bmazingo

Thanks

Hello Friends. It has been many years since I last visited this forum. I am happy to see the many improvements and members. I have returned because my children are now showing an interest in smithing. I look forward to the many conversations I will have with you. Have a great day.

Recently finish a fillet knife to match skinner I made for a co-worker. 1095 steel blade whitetail deer antler handle with red fiber spacer and stainless fittings.

I have not talk to the man who did the actual test, but after I talked to the knife owner I think the blade was not properly secured and perhaps flexed or shifted during the test. I appreciate all the input.

Okay I made a knife to be used as a skinner (posted in the forums a little while back). It was tested for hardness(several tests with in a 1/2" area. the results were from 69-72Rc. It was my under standing that 1095 would not exceed Mid 60's as quenched let alone after a temper is drawn.. How is this possible? Is my heat treat data incorrect? The test equipment was calibrated and I believe to be accurate. The knife was heated and then quenched in vegetable oil (about 100-110F), scuffed with a scotchbrite pad and then straight into a 425F oven for about 1hr 15mins. The blade was a medium-dark straw color, darkest on the edges and the tip area. I knew it was hard but I did not think it would be that hard. Any one willing to shed some light on this?

He liked it so much he wants a matching Fillet knife. So I get to make something I have never made. Time to start the R&D!!! Anyone want to suggest a good beginner steel for a fillet knife???

It has been while since I have posted anything in the forums. But I thought I might share this little skinner that I made for a co-worker. It is a 1095 blade with a Whitetail deer antler handle. The sheath is just leather stitched with waxed thread then formed to the knife. I think it came out very nice. The blade quenched beautifully in some warm vegetable oil. Then I tempered it in the oven until a dark straw (about an hour or so at 425F).

Thanks guys, I will tell him. I was thinking along the same age, I hope he passes it on to one of his kids.....or sells it to me (lol). It is a sweet anvil.

It is a co-worker's anvil, belonged to his grandfather. We cleaned it up and found the numbers 1-0-8 (120lbs I think) no other numbers or letters. The 1 is upside down. It appears to be forge welded construction, steel plate for the face and I would suspect wrought iron for the rest. I can make out a deffinate flatter mark on one side of the body and almost all of the weld lines are visable to some extent. No pritchell hole just the hardie hole. Has the two square holes, one under the horn one under the heel. Horn was not welded on center-line of the body. I think it is a mouse hole, but I am no expert. I do know it is old. I seem to remeber reading something about the lack of a round hole indicating an older anvil....... I am not sure. Share the knowledge!!!!!! ps. could not get the uploader to work so I had to post links, sorry. http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_2130.jpg http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_213001.jpg http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_213002.jpg http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_213003.jpg http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_213101.jpg http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_2132.jpg http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_213102.jpg http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_213201.jpg

I may make me one of those axes with the cold roll welded to the head. If it works for him I am sure it will work for me.

Sometimes wetting the area with water will bring out more details.

I have made several knives from some sawmill bandsaw blade. The blade I used was .075" (+ or -) . I now have access to a large shear and a good supply of the stuff at my new job. Better than cutting it up with a torch to get it home. http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/35788-pearing-knife/

Sounds like some one wasn't putting out. Stewart is right, if you work alone you should be able to move your own equipment by what ever means you can. But I would like to see the bird that dropped that 400lb feather.LOL I have often loaded fully dressed small block car engines with only myself and another person. These are well in excess of 500lbs, proper lifting techniques are a saving grace. Then again a little "WANT-TO" helps also. I draw the line at 300lbs by myself, give or take 20lbs. Anything over that and I pay for it the next day/week.