Jump to content
I Forge Iron

chromium molybdenium


Recommended Posts

Yeah, it's good stuff whatever it turns out to really be. If you find out the manufacturer you should be able to Google it and find out what they're using for an alloy. Sooner or later you'll run into something that knowing the actual alloy will matter.

I doubt you'll need a dozen a week though. On the other hand you might come up with the golden gizmo. That thing you can make easily and quickly but everybody else just HAS to have. Golden Gizmos allow the craft to pay it's own way for you.

Find out what else they toss in the dumpster, you never know what good scrounge is going to the scrapper.

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, not as hard as spring but good stuff. 

​how is that?  5160 spring?  The carbon is almost close, chrome is close, so those elements to the steels  are about the same to work, so it seems like you are saying the addition of Moly makes it softer?>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was attempting to clarify your comparing spring steel (maybe  5160) to the chrome/moly 4140. It seems that you said the 4140 is not as hard ? I was commenting there is not much dif, but the 4140 should be harder to work  because of the moly, but I also admit its not by much

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A lot of worrying about hypothetical numbers.

I suppose that's human nature, ... in the "Information Age".

Sure, ... if you have a specific USE in mind, ... then you might want to choose a specific material for that use, ... but otherwise, ... it's either "mild" steel, ... or "tool/alloy" steel.

( If somebody hits you in the head with a rock, ... does it really matter if it was Limestone, ... or Marble ? )

 

.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What do you have in mind to make? Will you be making a lot of tools that require special properties, hardness,  toughness, wear resistance, etc.?

Making tools for your shop is one thing and you'll want to have steel on hand once you have the tools you think you'll need. You WILL need or want more tools so having some appropriate steel on hand is a good thing. Unless you're going to start making tools for the market you won't need a large stockpile. Coil spring is good for things like tongs, punches, chisels, drifts, pry bars, blades, etc. Leaf spring is good stock as well but not as widely useful as coil spring. Keeping a couple few coil springs around comes in handy. Just be aware there is a LOT of stock in a coil spring so you don't need a LOT of them.

The king pins on the other hand aren't as useful for general tool stock. It's more suitable for hammers, hardies, etc. Not because the steel isn't good for tongs, punches, etc. but the shape would require a LOT of forging to draw down to tong, punch, etc. size.

A lot of the utility of these steels will be up to you to determine. We're casting educated guesses as to what alloy things like king pins and even springs are made from. the way the specifications are determined for use is changing from the old school analysis spec where the contents of the alloy were specified to the modern performance spec where as long as it has the minimum strength, toughness, etc. it's good.

The modern spec standards is making it more important we learn to test scrounged steel in our shops to determine if it will perform as we need.

Pretty vague I know but that's where we're at now.

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dont overlook torsan bars or antisway bars, as they are "spring" steel. The stearing linkages, axles and half shaves are good stuff as well. Linkages make good stock for tongs and axles make good hammers, anvil tools and top tools. 

Not to mention all the castable aluminum aloys used in cars today (hint, GM uses magnisium under the dash, on might want to scrape of a few bits and light it of first to make sure, mag in your foundry could get you on the evening news... 

Testing is somthing old time smiths did with every thing, as the proces of steel making was moor art than science, now unless you by certified new steel it is back to the same, even "mild steel" (now A36 insted of 1018) is made with mixed scrap to a minimum streght spec and should be tested (just drill the stuff, 3 out of 4 holes will be easy, the forth will be like drilling spring) nothing like forging a nice horsehead on a peice of A36, go for a little tweek cold and have the head break off (kerkhart shoes will do it to you everytime, lol) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...