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I Forge Iron

Tormented Soul

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    North Alabama
  • Interests
    Machine work, Wood work, Fabrication

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  • Location
    Alabama
  1. Steve is correct. I made mention of the generated leg because of the fact that it doesn't split. In no way was I suggesting to use it or tap off of it to run the controls of the converter. Some machinery does have voltage sensitive electronics and you have to be aware of the potential for voltage differences on the generated leg. Zach
  2. Generally it is a no-no to use the generated leg of the phase converter to power the controls of anything. The third leg will generate ~ 240 vac between it and ground. It does not split to 120 vac like your household current does. Some folks call this a stinger. Does your hammer try to single phase when the converter is off? The hammer shouldn't even have any power going to it unless the converter is running. Did you build the converter? Hope this helps. Zach
  3. Nice Job on the hammer so far! I learned to program g-code on a wells index. Ours was so old all of the circuit boards were wire wrapped! The control cabinet stood off to the side and was as large as a refrigerator! Sorry for the hijack, I just haven't seen a wells index in 15 years. Zach
  4. The writing states that it draws 45.5 amps @ 230VAC. A 50amp double pole breaker and #6 wire to feed it should suffice if the run of wire from the panel isn't too long. Don't skimp on the wire feeding the machine. Other than the low 20% duty cycle it should be fine to learn with. Zach
  5. I would check with your local code first. All 220V machines in my home shop are on their own circuit with a properly sized breaker and or point of use fuze. Most all industrial wiring that I have seen has been done that way except for a few plants that I've been in that had "buss bars" hung from the ceiling. Even then each machine hooked to the "buss bar" was properly fused. Hope this helps. Zach
  6. Bung King. Several styles to choose from. Also may want to try to look up Bitter End Old School Choppers. Lots of neat stuff. Zach
  7. Thanks Beth! Sam, Thanks for the link I will give that a try. New2BS Thanks! Zach
  8. Thanks Guys! I bought a 330 euroanvil a few months ago and this weekend was the first chance the weather was nice enough to get out and play. All the pieces with the exception of the basket twists were hammered out of some 1/2 rebar. The basket stock was some 3/16 round I had laying around. Frosty, Thanks! The piece on the heel is another welded bundle for a basket twist. Rob, Thanks! Billy, I tacked the pieces together with my MIG then hammered the welds out. I will try to forge weld a bundle this weekend. Sam, Thanks for the compliments and the tips! The flat in the scroll is the result of using a pair of needle nose pliers to get the scroll started. I don't have a pair of round nose pliers or scrolling tongs as of yet.
  9. Sorry guys forgot to attach pic. Thanks, Zach
  10. Hello all, I am new to blacksmithing. This weekend I had the opportunity to try my hand at it. Here is a pic of a couple of trinkets that I managed to hammer out. Please feel free to critique these items. Thanks, Zach
  11. I have a question. What orientation of the legs would be best in the fabricated tripod stand like pictured here? Mr. Hofi's stand has the two legs on the horn side and Bryan's picture shows the single leg on the horn side. Obviously both will work. Which one do you think is better and why? Thanks, Zach
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