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I Forge Iron

otto

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oakland Ca.

Converted

  • Location
    Oakland Ca.
  • Biography
    I have been a welder for 15 years last year got into blacksmithing
  • Interests
    motorcycles,scuba and metal
  • Occupation
    welder

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  1. Yes I misspoke I meant petroleum based hydrocarbons
  2. The fact that industry is making non petroleum based quenching fluids for improved worker safety makes me think that oil based quenching fluids can effect you in a bad way. One msds I checked states " may cause respiratory or other pulmonary effects following repeated inhalation". Now that being said I work in a refinery and huff a lot of oil fumes and mist on a daily basis. I don't like adding to it at home. But judging from some of the responses I sound like a know nothing crackpot.
  3. Thanks stormcrow I do like the canola oil for the lack of hydrocarbons
  4. Thanks that seems to be 22 cenastokes @40 deg. C. I will see if I can covert to kinamatic for reference And sorry I put it in the sword section because that is what I am working on. Figured go to the source for info. Centistokes and kinamatic is basically same.
  5. Hello i am upgrading my 25" quench tank to a much bigger 50" tank. I have been using veggie oil with some atf to try to keep the flames down. I have had good results with this combo. I have broken a few blades and found a nice small crystalline structure. But going to the new tank I was thinking about upgrading to a actual proper quench oil. But before I buy 15 gallons of the stuff (not cheep). I was wondering what most folks are using here. I have looked at the stickies under sword, knife and heat treatment they usually just say oil. Now being I work in a refinery I have a little knowledge about oil (very little). The research I have done so far shows a wide spread in viscosity for quenchent oil. I will list below. All will be normalized at 40 deg c /104 deg f. And shown in kinamatic viscosity for reference 10% brine - .85 isodur 160 - 10 isomax 166 - 12.5 chevron 70 - 16.5 isodur 220 - 19 isorapid 227 - 24 hydrolic oil - 30 vegetable oil- 34 trans (atf) - 35.5 isorapid 459 - 49 sae 30 - 88 so I found a great spread on quench fluid viscosity and added some of the other things people seem to quench with. I know quench oil is made from a base oil with a anti- oxidation addictive. I am tempted to stay with the veggie oil as I know it well. The real question is how many folks around here are using quenching oil verses something else. Hopefully I have done enough research on my own so I don't get yelled at for asking questions Regards otto
  6. Wow, That's an amazing looking blade. What is the finish on the blade?
  7. Looks like that beast would cut through just about anything. Nice work
  8. I was thinking the same thing. I may change it to a solid color. No I don't. Let me tell you swinging a 10 pound hammer and holding the stock kicked my butt
  9. I was thinking light cutlass or wakizashi type blades. Not sure how the hilt would evolve single handed I would think.
  10. I like the what if part of this. I would think that if swords stayed in fashion a short slashing blade would evolve. Easy to carry in cars and around busy towns.
  11. That looks great. I have been thinking of building something that size. How does it work on 1/4" stock? I mostly do knives and small stuff and have been looking at hydrolic presses but think the speed of a power hammer would be better.
  12. Yeah after I finished it I thought it would have been handy on my last boar hunt.
  13. Looks good. I got some scout 2 springs that need to become something
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