to the hottest part of the forging fire, the volatiles in the wood have gassed off and the char coal is burned to produce the heat needed to forge. Seemed to work fine for him but I am sure there is a learning curve.

I like it but I would be very hesitant to ht an unknown steel that is going to be hit with a power hammer. lets just pretend that it is an air hardening steel that has a bunch of stress cracks that you cant see after quench. What part would you be comfortable with flying at your body at about the power hammer anvil's level?

He is or was a member here.

Your entire first post is misleading. Do you tell your customers you only work for 12 dollar per hour but are really at 65ish? I have no problem with any amount large or small that someone charges but either be honest or dont talk about it, dont waste our time with xxxxxxxx. This post is rude and pushing the limits on treating each other with respect and kindness. Just because you do not understand a thing, does not mean its evil intent. Why not ask, rather than accuse.

​Of course I know I cant run the power hammer on the shop vac or chop saw motor. My point was that many things are advertised as much higher hp than truly are capable of. Home depot is not a snake oil salesman, this is just they way these products are marketed across the board. So I understand that your calculations of true hp are correct, if somebody takes your "horespower is horesepower" statement as straightforward they are not getting a true understanding of what is actually being presented in the market place.

I dont know but I have this Chop Saw advertised at 5.5 horse http://www.congresstools.com/catalog/categories/ and this shop vac at 5hp in my shop http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-12-gal-5-PHP-Wet-Dry-Vacuum-WD1270/202554972 I also have a 55lb stirker power hammer with a 5hp electric motor that beats at about 240 hits per minute and the machine's total weight is about 2700 pounds. Should I be able to run that hammer on the shop vac or saw 5hp motors????? I think this proves the point that horse power is all over the map.

You are correct their is a small hollow on the back side. You are smart to learn on mono steel because the two layer method is fairly difficult due to the two layers having different properties after heat treat. Basically it often warps like a banana and you have to hammer it straight again, you will see Japanese smiths cold forging both before and after heat treat. I have not played with it enough to get proficient and there are a few blade blanks in the woods by my house that got thrown there after actually watching the steel bend after I took it out of the quench. someday I hope to get around to working with it more...