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T Burner Illustrated Directions


Frosty

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I believe this is the case. The air flow doesn't pass the jet lengthwise and largely intakes down stream from it so whatever turbulence the jet imparts is minimal.

Frosty The Lucky.

I agree; since the air doesn't pass along side the tip, tapering would be pointless; don't bother.

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Frosty, I noticed on your doc you had a pic of one of your forges that had burners coming in at a 45 angle and mounting with floor flanges to the forge. Is there a particular design advantage to this vs. straight down into the forge as shown in a latter picture in the document. 

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I have a question frosty . In the pictures the burner pdf.at the bottom of the page . You have to forges that are complete.one looks like a clamshell 4burner and the other is a two burner.they have a floor flange directly at the base. So my question is how does the burner flare incorporate into that. Fittings go like this 1" by 3/4 tee,6" nipple. Street 45. And then floor flange. I'm interested in building this design and need to know what's on the inside.thanks. I,m sorry to ask something that's been asked before but I didn't understand what you said In a later post about thread protectors inside

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Wow, I've been away from this thread for a bit. I don't really put flares on my personal burners, not really. The 4 burner shop forge isn't a clam shell, it's a variable volume model, the jack lifts the lid so I can arrange the partition fire bricks to whatever shape or size I need. Those burners have thread protectors on the nozzle end as sacrificial ends to insert in the refractory liner. I dipped one in kaolin clay slip I had mixed up some years back, the inside threads hold the kaolin nicely and they haven't burned out in probably 18 years now.

The new forge with the burners tilted back at 45* and attached with a floor flange is a current experiment. the initial aim is to get the air intakes as far from the door as possible to avoid it inhaling it's own exhaust. I've been playing around with casting a FAN shaped flare with the castable refractory but am still tinkering with getting them to work. I changed too many things at once to make for easy trouble shooting.

Frosty The Lucky.

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FC: How a burner works is how it works. The volume it will bring to the desired temperature depends on volume and shape of the chamber. You need to do a little math buddy here's your numbers. One well tuned 3/4" T burner will bring 300-350 cu/in to welding temperature.

There is a wider variation depending on a number of factors mostly elevation, barometric pressure and how you hold your tongue. None of which I can offer an opinion on from here.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Well I cannot get my Freon tank forge up to welding temps I can get it to a low yellow or bright orange but I cannot get that good white heat it takes to weld. From everything I have been told a smaller chamber doesn't have the space for the flame to do its full effect. I know my flame extends all the way down and hits the firebrick. It works great but just not the heat to weld with 

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On January 25, 2016 at 7:59 PM, Frosty said:

You can turn it down that low no problem, you just can't turn them up higher than they'll go.

Frosty The Lucky.

Oh ok. So if the burner can turn down the heat of the forge, why do some put needle valves on the line? Hey must do something different I imagine. This burner seems like a much better option than others, and seems much cheaper. I think I would be able to make this for $20 no problem. Thanks

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People who use needle valves don't use regulators. If you have a reg you can adjust the flame more easily and reliably than a needle valve.

I thought you'd read more about these things than that. Perhaps you SHOULD pull up a chair, pack a snack and read the propane forge and burner sections. This is really REALLY basic. At least read the label on a needle valve package .

Frosty The Lucky.

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Hi frosty. I see in your off that you attach your burner to a connected that is connected to the forge with a flare. My question is that I am making a freon forge, and I am going to have my burner connected to a flare that's cut on a 45 and welded to the forge. Does this mean that I can just skip the elbow and flange step and put the piping in my connector? Thanks

On 1/26/2016 at 6:29 PM, Frosty said:

People who use needle valves don't use regulators.

Yeah I guess you are right. You would be shocked how much I researched on gas forges and burners! This hasn't came up in my research, but I should probobly research some more. Thanks

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2 hours ago, Forging Carver said:

Hi frosty. I see in your off that you attach your burner to a connected that is connected to the forge with a flare. My question is that I am making a freon forge, and I am going to have my burner connected to a flare that's cut on a 45 and welded to the forge. Does this mean that I can just skip the elbow and flange step and put the piping in my connector? Thanks

 

Uh . . . burner attached to a connected that's connected? Please proof read your posts before sending, I can only guess at what you're asking. You use "connected and connector" so many times in one short paragraph it looses it's meaning.

