-
Posts
104 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Profile Information
-
Gender
Male
-
Location
Oakland Ca.
Converted
-
Location
Oakland Ca.
-
Biography
I have been a welder for 15 years last year got into blacksmithing
-
Interests
motorcycles,scuba and metal
-
Occupation
welder
Recent Profile Visitors
The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.
-
Yes I misspoke I meant petroleum based hydrocarbons
-
The fact that industry is making non petroleum based quenching fluids for improved worker safety makes me think that oil based quenching fluids can effect you in a bad way. One msds I checked states " may cause respiratory or other pulmonary effects following repeated inhalation". Now that being said I work in a refinery and huff a lot of oil fumes and mist on a daily basis. I don't like adding to it at home. But judging from some of the responses I sound like a know nothing crackpot.
-
Thanks stormcrow I do like the canola oil for the lack of hydrocarbons
-
Thanks that seems to be 22 cenastokes @40 deg. C. I will see if I can covert to kinamatic for reference And sorry I put it in the sword section because that is what I am working on. Figured go to the source for info. Centistokes and kinamatic is basically same.
-
Hello i am upgrading my 25" quench tank to a much bigger 50" tank. I have been using veggie oil with some atf to try to keep the flames down. I have had good results with this combo. I have broken a few blades and found a nice small crystalline structure. But going to the new tank I was thinking about upgrading to a actual proper quench oil. But before I buy 15 gallons of the stuff (not cheep). I was wondering what most folks are using here. I have looked at the stickies under sword, knife and heat treatment they usually just say oil. Now being I work in a refinery I have a little knowledge about oil (very little). The research I have done so far shows a wide spread in viscosity for quenchent oil. I will list below. All will be normalized at 40 deg c /104 deg f. And shown in kinamatic viscosity for reference 10% brine - .85 isodur 160 - 10 isomax 166 - 12.5 chevron 70 - 16.5 isodur 220 - 19 isorapid 227 - 24 hydrolic oil - 30 vegetable oil- 34 trans (atf) - 35.5 isorapid 459 - 49 sae 30 - 88 so I found a great spread on quench fluid viscosity and added some of the other things people seem to quench with. I know quench oil is made from a base oil with a anti- oxidation addictive. I am tempted to stay with the veggie oil as I know it well. The real question is how many folks around here are using quenching oil verses something else. Hopefully I have done enough research on my own so I don't get yelled at for asking questions Regards otto
-
Wow, That's an amazing looking blade. What is the finish on the blade?
-
Looks like that beast would cut through just about anything. Nice work
-
I was thinking the same thing. I may change it to a solid color. No I don't. Let me tell you swinging a 10 pound hammer and holding the stock kicked my butt
-
I was thinking light cutlass or wakizashi type blades. Not sure how the hilt would evolve single handed I would think.
-
I like the what if part of this. I would think that if swords stayed in fashion a short slashing blade would evolve. Easy to carry in cars and around busy towns.
-
Small Homemade Helve Hammer
otto replied to Ed_Steinkirchner's topic in Power Hammers, Treadle Hammers, Olivers
That looks great. I have been thinking of building something that size. How does it work on 1/4" stock? I mostly do knives and small stuff and have been looking at hydrolic presses but think the speed of a power hammer would be better. -
Yeah after I finished it I thought it would have been handy on my last boar hunt.
-
Haha. I suppose so.
-
Third knife is comelete... ten layers with a maple handle
otto replied to HEAP of JEEP's topic in Knife Making
Looks good. I got some scout 2 springs that need to become something