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I Forge Iron

Pault17

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Abit below Raleigh NC
  • Interests
    God, my wife, my family, blacksmithing, whittling

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  • Location
    Wake County, NC
  • Biography
    Father of 9, Husband of ONE
  • Interests
    shooting, banging iron, flying kites
  • Occupation
    Home Inspector

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  1. This is from Frosty, and it is very true: "folk learn faster and remember more if they're entertained by the lesson, make them laugh and they never forget."
  2. I was browsing through some Aspery videos and watched his leafing hammer tutorial. I had a piece of 7/8 square mystery hardenable steel and decided to try a viking-style design. I used about 4.5 inches of the bar to get a just-over 1 lb hammer. I upset the striking end to 1-inch forged to shape. I triple annealed then tried hardening in vege-oil. The hammer got hard, but a file stuck a little. I started over again and quenched in water, and the file skated like glass. I blacksmith-tempered with a hot drift and got the face and the been to bronze/straw. I repurposed an old handle that had broken off, and finished with tung oil. The handle is shorter, but I favor the shorter handles anyway.
  3. Pault17

    Spark Tests

    I will try this again. I was putzing around in the "shop" and decided to do spark-test videos of several known metals. I did wrought, mild, 1045, 1075, 1095, A2, D2, H13, and 4140. When I get a chance, I will try to add some more metals. The clips are all 15-25 seconds, and I cut out the sound (you can make your own crunchy, screeching, grinding noises). If I do more, I will probably switch to "phone orientation" to get the whole spark pattern, and do it in front of a dark background. Admins, I searched but couldn't find anything like this. Please feel free to move or delete. thanks, Paul A2 - Mild - D2 - 4140 - 1095 - 1045 - 1075 -
  4. Play on a fishing theme. The simple one was my first. The less simple was next, then, and then. The skeletons are mild scrap and the heads n tails are sheet stainless (scrap, again)
  5. I fabbed a quick stand from a bunch of 4x6 wood scrap. My youngest is modeling for me the stand survived a long day of beating by a bunch of 10-13 year-olds TommyVee, I sorta envy your cone mandrel. that is one thing I have a shortage of - cones of any sort
  6. This is a very interesting thread. I have long believed that an anvil does not have to look like something Wile-E-Coyote needs to drop - I actually came by that belief from the wonderful folks here on IFI. Here are a few that I have handy to use or loan out. This is just a 20+lb block I found in the woods. This one has three smooth faces and three with shapes This one is what it looks like. The hammer head is a 10-lb with both faces ground flat. kids don't hurt it This one I made from an article I saw more than 10 years ago. The round bar is 1-5/8 hardenable mystery metal This one is my oldest pride and joy, called the Frankanvil. The heel is RR tie plate. The horn is 2.25 inch round. The body is a hydraulic pump body that was in a scrap pile. The machinest who gave it to me said it is solid through-hardened D2 with 5/8 tapped holes all over the place. It is from a caterpillar place. I made it look like an "anvil" because it was useful that way. total weight is just over 100lb.
  7. I've been a member of the triangle (central raleigh/durham area) part of NCABANA for about 15 years. Unless things have changed, we have monthly meetings at the shop at the state fair grounds in raleigh. on the second saturday of the month. The state fair in Raleigh, this year, will be October 13-23 Lots of fun and a great bunch of men and lady-smiths.
  8. coming from someone who works in a small part of the garage, that looks beautifully enviable.
  9. Playing around one evening, practicing punching, drifting and whatnot. Steel is mild, the drift used was a slightly sanded (taking the sharp edges off) 3.5 inch concrete cut nail, handle is a shard from a broken axe handle. I even wedged the handle into the head
  10. Frosty, mixing eating tool tookas wipe with the "taste" at the end was just a bit poor in taste
  11. hey, lil brother. have you fired things up yet?

     

  12. Thanks Thomas, I just sent Tod Amon a question to that effect. we shall see. When we do get the thing built, I will be sure and post pictures. paul
  13. Thanks Thomas and Frosty. I will put that info to the designers. This forge is a demo forge being built at the local state fair grounds, and I don't want it to be screwed up from the beginning. paul
  14. Good Morning. I have looked for this particular question but couldn't find an answer. I am a worker bee part of a group that is in the process of outfitting a "demo" forge. The plan is to have two side-draft forges back to back. the table will be something akin to 4' by 8', with the chimneys in the center. My suggestion was to run two separate flues up through the roof, in a single chimney enclosure (for curb appeal and all that). The option that is currently the plan is to have both flues connect to shared/common flue. I really don't like the idea of combining the flues - drafting issues, back-drafting, CO, and all that. My problem is that I am a worker. educated maybe, but without credentials. I have already sent a message to the head blacksmith at the JCC folk school, but am impatient (mostly due to time constraints). Can anybody supply sound reasoning or documentation for the need for separate flues, or am I making a mountain out of a mole hill? thanks, Paul
  15. Yes, the stand will go. I am working on a rivet-forge styled coal forge, and will integrate the blower into the design. nothing fancy, just more portable and large base-d. I am thrilled. this was another thing I have been looking for, with a little more hunger, since I went to JC Campbell a few years ago.
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