Solomon Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 I made this gas torch and wanted a second opinion. The one running in the forge is 15mm(1/2 inchish) the other torch 20mm(3/4 inch) can be screwed onto the same jet assembly. It heats the forge ok but was wondering about the air/gas mix tuning(I've put a choke on since taking the photo). I rearranged the forge since this photo as well because i think my ratio was out it was 140cu/in with the 1/2 inch burner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 Why do you have the elbow on the outlet end? It's burning much too rich and producing lots and LOTS of carbon monoxide. I sure hope you're messing with this outdoors.Search the IFI "gas forge" section for burner designs that work. That's not a bad first attempt but I wouldn't know where to tell you to start tuning it. It'd much be faster and easier to build a "Sidearm" or "T" burner and put it to work.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 I would 2nd frosty on that and please think about leaving(soaking) it in cheap vinegar overnight to remove the galvanizing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Good catch Ian, I missed the galvy pipe. Strip it in vinegar or buy black iron pipe. Tuned properly these burners will burn the zinc off and zinc oxide is really bad to breath.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solomon Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 The elbow keeps the flame on the torch as well as a coupler seemed to and I liked that I could mount it with the gas line well away from the forge. I looked at T burners again, didn't realise the jet moved in and out. Thought it was tuned with pressure and choke. I guess my chokes redundant then if its too rich. Do T burners and sidearms usually have the jet past the air intake so the air is sucked in from behind the jet?I can't get black iron here but i'll put in vinegar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 I'm in the process of a third redesign of the T and the drawings on Iforge are my first. As the current design stands I tune the flame by trimming the mig tip jet. The newest incarnation will be able to move back and forth for fine tuning. Once you get one properly tuned the induction curve is very flat so increasing or decreasing the propane pressure doesn't affect the air fuel ratio significantly.Regardless a lot of guys put cokes on burners, it's the best way I know for controlling the forge atmosphere, sometimes you may need a more or less reducing fire.Frosty The Lucky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 I'm trying posting several shorter replies hoping to avoid the Forbidden error message.The commercially manufactured induction devices most of our naturally aspirated burners are based on place the jet about the same diameter as the burner tube at it's narrowest back from it. This puts the jet tip in the T about 3/4" back from the point the pipe nipple begins.Bear in mind commercially made induction devices have the entire tube tapered, not just a flare or coupler like our home builds. The full length flare makes for a VERY strong induction/low pressure so they operate at much lower pressure, their jets are usually right under the choke plate and they draw so strongly they need a choke plate. Making a full length tapered tube isn't very practical for the home build so the ratios were tweaked till we have a pretty easy to build set of designs.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 So where are the pictures/drawings? always keen to try something new!As for the dreaded 'forbidden ' message, I can live(not happily) with it , I just wish there was some way to 'recover' the long 'laboriously typed posts', I'm usually so bummed out I just shut down and find something else to do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 My browser, google chrome running on Kubuntu, if I back arrow from the forbidden page and go down the the reply area and click on it it will restore my original writing that I can then copy to somewhere safe as I have never had any luck trying to repost it until I have totally exited and then came back in and do a gripe post and edit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 I'll try backing out to see if it'll work Thomas.These are the guys I'm going to start complaining to though. https://community.invisionpower.com/Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solomon Posted July 8, 2015 Author Share Posted July 8, 2015 Bought a thread tap and put a .9mm (.035") mig tip in the plug. Photo is of 3/4" burner. I know I know "just follow the instructions to make a T burner" maybe after a few more fails.But how's this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timgunn1962 Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 If you've got an easy way of changing gas jets, you've won the first battle.When I have built burners from scratch using MIG tips, I've started with a size that's too small (gives a lean, Oxidizing flame with the choke fully open) and opened it up with a microdrill set in a pinvice, one drill size at a time, testing at each size. Initially, it will get hotter as you open up the jet. At some point, it will start to get cooler. When it does, drill out a new mig tip to the hottest size and fit it. You can then go progressively cooler and more reducing by closing down the choke. Use a fixed value for gas pressure throughout the jet tuning. Once the jet is right, you can play with pressure and choke settings.I use a type S thermocouple to measure the temperature, which might be considered cheating. If you tune at a constant but fairly low pressure and used a fixed thermocouple location in a cooler part of the forge, you can get away with a much cheaper type K, and if you can judge temperature reasonably well by eye, you don't need a thermocouple at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 That looks like a pretty neutral flame, just a bit rich but that's a good thing in a forge. Of course making the 90* bend could be changing the flame's shape enough I'm misreading it a little.These things aren't complicated just a little finicky, if you have a design that works why change? If that's what I came up with first, that's what I'd be running now.If you want to lean the flame trim the tip back from the throat a LITTLE at a time.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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