dkaschner

Have you tried the Guild of Metalsmiths? I used to be an instructor for a beginners course they sponsor. I believe they now offer3, 4-day beginner courses. A great bunch of guys too. Lots to learn from the old-timers in the group and if you want to learn, they are more than anxious to teach. Dan

I just sold my 33 lb. Anyang. At one time I was fired up to get it setup and working (I got lazy and just bought a new 55 lb. from James). James Johnson was very helpful with the old hammer even though it wasn't purchased from him. That is one of the reasons I will always buy from James. IMO, he and his dad provide world-class customer services. But I digress. Given that it was sitting for some time, James suggested that I put 1/2 cup of oil in the cylinder before starting it up. He also sent me a nice little list of items to check / adjust when starting up an older machine. You might try calling or emailing James. He is one of the good ones. :-)

I don't know... if a blade gets too hot it will "lose it's temper"? Just a thought.

Very often they have 'intro to blacksmithing' classes. The Guild of Metalsmiths here in Minnesota has a great education program. We welcome anyone that has a desire to learn. In fact the 'intro' class (or equivalent) is a requirement for more advanced classes. I would think there are many local groups across the country similar to The Guild. Good luck and enjoy the journey!

Michael, not sure what price range you are looking in, but I live in Eagan, MN and I have a 'new' #260 double horn classic from Old World Anvils that I have been trying to get the time to post here and on a few more boards and the Guild of Metalsmiths. I say 'new' because I have had it for years and never used it. Been using a 120 Nimba I picked up right after getting this one. The Nimba works well in my smaller smithy and I kept telling myself, "soon I will have the smithy finished and I can move in the big anvil"... smithy's never get 'finished'... Anyway, PM me and we can talk if you are interested. Or you can just stop by, always love to talk with a fellow smith... Dan

Michael, have you looked into joining The Guild of Metalsmiths? Lots of blacksmiths, education and events. Dan

Might check out Don Foggs forum (Bladesmith's Forum?). Christopher Price and a few of his friends are doing this and looking for mentors and/or tools, materials and supplies. It is a wonderfully worthy cause and, as specualted here, seems to be extremely well recieved by the vets.

I have to agree... James has always been an example of way above and beyond when I dealt with him. Just an all-around nice guy too. Rare these days but there are still a few people like James around. Well done James!

Hi Gene. Welcome to another Guild member.

AC/DC

As I understand it (after all none of us were actually there) with a sword the size of a Claymore you do not typically 'draw' the sword in the sense you are thinking. It is not a 'quick I have to draw thsi sword' action. You would generally take the sword and scabbard off as a whole, draw the sword and very possibly toss the scabbard aside or place it back over your shoulder as you see fit. The point being a Claymore is not a 'fencing' sword. It is drawn before going into battle and not typically sheathed / unsheathed during the battle. Claymore were more for incapacitating the horse that is charging you than a hand-to-hand weapon for fighting another foot soldier. After unseating the charging warrior, you would be at a severe disadvantage if a sword fight ensued and all you had was a Claymore. They are big weapons and not near as fast as other hand weapons.

Sorry it has taken so long for me to respond. It is very difficult for me. This hits so close to home. I wish you and your family peace in your life-long journey in learning to live without you son. Dan Kaschner

I still have to make the base, fill it with cement and let the cement cure before I can start to put it into service. Will take at least a month for the cement to cure (at least as far as I have been told), so it may be a while until i get it in service. I will try and remember to post something when the Anayng is operational so that those of you that are interested can stop by and check it out... Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread. 'And now we return to your regularly scheduled programming...' Dan

Should be a number of people locally, that own a tire hammer. I am not one of them, but, the Guild of Metalsmiths had a tire hammer build last year (if my memory serves me right) and they built at least 10 hammers. Most, if not all, were taken home by local smiths. I live in Eagan and own an Anyang 33 lb. hammer that I am currently in the process of build a stand for and putting it in service (after sitting for 4 or 5 years :-( )... or I would invite you over to try it out. Anyway, good luck. Contact the Guild and you should have no problem finding someone with a tire hammer.

The primary issues when using any gas in a forge is supplying enough BTUs to the forge. This is very doable with natural gas if you are aware of adjust for two variables. 1. Typically natural gas is supplied at a lower pressure to a residence than you are used to using with propane. 2. Natuaral gas has a lower thermal content than propane, i.e., less BTUs per unit volume. Adjustments: 1. Use a bigger line. You may have to use a 1/2" or larger line instead of the 1/4" line used with propane. I weld with my natural gas forge at less than 2 psi (my house is supplied with 2 psi service as opposed to 11" wc). 2. If you are not using a blown forge, I would suggest swtiching to it. Venturi forges use the pressure as an aid in the mixing chamber. You don't have that luxury at 11" wc (less than 1 psi), so the blower is used to provide the pressure for mixing the air and fuel. It is definately doable, although it may require some retooling. Dan Kaschner