I got this though, No flares on my burners.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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Alright thanks. I really had no idea how to word this so let me try again. I am making a forge out of a freon bottle with Wayne coes directions. On the forge he a flare at a 45 degree to mount the burner onto the forge. This makes the flame twirl in the forge for a more even heat. On your forge, you connect the burner through an elbow connected to a flange. My question is that how would I connect your burner to my mount? Would I just skip using the elbow and flare and attach the straight pipe in my mount, or is there something else you would recommend? Thanks very much and I hope this is more clear.

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Just built one yesterday (Friday) and used it all day today in my foundry furnace, worked like a charm! I have an additional method for drilling the hole, I used my metal lathe and a short nipple to center the tee. Put the nipple in the chuck and center that first (wish I had a 3 jaw, would have made this a lot quicker), screw the tee on the short nipple and use the tailstock to drill the hole. I also used the tailstock to help center the tap to start the threads. I also used my lathe and removed the threads on the two air intake sides of the tee to improve airflow. I had to improvise as to how to hold the mig tip however. I couldn't find the 1/8th" flare fitting, so I enlarged the threading in the tee to allow a 1/8" pipe nipple to extend a ways into the tee. I then took a 1/8" flare nut and tapped it 1/4x28 for the mig tip. Screwed the flare nut onto the nipple inside the tee. I'll try to get a pic of that tomorrow. I also had to cut the mig tip about in half to tune it. I'll be making more of these!

20160129_194924.jpg

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1 hour ago, OddDuck said:

 (wish I had a 3 jaw, would have made this a lot quicker)

there is a technique to centering a 4 jaw chuck, it is not just random guesswork. I line one jaw up with the dial gauge (i find it easiest to have it horizontal so I can work across the lathe with the chuck key without moving the head), read or zero the dial then spin the head 180 read the dial and calculate how far the piece needs to move on that axis. You should know how far a quarter turn of the chuck key moves the piece and you can also watch the dial gauge close in on the target number. repeat the process with the other axis. from there it is just tweak and tighten to get the last couple of thou.

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On 1/28/2016 at 3:26 AM, Forging Carver said:

Alright thanks. I really had no idea how to word this so let me try again. I am making a forge out of a freon bottle with Wayne coes directions. On the forge he a flare at a 45 degree to mount the burner onto the forge. This makes the flame twirl in the forge for a more even heat. On your forge, you connect the burner through an elbow connected to a flange. My question is that how would I connect your burner to my mount? Would I just skip using the elbow and flare and attach the straight pipe in my mount, or is there something else you would recommend? Thanks very much and I hope this is more clear.

Got it, that's much clearer. That's my latest forge so nothing about how it's attached to the forge counts in what you're building. Follow the basic ratios and hook it up with a straight tube. A flare won't mess anything up just change how you tune it a little.

Orienting (aiming) the burner flame tangential to the forge liner is a GOOD thing for a number of reasons. First it makes for much more even temperature in the chamber. Secondly it really improves the refractory life. Being IN a propane flame that's actively combusting (inside the primary or secondary flame zones) is high temperature chemistry and tends to eat things.

 

I don't even plug my lathe in to make T burners I hand turn it. I don't clean the threads out of the intake ports though.

I got my last 1/8" MPT - 1/4" flare fittings at Grainger in Anchorage. However if you have a lathe you can use any fitting you can hook up to the fuel feed. I put mine together using the lathe from start to finish without removing the burner. This keeps everything perfectly aligned. I drill and tap for the fitting, screw it in and drill and tap it for the mig tip. That's it, it's finished except for screwing the mig tip in and tuning.

When I had a propane tank in the connex where my lathe is I could make one in under 15 minutes including tuning it. I actually THOUGHT about tuning it IN the lathe, fire it down the spindle of the lathe. No, I NEVER seriously thought about it but the thought did cross my mind.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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Frosty

At the last meeting Tristan had a 1/2" T burner. The T fitting looked like it was 1/2"on all three sides or were the air intakes 3/4". I have a .025 mig tip already and some 1/2" nipples. I want to try and get one setup tomorrow. I'm tired of the howl from the turbo torch and wearing earmuffs when using my small brick forge

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I don't know, I've never looked at Tristan's 1/2" burner closely it runs very nicely and I stopped looking. Tristan's been online a lot organizing the Mark Aspery clinic so he'll see your email right away if you shoot him one. I'd have to ask too.

I started using larger intake ports because more air meant more fuel per second at a lower velocity and that means more heat per second in the forge.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Okay, here's the pics of the burner, hopefully they are reasonably clear. The last pic probably doesn't show it very well, but I made the flare out of a 3/4" coupler, I chucked it up in the lathe also and bored out the threads on one end of the coupler.

20160131_121853.jpg

20160131_122008.jpg

20160131_122014.jpg

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