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I Forge Iron

Harris Snyder

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  1. Interesting... Most of the people who've used it seem to say it works okay, and most of the theory people say it shouldn't work as well. Curious. I'll have to experiment, then.
  2. Alright, so there goes that idea, by and large. I'll buy a little less 1144 for machining, and pick up some 4140 or 1045. There is a bit of disagreement on the issue, it seems that some people have used it successfully, but since it really isn't that big a deal to just get a few rods of each, I'll just do that. Thanks.
  3. Hello everyone, I'm curious about 1144 steel and it's forging properties. I'm about to pick some up for a machining project, and I'm trying to decide how much to get. It has .40 to .48% carbon, (and over a percent manganese), so I reason that it should be hardenable and behave similarly to 1045. However, 1144 has a bit of sulfur added (up to .33%) to make it easier to machine. Does this interfere with it's forging properties at all, or affect its properties if forged into a tool like a drift or fuller? Can I just treat this like 1045 and call it a day, or is this just wishful thinking? Thanks.
  4. Iron Dwarf, you could use a 1kw unit for forging? What size stock. I'm a bit surprised, but pleasantly so.
  5. As someone who has a good deal of experience with electronics (and postsecondary education in physics), I'm not concerned about the actual assembly in the least. I'd gladly pay for a set of plans that just encapsulates all the engineering and fine tuning work you guys have done over the past months... Is there any plan to make such a write-up available in the near future? I'd love to be able to build one this summer.
  6. Vert informative, Ric! My first thought for making a chalice, at least at my skill level (low) would be to make an aluminium casting and clean it up on a lathe. Probably isn't what you're going for, but just thought I'd throw it out there.
  7. Nice work! I really like this hammer design. Very attractive.
  8. Yeah that is a lot of truck for the money. I live in the city most of the time, but when I have time off I go down to my family's place in NH and that's when I wish I had a truck. Oh well.. Someday...
  9. This is a really good idea. Thanks. I'll get on that. about the truck, figured it had to be a serious diesel, not a pickup truck.. Surprised it's cheaper though! And about those radius gauges, now that I think about it, I think I've seen a set of nice ones in my uncle's shop... good call.
  10. Haha no problem, I downloaded it and fixed the orientation. Looks like a pretty serious truck! that truck bed is probably sturdier than my anvil stand, which is only made less sturdy by my attempts to quiet it through softening... My normal work position is centre of anvil with round faced hammer.. but that feels inefficient for drawing... I haven't taken another stab at the axle yet, but I will soon enough.. Have been busy and haven't been able to forge.
  11. Charles, that's a neat idea, the curved hardy tools.. Trouble is my hardy hole is on the horn of the anvil, about an inch from the step to the face... Could still do something similar though. Yeah, alright. I guess it's time to set up proper support for my anvil.
  12. Mine's an NC tool co farrier's anvil too, but honestly it doesn't suit my work well at all. I often feel that a heavy block of tool steel with a hardy hole would be a better anvil than the anvil I'm using now, haha. Thanks, I think I'll attempt to grind some of it's edges. Does anyone use any sort of jig for radius grinding, or just go for it and get it as close as possible?
  13. A chipped up sharp corner is what I have... Considering grinding it...
  14. Hahah I love this. Yeah, definitely need to get a proper anvil stand rigged up. *sigh* my work space is very sub-optimal, living in a city and whatnot. There's loooots of little problems that need fixing. Like I'd like a vice for one...
  15. Francis, unfortunately my anvil is 70 lbs and beating like this on the horn makes it jump around. Brian, Yeah that was the hope. I had a feeling mild wouldn't do that job well, that's why i didn't reach for it in the first place. When you say forge hex, do you mean half hammer face blows, rotating the stock 60 degrees between each hit? That sounds like a much better idea than square/octagon/round.... I assume I'm to keep roating it in the same direction then, not back and forth? And I guess I'd be slowly pulling it back onto the anvil between hits too, no? Rich, I think DSW was saying his punch was H13 and the drift was mild... I'm pretty sure H13 and mild are hard to mistake for one another for the reasons you've outlined very well!
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