lloe01 Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 (edited) Warning, lots of photos: I bought a Mayer 25lb hammer about a month ago. It definitely needs some work.Looking at it, it had a bunch of brazing performed on it and didn't have many bolts. It looks like I have a lot of work.The first thing I noticed was some brazing on the flywheel and a big ring had been sweated onto the flywheel. Pins were welded to the ram while both toggle links were connected. In order to remove the toggle links I have to cut the pins out of the ram. What I thought was a spring turned out to be a tubular shaped piece of rubber. Right, no spring. The toggle arms are homemade and they held the rubber tube. The knuckle on the right toggle arm was worn and in bad shape. Edited August 9, 2015 by lloe01 Removed some big photo files Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Augus7us Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Very cool lloe thanks for documenting it. I will be watching it as you progress. I'd like to see some photos of the clutch and lever assembly as I think that may be the only area on mine that has been modified. Just not enough out there to compare it to. If you get a chance post some photos up. Likewise if you need any of mine just let me know. -Clint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 Clint, here is the clutch area Here are the pitman and cross head. The pitman is in bad shape and the cross head is upside down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 I will mainly be working on the front side and the clutch works well so I will be leaving it alone. I do want to update the tread rod as there is a whole bunch of slack there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 As I recall some of the Bradley hammers use rubber "springs"; but that's definitely a retrofit on the Mayer and probably not engineered properly for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Thomas, I'd never heard of that. It shocked me when I finally realized there wasn't a spring. At first I thought the spring had shattered in the tube. But, nope, rubber tube :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Augus7us Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Thanks lloe that looks a lot like mine so maybe it wasn't modified after all. May just be that its different on some or all the Little Giants which is what I was comparing it to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Thanks lloe that looks a lot like mine so maybe it wasn't modified after all. May just be that its different on some or all the Little Giants which is what I was comparing it to.it does look different from the LGs. I thought the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
781 Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 The clutch looks like iron on cast iron. I had a factory hammer with that set up. Bradley hammers have rubber cushions. Did you run the hammer before you tore it apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Augus7us Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Mine has one as well I think Richard Kern referred to it as linoleum in his book. It may be there mine separated and got pushed back on the clutch cone so it looked like it wasn't there. In fact I was going to ask if folks glue them to keep them in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 The clutch looks like iron on cast iron. I had a factory hammer with that set up. Bradley hammers have rubber cushions. Did you run the hammer before you tore it apart. I did run it for a couple minutes after I got it. It ran well, but I was concerned with the parts and felt it would be safer to repair it before I started using it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 I called Roger at LittleGiant and he wanted me to send him my shipping info and some pics of the hammer.I hope he has the parts I need He said he would get back to me tomorrow. Woohoo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 (edited) Just talked to Roger.i ordered:2 - H12 Toggle Arm for Old Style1 - H15 Spring2 - H18 Lower Toggle Pin: Standard .625 Diameter2 - Tension Adjusting KnuckleThey are in the mail and I should get them in a few days.Once I get those, Roger said we will need to make measurements and then customize any other parts I need.He did say to place a 1-inch block between the dies to take proper measurements.I have some metal cutting to do to get the old Toggle links removed from the ram. The old links were placed on the pin and then the pin was welded to the ram.This should be fun Edited August 18, 2015 by lloe01 Corrected spelling error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Ooh, that's a pricey order of parts there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozzy Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I noticed the V belt in place of the original flat belt. Although it's a bit bigger investment, on the re-hab of a C. 1910 keyseater that was designed for a leather belt I used a wide flat cogged belt instead. It requires a toothed pulley on the motor side but acts as a flat belt on the machine side. Seems to work extremely well, perfect tracking, and looks a little bit more like it was originally intended to.Just passing it on in case you're not happy with the current belt and think spending a few dollars is worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Ooh, that's a pricey order of parts there! I wanted to get a new pitman and cross head, but Roger said he didn't have anything that would fit it. That would have made it even more expensive. Of course, I paid $800 for it knowing I would have to do some repair. Once it is running again, it still will be pretty cheap, I hope Kozzy, I will keep it in mind in case it doesn't pull as well as I think it should.Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 (edited) I just cleaned up the pitman and cross head. They had so much grease that I didn't discover they had both been broken and brazed at some time in their use life.Anyone have a spare Mayers/Moloch cross head and/or pitman?Notice the wearing of the bolt head on the cross Head? I will have to check the Flywheel to see where it was rubbing. Larry Edited August 21, 2015 by lloe01 Added more text. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 22, 2015 Author Share Posted August 22, 2015 The parts came in today, yay!But, while the new parts are awesome, they don't seem to fit. In fact, I can't drill them out to fit the crosshead because there wouldn't be much left to the upper ears of the arms!sheesh! Help?!?! Any ideas, anyone? I'm thinking about drilling out the original crosshead pins to the size of the new ears of the upper arms and using them as sleeves for pins that do fit the new arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Bushings.They make it easier to get oil to the bearing surfaces and excellent sacrificial wear surfaces so you never run into worn ears again. Buy a few extras so there are some on the shelf in case.That isn't a real problem it's a normal adjustment for wear and tear, don't sweat it.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 22, 2015 Author Share Posted August 22, 2015 (edited) Frosty, you are a genius! Bushings! Brilliant!Looks like they need to be 3/4" OD, 1/2" ID and .4" long. Edited August 22, 2015 by lloe01 Added dimensions for bushings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Frosty, you are a genius! Bushings! Brilliant!Looks like they need to be 3/4" OD, 1/2" ID and .4" long. Ah, hardly genius it's years of experience keeping heavy use machinery functioning. Of course I'll graciously take credit for thinking of it for this application. Keep posting your problems with pics, I'm not the only one with experience doing this kind of stuff.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 23, 2015 Author Share Posted August 23, 2015 (edited) Ok, the ears of the arms are 3/4" thick. The ears on the crosshead are only .71" apart. I cannot grind the crosshead ears as they don't have a whole bunch of metal of them. Being the crosshead ears have been brazed, that bothers me too, if I was to heat them up to bend them out a little.So, is it ok to remove some metal from the ears of the arms? Edited August 23, 2015 by lloe01 Corrected measurement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 23, 2015 Author Share Posted August 23, 2015 On one side, there is enough room. It is only on one side where the ear isn't wide enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 Fabricate a new crosshead. Keep the centerline of all moving parts as close as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 (edited) Jeremy,I would love to fabricate a new crosshead, but I'm not a machinist. I don't have the measurements to give to anyone, either.It is a good idea, though.ThanksI measured the pitman at the bottom. It is .98" diameter. Anyone know if that is the correct measurement for the Mayer 25lb?Of course, if anyone has a spare crosshead for a Mayer/Moloch 25lb, I am interested. Edited August 24, 2015 by lloe01 Added measurement of pitman and plea for spare crosshead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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