JAKA

This is the side that faces the blade. Can you see the dimples from the ball peen hammer? They expand the metal at the edges of the slot, and make the slot slightly smaller. Then the guard is driven onto the tang. Then the guard is taken off and the surface ground down until the dimples are gone. I always try for a fit tight enough that the guard has to be pressed (or hammered) on. This just helps guarantee a good, gap-free joint. I guess I forgot to mention that the tang is slightly tapered. It's thickest at the guard location.

I love it when you taunt me. Thank you for that wonderful information. I can already see where I need to go with my forge. By the way, I wasn't offended by those who would like newbies to gas forges like myself to do more research. I understand that one can get frustrated answering the same questions over and over which is why I feel it's on my head to corral as much info as I can. It certainly wasn't aimed at the two of you who replied on this topic. I just felt like I had touched a sore subject. Thanks again and I will trap my propane dealer next time he arrives and will visit about a pressure valve.

I've started reading some of the other posts and see that there are those who take offense at questions without adequate research before the questions. I can understand the frustration if questions are asked over and over. In that light, I think I'll hold off on asking advice on just where to get started until I've learned more on my own about forges. beslagsmed and ThomasPowers, Thank you for the info you've freely shared. It's appreciated.

I don't really have a gas orifice other than the ring spacers on the end of the 2" pipe. I also do not have a gas regulator. I'm really pleading ignorance on this one. I've always used a coal forge before so this is virgin territory for me. What looks like insulation is actually refractory such as that used in furnaces.

I was fortunate enough to have some friends make a propane forge for me several years ago. It heats up just fine but only has a small sweet spot in the forge for the iron to get hot and at that it's never hot enough to weld with. As you can see from the attachments I think I need something more than the two inch pipe for a burner head but I'm not sure where to start. It runs right off the propane bottle with just a small fan for an air blast. I have a sliding plate in the inlet line to restrict air flow if needed. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks.

Absolutely wonderful tutorial. The knife turned out to be beautiful. Really nice work. I have a couple of questions for you. You said you peen the edges of the guard. Are you talking about the bottom edges of the slot or the top? Also, you mentioned that you hammered the guard onto the shoulders. Would it not fit prior to this? Not criticizing, just curious since you've achieved a really nice fit on the guard/blade. This is really useful informations and it is appreciated. Thanks.

Thank you for the suggestion of the website on the lapidary forum. I just finished going through some of their forum subjects and it's a great site. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks to all of you who commented on the bayonet conversions. Just FYI, the owner was advised of the loss of historical value before work was started and was fine with it. I also buffed up a pair of German SS daggers for a co-worker who said the same thing. The knives were brought back from war as trophies and they (the owners) said they would never consider selling them. On the Malachite; it's brittle but I put a macarta spacer on each side of the malachite spacers with epoxy before any finish work was started and did not have a problem with them. However, if the knife is used as a hammer I can't speak for the stableness of the malachite or any stone. Thanks again for all the kind critiques. Forums like these are what gives those of us in the knife field encouragement.

I posted these on the Blade Forum but would like to post them here for comments also. A coworker who owns two World War One French bayonets wanted them converted to daggers. Results: #1. Nickle silver guard and pommel. Ebony handle material with flutes carved in. #2 Brass guard and pommel. Handle of Osage Orange with twisted wire in carved flutes. Spacers of red macarta, malachite, and brass If you hold down the CNTL key and spin the wheel on your mouse you can increase/decrease the size of what you're viewing.

Wow!, It looks fantastic. JAKA

Don't you know that years later when they pull that, perhaps rusted, scroll or spoon out of where they stored it that it will bring back fond memories of their forging experience. Thanks, it's good to know other get as much out of giving of our craft as I do. JAKA

It's good to let people know you're interested in blacksmithing. I was surprised to get a phone call from my regular UPS delivery man one Saturday. He had seen a seldom used, small forge sitting outside my garage and wanted to know if I had any blacksmithing tools I could sell him. He had read a lot of material on blacksmithing and wanted to start forging but couldn't find any equipment other than new (expensive) stuff. I, having 5 sons, had collected anvils over the years to supply each of them with one. I had two anvils left just gathering rust so I sold him his choice at a really good price for him and threw in two sets of tongs and a hot cut for the anvil. The man thought it was pure gold and it really warmed my heart to see how excited he was. I'm hoping he takes me up on my invite to come back anytime and to also show me some of his forgings. JAKA

To all who responded to my query on patterning. These knives will be used for show only and as usual in the blacksmithing trades, you've all given me some good tips and ideas. It's much appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks. I had emailed one knifemaker who did use dies but cannot find my email. (I probably deleted it already). Being a Kansas native, what do you mean by granite cobblestone? JAKA