War wick

Phil the pictures in the link explained everything thanks

I have another remedy that you could try. Here in Moz if we step on a poisonous thorn or a sea urchin while bare foot. We draw out the splinters using a paw paw (papaya) skin. First we cut the paw paw open. Then we carefully remove the seeds from the centre of the paw paw. Once the seeds are removed we scrape the fleshy fruit away from the outer fruit skin. We then eat the fleshy fruit Once the fruit has been consumed the final step is to place the moist pulpy side of the paw paw skin against your own skin in the area of the splinter.Bandage the paw paw skin in place and then remove the bandage after 24 hours. Paw paw is amazing at drawing out organic splinters. Maybe paw paw could also work on steel splinters.

Glen I have used your design and built a 55 forge, although we call them 44 gallon drums here. We are obviously more aligned to the imperial gallon. Thank you for the 55 it got me hooked on the idea of smithing, but I am a tool man. Making a well designed tool, will give me as much pleasure as the objects that the tool helps to create. John Both charcoal and coal are available here. For the time being good quality charcoal is available at a lot lower cost than coal. Unfortunately it is the sight of these huge trucks over loaded with charcoal going to Maputo each day, that makes me want to lean towards a coal burning forge. As to the size of the forge, 20mm x20mm square bar would probably be the largest stock that I would attempt to smith at this stage.

Hi all. I would like to build a solid fuel forge for the pleasure of building the forge. I would appreciate any suggestions as to the type of forge design you recommend. I down loaded the Canedy catalog that SReynolds posted. Just reading one catalog, the range of forges choices is vast. Once the forge is complete, I would like to use it as a hobby forge over weekends, but please don't tailor your suggestions to my needs. Living in Mozambique, I come across so many talented people that don't have an opportunity, so I may hand the forge over to someone to use during the week. I don't have any restrictions in terms of space or mild steel materials. I don't have a design preference for the forge, but if you have a suggestion, I would like clarification on the relationship between the grate, the clinker breaker and the tuyere. I have not found a lot written on how the clinker breaker works and the best design for one. I have some 6mm mild steel sheets that I could use, but if they are not ideal, I would rather purchase the recommended thickness sheets, to build the forge. I stumbled across this inspiring forum and I look forward to being part of this community once my forge is complete. Regards War wick