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I Forge Iron

Cross Pein

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Walpole, MA - USA
  • Interests
    Beekeeping, Gardening (vegetable), Homebrewing

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  • Location
    SE Massachusetts
  • Interests
    Beekeeping, Gardening, Homebrew
  • Occupation
    Engineer

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  1. You need to take your time. Since you don't have a lot of cash, if you rush it you will likely be throwing what you do have away. Read these forums and figure out what you want. I personally think on-line is the worst place to get an anvil. I got my last one from the classifieds in the local weekly paper. 168# Peter Wright for $200. He was only asking $150, but I had to give him more - I gotta sleep at night. I still feel like I stole it! Lots of anvils in barns just waiting for the yard sale. Many older folks just want to clear stuff out. You do need to know what to look for - reading these forums can teach you that.
  2. I can't give you any advice on fixing the cracks, I'm not a welder. There are plenty of those here and they will help with that. But I find myself in the opposite predicament. I have a rivit forge and want a firebox so I can get a deeper fire. I use fire brick now to get deeper coals. I do strongly suggest that you line it with clay. I need a deeper fire to cut down on the oxidation. Bill
  3. Try this Dave: http://www.trick-tools.com/Bench_Grinder_Attachments_28
  4. About the photos, that seems to be happening more and more these days - I guess it is unavoidable with smartphones flipping them the way the do. I just learned a net trick - only know that it works with Win7 - it may work with other OS's - not sure. Anyways Control & Alt & the arrow keys will flip the whole screen. Helps with the sideways, upside down photo viewing. Oh and nice anvil, how big is it? Bill
  5. Torbo, That looks very specialized, what do you use it for? Bill
  6. Thanks Biggreypig - I did not know those were available. I think I can work with that. Bill
  7. Herb, Where do you get the grate? I have a rivet forge that looks identical to the one posted in this thread, but the grate is shot. Rotted out between the top flange and the cast pan. If I had a lathe - I would be golden. BTW. I lined mine with ground up clay from a bag of Speedi-dri. And yes, use fire brick to make the height for the coal or else you will burn a lot of coal. Bill Bill
  8. I think it is cool that you want to help your nephew. I think you should avoid a new anvil. Read the forums here as much as you can, you will find many threads on Junkyard and RR rail anvils. You will also find many, many threads where someone new wants to know about making advanced things like swords. You should read these so you have realistic expectations. Not knowing your nephew, it is hard to give good advice. I can tell you, as an older newbie, I have two anvils. They are both Peter Wright anvils. One is about 100# and one is 167#. I paid $200. for each. The smaller of the two came from Ohio (ebay) and the shipping to MA was $75. The heavier one came from about 1/2 mile from my house and was found in the local classifieds in the paper. The Peter Wrights are excellent, but loud. Also recommended: Hey Budden, Trenton, Fisher. From what I understand (never used one) the Fisher is an excellent and quiet anvil. Read threads on these used anvils and learn what to look out for and you will be much better equipped to get him something worth having. If you get a good one, you can always recoup your investment later if his interest fades. What are you planning for a forge? Hope this helps, no one else can do your legwork, but we can help steer you in the right direction - just need more details.
  9. Thomas, I am not sure this is quite right. It may be, but last year I visited the Saugus Iron Works - here in Massachusetts. http://www.nps.gov/sair/index.htm It is a National Historic Site and well worth the visit if you find yourself in the Boston area. - But this one is not in the NW. Bill
  10. New England Blacksmiths has what looks like a good deal to me. I am assuming you are looking for a firepot - not an entire forge. http://www.newenglandblacksmiths.org/membership.htm Closer to you! Bill Edit for clarification - it is the membership page - the fire pot is close to the bottom.
  11. Being in a hurry, my advice probably won't apply much to you, but I got my last anvil from the classified ads in the weekly newspaper. The ad read "large anvil in good condition". I called and asked about it - Its pointy on one end and has a hole in it. He did not know what he had. I picked up a 165# Peter Wright in good shape (1 chip on edge) for $200. That is cheap here in Massachusetts - and no shipping - this anvil was 2 miles from my house. Old people have old stuff and are not always internet savvy. As far as I know I was the only one to respond. My advice is to get something to get you by, then wait for a good deal. Good luck, Bill
  12. How about this http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/improvement/interior/1275121 If the link doesn't work, Google Heat Recovery Ventilator. Bill
  13. That must be the one I need. Is the control on the other side? I've been looking for the hammer control for years. :)
  14. In the USA, I don't think it is illegal. I see machines that squish pennies and press something on them at almost every tourist trap I visit. My wife collects them. (The pennies, not the machines.) Bill
  15. So I can't help but wonder, if you were to heat the finished piece to 'near AC3' and let it cool inside a strong magnetic field, would it retain the grain alignment and become a magnet? If so, you wouldn't even need to start with a magnet.
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