induction heating
#1
Posted 07 February 2008 - 11:40 AM
#2
Posted 07 February 2008 - 01:34 PM
They look good for blade making altho for big irregular pieces. .a gas forge is best.
#3
Posted 07 February 2008 - 01:46 PM
#4
Posted 07 February 2008 - 04:59 PM
#5
Posted 07 February 2008 - 06:01 PM
#6
Posted 07 February 2008 - 07:52 PM
Neat Guy - thanks for the link. How did you get pricing and for which model?
So, for a flat bar you would fab a flattish looking coil sequence for the required length of heat?
need more info.....
#7
Posted 07 February 2008 - 10:36 PM
A flatish coil will work; I believe that I have seen a coil that is "C" shapped so that the edge of a knife and be heat treated although I am not sure where I have seen it.
The length of the heat is kind of limited; but, because of the rate at which the material heats up you can feed the the bar through the coil and get longer heats. Also you can heat treat in an inert atmosphere and get no scale.
Also the machine consumes large amounts of power only while heating. I think these are the same units sold by OC tool but I could be wrong.
#8
Posted 14 April 2008 - 08:46 AM
Sorry if i blow your minds out the door, but mine needs some company.
I'll post some pictures once i finish mine
PS: Old computers have Almost everything besides the truck ignition coil, i can get the schematics for the one i'm working on.
To quote so many blacksmiths "we're blacksmiths, it should take us less time to make it than to talk about how to!"
#9
Posted 14 April 2008 - 09:08 AM
nuge said:
If you are feeling "woozy", your ventilation needs to increased.... Propane (even "burned" propane) is displacing the ozygen in your forge.... VERY DANGEROUS!.....
I run a fan unit up in the eave of my forge whenever I have either forge running, just to be safe.... same situation when welding indoors as well....
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This safety reminder has been a public service announcement of the Save Our Blacksmith association. SOB has chapters located all over the world. Contact your local chapter and become a SOB member today!
#10
Posted 14 April 2008 - 10:48 AM
#11
Posted 14 April 2008 - 01:40 PM
#12
Posted 14 April 2008 - 08:52 PM
When I said "woozy before I meant that I know my propane forge isn't doing my lungs any favors, not that it makes me ill.
As for forge welding I am told it is easily obtained without flux (another lunger). Quick heat times means limited oxidizing.
#13
Posted 14 April 2008 - 10:17 PM
nuge said:
Forge welding can be done in a completely inert enviroment so oxidation would be essential eliminated.
#14
Posted 03 January 2009 - 10:44 PM
As previously pointed out here, the induction really shines when you have multiple identical pieces to heat (or reheat).
The heating is incredibly fast and efficient, sometimes too fast for the material to tolerate, so be sure to throttle the more powerful generators back when necessary.
#15
Posted 04 January 2009 - 11:15 AM
Induction is more versatile than you might think with odd sizes and such, you just have to plan ahead.
If i were going through the learning stages of the craft again I would DEFINITELY get an induction forge before any other major tool. Yes, including a trip or air hammer. The luxury of having a near instant yellow heat makes your arm a lot bigger.
#16
Posted 04 January 2009 - 12:08 PM
Some of the nice things about with this forge is:
1.) a flexable wand coil. You can leave work clamped in the vice and 'wand' the coil over the work to take a heat. You could also 'wand' the center of large plate
2.) and open 'C' coil allowing the edge of large work to be put into a coil.
I have used one of these forges at Darryl Nelson's school when I teach there.
It runs on a 50 amp circuit.
1 inch bar for dead cold to yellow (not orange) about 45 to 60 seconds AND you can hold the bar with your bare fingers to within 4 inches of the heat.
Punched holes, upset square corners, upsets...
If I had a job that could justify the expense, I'd get one!
Mark
www.markaspery.net
#17
Posted 04 January 2009 - 09:31 PM
There's also a timed control for a retaining heat so if you are doing a hundred tenons you can set the machine on full to achieve a forging heat and then feather it back to a way lower power draw to retain your color and have it waiting for you when you finish the previous piece.
#18
Posted 27 March 2009 - 04:37 PM
YouTube - DIY 600W induction heater
So it occurred to me, would it be practical to use induction heating to heat metal for blacksmithing? I know it isn't the least bit traditional, but it might be a clean, low cost (in terms of electricity versus coal) way to heat up stock for a bladesmith. Heck, if it would work, you could even run it in a garage or something where you couldn't run a regular forge.
Sorry, I made the mistake of not looking/searching the forum first. There's a thread already on this topic:
IForge Thread
Edited by 2K_Kid, 27 March 2009 - 04:40 PM.
#19
Posted 27 March 2009 - 05:30 PM
I'm holding off till they get a bit more economical to buy myself. If I were into electronics I'd build my own but when it comes to electronics I can't keep the smoke in.
Frosty
Inside a dog it's too dark to read.
"Groucho Marx"
#20
Posted 29 March 2009 - 06:39 AM
They really work well for certain things. Making a local heat to bend something, Doing detail chisel work such as animal heads. Even heat treating tools and blades.
I would guess that with a good assortment of coils you could do most things with it. If your serious contact me off list and I'll get you in touch with someone who is running one and could really answer some real world questions.
Abraham Lincoln
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