JRigoni Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 For a couple years I've wanted a large industrial swage block. Having no luck finding a good quality block with the shapes that I want, I went down the path of building one from scratch. I drew up plans for a block 18"x18"x4" A36 mild steel. The benefits of a mild steel block are several. I can repair it easier. I can weld to the block and it also will be stronger than the cast iron blocks 100 yrs. ago. I kept my block square to help with sledgehammer work, (moving and striking around the block). I did a little research in the Houston area for routes to go about cutting out the 18 shapes. Here are the stats:1. 18x18x4" wire EDM. $12,0002. 18x18x4" waterjet. $2,8003. 18x18x2 3/4" waterjet. $2,2804. 18x18x2"(two plates that I would weld together making 4") $1,525 each. I reduced the thickness to 3" to both save on cost and improve accuracy. I ended up using waterjet cutting which ended up being the only way to cut the shapes cleanly. Both oxy-fuel and plasma cutting shops were not able to accurately cut objects that small and thru that thick of a plate. The outside, yes, but not the interior. I also contacted shops to drill/mill out the objects and they also turned the job down due to high cost. I was referred to a local smith, Lee Lanford in Austin who could cut the block on the waterjet. After picking up the block, it looked great. The profiles of each hole were accurate (on the top) and clean. The waterjet washes out a little on the underside, which can be cleaned with files. I fabricated the base with 3/8" angle iron and forged the rivets from 1/2." Now this beast is ready for some sledgehammer work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRigoni Posted March 28, 2015 Author Share Posted March 28, 2015 Not sure how to change the order of the photos, sorry about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anachronist58 Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 wonderful execution and presentation. I want one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 No edge shapes? I have an old Lancaster pattern swage block and almost the only shapes I use are the swage dies on the edges.That's a beautiful tool, I think it'll serve you and your grandchildren well. Well done.Frosty The Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 (edited) OA can make clean cuts if set up right. Corners may not be super sharp, but the main cut is good. These are a couple my Dad burned out of scrap plate. The plan was to drill the smaller holes. I may use the blank space for depressions - if I ever need a swage block for a project. Edited March 28, 2015 by BIGGUNDOCTOR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmoothBore Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 "Now this beast is ready for some sledgehammer work" The Block might be, ... but I can't help but "second guess" the design of the stand.Rivets seem like an odd choice, for withstanding the "shear" loads that heavy Hammering will generate.And I'd think the ends of the Legs, ( and the Floor ) would benefit greatly, from the addition of some 1/2" or thicker, "Foot Pads", ... to spread the load a bit. For what it's worth ..... . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Good call on the riveted joints Smoothbore that went right past me. They're a definite failure point. I'm thinking a length of angle riveted inside the main leg from the floor to butt against the bottom of the frame will stop shearing action, just like a cripple on a window or door frame in a wall.Something that really struck me but I forgot to comment about is the rivet header. It's turning out some gorgeous rivets, just plain beautiful.Frosty The Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRigoni Posted March 28, 2015 Author Share Posted March 28, 2015 Thanks everybody! Hmm, I used 1/2" rivets, so 8" total of holding material. I'll run a weld underneath just in case of shearing. The die for the rivets was turned from a large hex bolt. I then heated up the face and smashed a 7/8" ball bearing into it. Chucked it back into the lathe to turn it down to the proper depth. I can use the ball bearing to align it under the fly press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 It's awesome. Do you plan to cut swages into the edges? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Rivet Header, I was wondering what some of the pictures were showing.I would second the pads on the feet. I agree that with 16 half inch rivets it should be pretty strong, but over time they can get beat down if this gets a lot of use under heavy hammering.Overall it looks really nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 You're a . . . machinist!? NAW never would've figured that. <grin> My Father was a metal spinner and machinist, I grew up working in his shop. I've always appreciated precision work, it shows in the flawless fit and finish. Part of why I took up blacksmithing was to escape living with really tight tolerances, it was like a vacation.Well, that and you gotta play with fire and hit things with hammers.Frosty The Lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmoothBore Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 I'm thinking a length of angle riveted inside the main leg from the floor to butt against the bottom of the frame will stop shearing actionSomething that really struck me but I forgot to comment about is the rivet header. It's turning out some gorgeous rivets, just plain beautiful.Frosty The Lucky.That was my exact thought, as well.And ditto on the nice rivets, too. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRigoni Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Thanks everybody, I took your suggestion and reinforced the underside with welds but nothing visible from the outside. I thought I'd share some drifts I've made for the block. I turned them on the lathe, filed to round and case hardened two of them. The middle one is 4140, which was a pain to machine and file. Edited April 1, 2015 by JRigoni Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Very impressive. The the bevel at the top is a very nice touch! Are you thinking about getting a taper attachment for your lathe? Most of my drifts are old structural steel bullpins; just picked up one two weeks ago at the fleamarket for US$3. (one of those rare, strange days when folks set their prices reasonable! Broad Axe head in decent condition $5, bullpin $3, etc...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Kicking the compound around will do tapers too, but slower than a taper attachment. The one on my Monarch will do 18" in one set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRigoni Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 thanks, I might buy a taper attachment in the future, but this will have to do for now. The largest drift was made of some type of hardening tool steel. I heated it up in the forge and slowly cooled to anneal, and it still ruined two of my large files, gouged in the teeth. Even when I turned it down, it left a rainbow sheen on the surface. I ended up using the compound at and angle and worked 3" at a time to get the rest cut. I'm working on forging oval drifts this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 You do beautiful work, hoss. Absolutely stellar kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kubiack Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 (edited) Thanks for posting. I always enjoy seeing your work and this is just as outstanding as the rest. What sizes are the round and square holes? Is there much taper from the top of the wholes to the bottom?I also have been wanting an industrial swage block and have not been able to find anything acceptable. Where did you buy the steel plate?Nice looking double calipers can you post some more pictures of them? Edited April 7, 2015 by kubiack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRigoni Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 Thank you, the holes start at 3/4" and go up 1/4" increments to 2 1/2" for both square and round. The waterjet isn't perfect. The holes are accurate on the top, but wash out at the bottom. It isn't an issue, so long as the block is used only on one side. The calipers I had to re-make. If each arm has a rivet, then each can be tightened independently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRigoni Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 A few people have been asking for the file to make one of these blocks. I'm happy to share my design, and have posted it on my site here: http://www.rigoniironworks.com/building-an-industrial-swage-block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 What was the final cost all in then JR? It looks lovely but going by the numbers on the first post that was one xxxx of an investment... Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRigoni Posted December 27, 2015 Author Share Posted December 27, 2015 The cost of waterjet cutting was around $1,450. Total cost: $1,800. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notownkid Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Very nice I could use one just like it. I have a small one with the edges cut so wouldn't need to do another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 23 hours ago, JRigoni said: The cost of waterjet cutting was around $1,450. Total cost: $1,800. My goodness. The tight so and so in me is wincing. But You certainly got an excellent tool. All the best Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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