ThomasPowers Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 "The old trick of soaking them in water is HORRIBLE as the wood tend to over expand and crush itself against the steel (or iron) eye and so when it dries out it's worse than before and the cycle has to be done again." to quote myself from higher on this page... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobody Special Posted December 10, 2016 Share Posted December 10, 2016 I've had bad luck with the water, great luck with PEG, so so with linseed. The hollow round wedges work great. I make them for any handled tool that I don't want to be able to take apart again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gote Posted December 10, 2016 Share Posted December 10, 2016 12 hours ago, Jackdawg said: Simply stick the head in a bucket of water overnight. NO!!!!! for reasons stated above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crantius Posted December 10, 2016 Share Posted December 10, 2016 Hofi uses Sikaflex 11FC because that's what he could get at the time when he started using it in Israel. This stuff is not a glue, but a sealant. It typically costs <7€/cartridge. If you can find a high strength polyurethane sealant that has a shore hardness of 37 or higher, break elongation ~700% and is marketed as elastic or vibration dampening, chances are it will work similarly well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanternnate Posted December 12, 2016 Author Share Posted December 12, 2016 It looks like this may have turned into a re-handling project. My attempt at getting this one fitting right was a failure. I thought I had it good, but then today when using it this happened. Frosty, got any pics/measurements of those slab handles you talk of for someone to try to copy off of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 40 minutes ago, lanternnate said: Frosty, got any pics/measurements of those slab handles you talk of for someone to try to copy off of? Frosty put a photo in this comment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 Thanks for re-posting the pic J. For reference it's leaning against a 6" x 6" post so figure it's 5 1/2" wide. I have a template somewhere in the shop rather than measurements. The board is 5/4" straight grain clear hickory from a hardwood supply locally. That hammer handle hasnt looked that clean in years, it was pretty much brand new in the pic. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 For those who've used PEG: how much do you use, and how long does it need to soak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Munz Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Hello, I have removed all wedges out of my hammerhandles and now they are glued in the heads with "sikaflex 11 fc" , the same stuff that Mr.Hofi used. Must say, it works pretty well now for 5 years. when the 11 fc is hardened, the handles are rasped, sanded and burnt black with torchflame. At last a little coating with "WD .." to prevent the bad insects - wood worms - . That´s my way. Greetings from germany Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Glycerinnfrom the pharmacy works as well, it likes water and will absorb it from the air, soybean oil is also a drying oil, and oil is a good thing with wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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