Randy Bill

204 (228 lbs.?)

Inkwell base?

Thank you, Judson Yaggy, for your opinion on swaybacked anvils. Agreed. I find sway turns a simple straightening process into a back-and-forth time wasting endeavor. I only frequent one professional shop; both anvils have chewed faces from cold work but are dead flat. The owner describes an anvil with any sway as "worn out." In my shop, an otherwise excellent Hay-Budden has a barely discernable sway that makes it far less useful than the marred, but straight, Badger.

Welder or weldor.

Is your counterweight cast iron or steel?

Beryllium-Copper pliers, 6 1/2", Ampco P-30. No longer made with Be-Cu, this company's tools are now Al-Cu. Non-sparking, non-magnetic, developed for the oil and gas industry long ago. This pair has a pleasant "heft" and warmth, noticeably different than chromed steel (I do the "close your eyes" trick on friends who use pliers). A quick price check revealed I will not be using many bronze tools. Personally, I very much dislike pliers, avoid using them, and only have these as a curiosity. I once fired a mechanic who approached my 620 tractor with a pair of pliers.

JHCC, thanks large for posting the texts image; I'm ashamed to admit I don't own a single one of those pictured. Yet. Example: Abe Books has Bealer's work (1969 printing) for $6.99, free shipping. Here in the boonies it's faster, easier, and cheaper to simply buy a used book rather than deal with inter-library loan.

I have seen the edge of masking tape applied to the work used as a guide.

Mr. Evans, thanks for the most interesting story. Much appreciated.

Dave, I heard in North Dakota they're now using row-crop tractors for front weights. Randy

Coyote, I have an identical twin to your vise that is marked ACME approximately in the center of the ski jump on the movable jaw. Weight (60 on mine) is at the bottom of the jump. I found the markings quite by accident only after the third steel-wooling with oil; the letters are 3/16" in height and lightly stamped. So lightly, in fact, that an aggressive scouring using an angle grinder with a wire wheel could quickly obliterate them. You have a very nice tool there.

Quite humbled by your comments, fellows. Dave, any ideas for the cut-off? Frosty, the tap is on the opposite side. Jeez.

Dave: I'm busted. Note I purposely said "tractor axle" in the hope that you wouldn't spot the pedigree. This was derelict in my favorite derelict scrap yard; the owner had specialized in two-cylinders and it took a year to get the courage up to ask him about it. He knew full well what my intent was and to my relief said it was beyond help. I wonder if someday I'll find a rare rebuild-able "A" missing only an axle. I own and use and love a 620 here. Thomas: Very kind words, thanks. The dark streaks are the distance the "bands" have been driven down so far, the degree of taper was incidental and luckily seems about right.

2 3/4" diameter tractor axle cut to 33". To bed the axle, I ripped the log section in half with a chainsaw and cut a groove in each side. Bands (for now) are #9 plain steel wire, oxy-acetylene welded. Axle is 54# and ash base 78#. Rebound is about 60% (?), the "not-quite-back-in-the-fingers" kind. I'd add I wasn't surprised or disappointed with the rebound, if you can cut it with a hacksaw it isn't going to act like a hardened piece. Having all the mass directly underneath does give a distinct "feeling" difficult to describe.

matto, it's possible the thumbscrews alone hold the blades. If it's what I think it is. Bet some of our buds from across the pond are shaking their heads at my imperfect knowledge. Sheep shearing, if done well, is an art defying description I found far beyond my abilities. A shearers kit will contain dozens if not hundreds of removable blades/combs and they are changed out frequently, depending on how much grit the wool holds. Razor sharpness is a must, in my limited experience they were sent out for "sharpening". Professional shearers may do their own? Neat tool.