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Brake drum size question for forge


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I did a search but couldn't find anything that addressed the wall thickness question.  I scored these two brake drums for free today. The top one is 11" ID with a 1/8" floor plate thickness. The new looking bottom one is 10" ID but 1/4" floor plate thickness. I'm guessing the thicker one would be the way to go, but is it more important to have a slightly larger diameter?

 

20170116_140752.jpg

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My brake drum forge is huge. I don't know the dimensions. I was thinking bigger is better. It certainly is not. I use so much coal its kinda ridiculous. I really didn't realize it for a long time and now its about time for a replacement because its warped and cracking. My advice would be to use the smaller drum or a brake disc.

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I use a brake rotor myself. The one I'm using is 2" deep and 8" inner diameter. It has served me well and is still going strong.

  I like the ones that were rear rotors with the inner being basically a drum for the parking brake. It dosnt have to be that tho. It just seems the wall goes all the way up on them without the fluting on the disc part going through to the fire pot. Tho either should work fine. I'm working with helping a friend build one atm, and will be using one where the fluting does go through. 

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12 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

I use a brake rotor myself. The one I'm using is 2" deep and 8" inner diameter. It has served me well and is still going strong.

  I like the ones that were rear rotors with the inner being basically a drum for the parking brake. It dosnt have to be that tho. It just seems the wall goes all the way up on them without the fluting on the disc part going through to the fire pot. Tho either should work fine. I'm working with helping a friend build one atm, and will be using one where the fluting does go through. 

Can we see any pictures please?

 

thanks- Tom.

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The issue with that would be ash going into the blower or collecting in the blower pipe. Even with a T fitting some ash can collect on the "shelf" part of the air inlet with the blower off.  With a Y fitting it would direct almost half the ash into the blower pipe. 

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Just remember there are more ways to go.  Charles Stevens has a good post on "just a box of dirt" http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/44842-just-a-box-of-dirt-or-a-simple-side-blast-forge/

there are many ways to build a forge. The key is to make something that works and get started. You can always see what works for what You have to work with. Mine works for Me.    Crazy Ivan and I have even forged a couple @3lb. Hammers with it, tho the inch deeper pot may have worked better for those. Do, learn, improve. 

 

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19 hours ago, Daswulf said:

....ash going into the blower or collecting in the blower pipe...

This has not been an issue,  but thanks for putting the info out. It hasn't been an issue for me but that doesn't mean someone shouldn't consider it when they're building.

Brad 

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My guess is about 300 pounds of coal have went through her. It works great for about 3 hours then I have to pull the fire apart and scoop out what i call burning sand because it starts losing heat at that point then put the bigger pieces of still burning coke back in and pile new coal on and back to forging in 2 minutes.  I got sidetracked once and buned the end off a 1 1/4 square 1018. So it heats good.  I've played with the idea of building something that woud be more self cleaning but would rather spend my time forging then building someting different.  

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Yeah I have to clean mine here and there when it gets "gunked up" then it's like new again. I can usually get by killing the air and poking it around. I like mine a lot. Eventually I will build another but same thing with me, just want to keep forging. 

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