Cast iron rivet forge & Bufco blower
Posted 19 September 2008 - 08:20 PM
I have a few questions about the forge and the blower. The forge appears to have had a replacement plate through the air flows into the coal. Some local smiths have recommended lining the forge with fire clay, refactory clay, fire brick, etc. Since I want to use this forge as a demo unit, I would like to keep the weight down. Is it necessary/desirable to line the forge?
The Buffalo Forge Co blower, a small one, is in pretty good shape. Today I disassembled the unit to find that it had been lubed with what appears to be solidified axle/wheel bearing grease. There is an oil fill hole in the top of the housing. I wanted to completely disassemble the unit to completely clean and lube it but was unable to separate the impeller from the shaft (set screw was removed)? Any suggestions.
Current plans are to lube it with a lithium base grease.
I would like to paint the unit to it's original color. Any Idea as to what this color was?
Posted 19 September 2008 - 10:42 PM
Not an ordinary bum.
For who else but a blacksmith,
Stirs his coffee with his thumb.
Posted 22 September 2008 - 11:06 AM
My first one is an oval Buffalo forge with a pump handle, the pan is cast iron, and I use one of the stamped & lasered tuyeres that are available on eBay. My second one, which I just finished cleaning & painting is a Columbia 400, which I replaced the welded sheet metal pan, that needed clay with a 20" cast iron skillet from Cabella's and a tuyere made from a scrap stainless block. I have had no problems running with bare cast iron, all anyone needs to remember is to let the CI cool slowly (pull fire off tuyere and let it cool till the coals are warm to the touch) if it cools too fast it can crack.
Personally I keep mine without clay for two reasons, one is that I carry both in the bed of my truck and can see the clay popping out after the first pothole or rut. Second is the desire to keep the fire clean, as everytime your work, and firetools scrape the clay the sand will pollute the fire slightly (or that is what my head says). Third is that refractory clay produces a mildly acidic solution when it gets damp and since I store my equipment in a barn, I didn't want condensation to get between the clay and CI to accelerates the rust that would normally form from trapped water.
Posted 22 September 2008 - 07:53 PM
My cast iron rivet forge has clay right out of my backyard in it (we have some good quality clay, we have 4 brick plants within 20 miles of here), I worked with it with no clay for some time but had fits keeping the fire the size and shape I wanted. The worse part of my forge isn't so much the clay as it is the spacing on the legs. Mine uses a ratchet handle and wheel and it doesn't take much to pull the whole forge over. I have created two stakes that I use to hold the forge down to help cure this. The other problem is I use a two wheeled hand truck to move my stuff outside to my working area, the legs are just exactly the wrong distance apart to be able to put the hand truck under it and move it. So for this I keep a piece of plywood around for the forge to be moved with for now, but I do have plans for a metal bar that will run between two legs that will be installed about 1 inch above the bottom of the legs so I don't have to use the plywood anymore.
My Cast Iron "bowl" was cracked when I got it, instead of trying to have it welded I bolted 1/4" by 1" flat stock formed to the side of the bowl and bolted it in place. Then at the start of the crack near the center whole I drilled a small hole to keep the crack from furthering. This has held quite well now for about 18 years. Be sure to allow the cast iron to cool slowly or you will be finding the need for just this such a repair or worse...
Posted 22 September 2008 - 08:16 PM
I suppose it's a lighter alternative to lining the pan with clay (easy to remove and pack away). My pan has some corrosion holes in it and needs a patch job too. Although a decent layer of refractory clay would make my patch job last longer, and the lining with the brick box might be even better. :confused:
Anyway, I don't think a layer of fireclay will make the rig too heavy - think on it, weigh the advantages to the disadvantages (I know I will )
Sam Falzone - Oakhammer Forge
Posted 22 September 2008 - 09:19 PM
Posted 24 September 2008 - 07:48 PM
Posted 24 September 2008 - 08:47 PM
Posted 05 October 2008 - 03:10 PM
Finner. The original color appears to have been black. And as you mentioned, the
blower is a bit noisy.
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