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I Forge Iron

Quench Buckets?


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You can get recycled rubber live stock buckets and feed dishes. Freezing and some contact with hot steel doesn't hurt them at all.

I only keep a quench bucket around to keep the holding end cool or prevent tongs from getting too hot. OR have a place to dunk a burned body part.

Frosty The Lucky.

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You can buy Aloe gel as sunburn lotion that's much handier, portable and . . . well just handy. I couldn't keep an aloe plant in my shop in the summer and the one in the kitchen window is the kitchen plant.

It's only good for 1st. and low 2nd.degree burns as 1st. aid. worse and you need serious 1st. aid and maybe an emergency room. If you can get it Silvadine is THE hands down best 1st. ointment for burns. Learn the proper procedures!

Frosty The Lucky.

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I use pure chlorophyl I get it from my chiropractor it is amazing stuff.  The US army was going to use it in World War II but did not want the dark green goo on it's soldiers.  Has heeled good 2nd degree burn on me with minimal to no scaring.  It has a natural pain relief and helps in cell heeling and new skin growth.

 

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4 hours ago, arkie said:
2 hours ago, matto said:

I use pure chlorophyl I get it from my chiropractor it is amazing stuff.  The US army was going to use it in World War II but did not want the dark green goo on it's soldiers.  Has heeled good 2nd degree burn on me with minimal to no scaring.  It has a natural pain relief and helps in cell heeling and new skin growth.

 

I use the aloe gel quite a lot............DUH!!!!!

Maybe Arkie should give it a try he seems to use a lot of aloe. Chlorophyll might help him turn a new leaf.

Frosty The Lucky.

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If there is such a thing as a "quench bucket", it seems it is necessarily something dedicated to hardening and tempering.  I don't have one.  What I have is a slack tub. Contrary to what some people here seem to think, I have never seen a professional blacksmith shop without one.  They are particularly essential if you are forging with gas because forges running that fuel seem to heat up everything.  You need a slack tub to isolate the heat to the area you want to work on.  Even something as simple as forging a point is made easier if the entire piece of stock is not flopping around because 12 inches of it are red hot, when all you need is one inch.  When using coal or coke, my preferred fuels, it is still often necessary to use it to isolate heat, cool tongs and tools and to control the spread of the fire.  

Although I understand that the carbon content of A36 can vary, I have never encountered a problem with quenching it.  If brittleness is a concern, you just let your work normalize at ambient temperature after your last heat.  I've been using it for 25 years without any trouble.

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17 hours ago, arkie said:

I'm about to get my choloro-FILL of it......:P   (touche')

I see you've made the synthesis, get a picture. (tag)

Frosty The Lucky.

Where do you get the ointment Matto? I'm up for trying new stuff.

Frosty The Lucky.

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On 12/30/2015 at 9:19 PM, Frosty said:

Maybe Arkie should give it a try he seems to use a lot of aloe. Chlorophyll might help him turn a new leaf.

Frosty The Lucky.

Flash!!!  Update!!!  I was forging two identical pieces today.  Go-by piece was cold.  Laid them side by side to see if they were coming out the same.  Don't have to tell you what happened next..........:(

Aloe.... again.  Gotta try that chloro-FILL !!!!!!

 

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<sigh> Did you see a puff of flame? Last time I grabbed something TOO hot I saw the flame puff out around the piece. Very superficial 4th. Charred and shiny fingers, no finger prints and a FAST dive for the slack bucket. No, it didn't take me long to look at that piece, no siree. Fortunately Pat has Silvadine on the shelf being a caster.

I broke a very ingrained rule of mine, a couple actually. There were a number of guys working per station at a meeting and I got slack. I ASSUMED everybody was letting work cool before putting it on the bench. and my biggest blunder I didn't follow the "hesitate before touching" rule.

Always but ALWAYS hesitate a couple inches fro the piece BEFORE you touch it, then approach slowly. Give your fingers a moment to feel heat before grabbing stuff. Even then around 250f. things are getting hot enough to burn you if you pick it up and at around 400f will stick to you like a steak in a dry frying pan.

Then again anyone practicing this craft IS going to get burned, bruised, shed a little blood and lots of sweat just as a carpenter will get splinters. It all goes with the craft.

Frosty The Lucky.

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5 hours ago, Frosty said:

<sigh> Did you see a puff of flame? Last time I grabbed something TOO hot I saw the flame puff out around the piece. Very superficial 4th. Charred and shiny fingers, no finger prints and a FAST dive for the slack bucket. No, it didn't take me long to look at that piece, no siree.

Frosty The Lucky.

No flames, thank goodness.  Same as yours...no fingerprints.  Trying to play cards today, kinda hard to deal and work with the cards without them!!!  Two major causes of burns tends to be inattention to what's hot and what's not, and being in a hurry.  The latter will git 'ya everytime.

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Galvanized mop bucket for me, raised up on chunk of Ibeam (my old makeshift anvil) so the top of the bucket is level with the anvil and forge table. I always keep an eye out for metal buckets at the scrap yard and garage sales, those little Mexican beer pails are useful for clinker and ash. Gotta get me an aluminum beer keg now!

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