WRH51

Saw this cool looking hammer XXXXXXXXX. Passing it along for anyone interested. Hmmm.... I can't paste over the link. ( IFI does not allow third party sales, ) Search Williams and Wilson Mechanical Hammer it is in the City of London, Ontario. Williams & Wilson Mechanical Hammer for metal work. Approximate weight: 2500 - 3000 pounds. Approximate age: 80 years. Requires 550 volt to operate 10 horsepower open motor. Needs to be mounted on an appropriate isolated concrete foundation.

Sodium hypochlorite aka bleach works well to get something rusted and pitted. "Splatter" full concentration on the piece. Covering it with plastic or putting it in a bag will accelerate the process. Give it some time to work. Wire brush the piece and "mist" it over the entire piece. Let it sit again. Neutralize and lightly wire brush. Some experimentation with time and/or dilution to get the desired look, may be needed.

My father picked up appears to be a large slitting chisel. It has multiple markings. The one marking I have idenitfied as being the symbol for Pennsylvania Railroad. "PRR" inside an outline of sorts. The other marking is a "H" inside a shield outline. It is not the Charles E. Hall symbol. The shield looks like the outline of a "Phillips 66" sign. I have found the symbol on various tools on Ebay but I cannot find who the manufacturer is/was. Anyone?

Is the cylinder going to be pushing the ram up or pulling the ram up? You can calculate the lifting force of the cylinder from the area of the piston. If the cylinder is pulling the ram up, you subtract the area of the rod from the piston. What size rod? Is 2.5" the actual piston diameter and not the overall cylinder diameter?

Nakedanvil- Watch the video again. There is very little "slop". No more than a flypress anyway. The clutch has been removed and is not welded either. Hence the "conversion" that takes out the "slop" and connects the flywheel and the crankshaft. A little more involved than taking off the motor and putting on a c-clamp.No permanent modifications were made to the unit. In about 30 minutes I can convert back to a fully funcitioning punch press with air clutch should I ever have the need or desire.

Thanks for the comments. You would be surprised at how much it does work like a fly press. You do have a "feel" for the work like a fly press. I think that you would lose this if you made it treadle powered. It takes very little effort to work the press by hand. I would say less effort than swinging a hammer. The required range of motion with your arm is also very short. Also like a fly press, the rotation of the flywheel generates torque in the crank and you get the return or “bounce back”. The only real effort I exert is during the down stroke. During heavy work I actually have hold the handle to keep the flywheel from over rotating backwards to keep the crank from going over top dead center. I have punches and dies also. It will cold punch a 3/8” hole in

There was some discussion a while ago about building a fly press or a machine that functions like a fly press. There were ideas about cams and/or cranks to accomplish this most of which were shot down. I had posted a question about alternative uses for a punch press for blacksmithing purposes to which many raised safety concerns. Then I had a revelation. Why not modify the punch press to be used manually? Take a look at the video my good friend Matt put together and posted on YouTube. Thanks Matt! This is an Alva Allen 12 ton punch press that I converted to manual operation. The samples shown are all cold forged/formed. The leaf shapes were cut with a shear and then veined on the press. Let me know what you think. YouTube - OBI press hand power adaptation

I am pretty sure you could convert to propane. That is a real buy compared to what that forge costs new.

The model on the machine is MK 10. If you have an operation and maintenance manual for this machine that would be extremely helpful. Any info would be helpful. Thanks for your help

I recently acquired a Alva Allen 12 ton punch press for basically scrap price. It is in excellent condition with air clutch. I also have the pieces to mount punch and die sets to it as well as the punch and dies themselves. My question is what are some creative or alternative uses for these machines as far as blacksmithing is concerned. I understand the considerable safety concerns associated with these machines and that they are designed for cold work. I thought this might be a way to start a thread to exhange ideas on this subject. Thanks in advance for your ideas!

I think I have an idea but I will add the disclaimer that I am not a "pneumatic wizard" You said that it wont let you control the hammer from the exhaust. When you open the exhaust does the cylinder extend or retract and stop? The valve is air actuated and spring return if the air actuator is on the wrong end of the valve it will "stick" in open or closed postion. You could try putting the actuator on the other end of the valve body like dablacksmith said. If that does not work another option is to "reverse" your plumbing and exhaust the valve thru the input port. Some valves will let you do this and some don't. Describe the plumbing arrangement of your valve. Three ports on the left and two on the right in the picture. Where does each port go? On my hammer I have two ports coupled together to a ball valve where it is exhausted. I am not sure if they were ment to be input or exhaust ports as I got the valve out of junkyard. I hope some of this helps and you get your hammer back up and runnning.

Plate list punch capacity as 3/4 in 3/8 plate and 11/16 in 1/2 plate. I have the motor, leather drive belt and guard. I think this was made to run off a line shaft as the motor mount plate and guard do not appear to be original. The notcher will act independently of the notcher and shear on the other end, two seperate engagements. The punch also has a hand lever to move the punch up and down to check the clearence without engaging the pedal. I was wondering if the punch attachment could be removed and replaced with other attachment such as a brake. I have some punch/die set ups that came off of a punch press. Don't know the technical name but they have the sleeve bearings that ride on guide posts for precise movement. Would be neat if I could use them on the ironworker. Thanks for the info arftist.

Just a thought. I don't know how far along you are on building your hammer. Consider inverting the cylinder like on a Phoenix or Bull. This allows the most surface area to be used to lift the cylinder. On a Big Blu the rod side of the piston lifts the ram. Piston area minus rod area equals less surface area equals less lifting power. You really don't need large surface area to send the ram down. Gravity takes care of that. I built my hammer like that and it works great. I did not have to put on any regulators to get control either. Check the pic. The hammer could use a paint job but I would rather forge than paint.

Took some pics last night. There are several areas to make adjustments on the punch area of the iron worker. I want to make sure everything is aligned before I start using the punch. I'm not a fan of shrapnel. I does have a lever to move the punch by hand to check this alignment but it appears that the stroke is adjustable also. Anyway, capacity is 1" round and Square stock. 3/8" plate on the shear and nother. 3/8 3x3 angle. I can't remember the punch capacities. I hope someone has some info on this machine.

Does any one have info on a Henry Pels & Co Ironworker? I got a deal on a mechanical ironwoker awhile back and am getting it up and running. Shears angle, round and square bar and plate fine. Also has a notching shear and area for punching which looks like it could be uses for other applications. Appears to be adjustable. Any info would be appreciated.