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Question about forge I just aquired


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Gents,

I am new to this site, and also new to blacksmithing. Having and being around horses all my life, about the only knowledge I have has been gained by watching farriers.

Although I have quite a bit of experience pounding nails into wood, I have never learned how to pound and/or form metal. Recently I picked up an old lever crank portable forge, or "Rivet" forge as I believe some call it. I replaced the wood pump handle, and purchased a new leather drive belt, and it is blowing great. I am curious if any of you knowledgeable gents can help me figure out who manufactured this forge, and about when it was made. On the exterior side of the of the "Pot", it has the name AZTEC on it. I will try and attach some photos. I cant wait to fire this up and start taking my first step!

 

Thanks for your help!

 

Knucklebuster 

Aztec Forge - Picture #1.jpg

Aztec Forge - Picture #2.jpg

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Greetings Nuckle,

Not familiar with that brand but a typical rivet forge common to Buffolo Forge and Champion.  Your handle is way too long say about by 16 inches. Give some consideration to lubricant for the internal pawl and other shafts and moving parts .. Looks pretty rusty... Also consider some refractory or clay in the bowl. They are prone to cracks.  It will serve you well if you learn about it.. Good luck.

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

 

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Thanks for the feedback and tips Jim! I used WD on just about everything that I could get the little WD nozzle tip in to, and all are moving parts are moving and spinning quite well. As far as the handle goes, I used the old one that was on there (Not sure if original or replacement) as my template, and although my wheelbarrow handle was about 1/4" thicker, I cut it to length and set it the same as the old one that was on there. Because I'm a rookie to this trade, I have no idea as to what the overall length of the "Original" handle should be.

Also, could you suggest a place where I can get "refractory" or "clay" for the bowl?  

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WD is good for freeing things up but not such a good lube. Plain old motor oil is better, 3 in 1 works a treat too. The gearing in the blower will want a few drops every once in a while. Don't try filling the case with oil unless you LIKE big oil stains on the floor or lawn. They only look like they're supposed to be filled to a level. Give it 4-5 drops while gently cranking at the start of a session, well okay a dozen drops won't hurt but a whole squirt is a little excessive. I have stains on the floor to prove it.

Yeah, I THINK the handle MIGHT have been replaced a time or 50. Don't sweat it, the first replacement probably wasn't the same as the factory model. Heck, it may have been shipped without a handle, wood is everywhere so why spend money shipping a stick? I'll be a handy willow branch would look cool, especially if it were diamond willow. Hmmmm?

Frosty The Lucky.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

A student of mine has one. He uses it often and is so fed up and frustrated he has been looking for an actual forge.  He thought he was doing ok until he used my table top forge with fire pot/clinker breaker/champion 400 blower. The advertisement says light duty and occasional use forge. 

I think he would be ok if it was a crank blower even w/o the table top and the fire pot.  I have one as such and love it. You just gotta build up the fire deep-like by heaping up green coal (in your case charcoal) around the OD of the fire ball.  W/o a fire pot it can cause you to loose interest cuz it be three inches deep and then you shove your work into that and pull it out several times. Now it is 2" deep if lucky or even less and you cuss it and try to rake it back up and you mess about and fool around and go indoors to watch Dukes of Hazard. 

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Hello everyone.  New member here, still haven't learned my way around the place.  Please forgive me if I'm asking a dumb question or twelve.

I own a forge that is very similar, if not the exact same model, as the one originally posted by Knucklebuster.  I've seen several of these forges, or forges very similar, and they are all missing the heat shield as pictured in the ad posted by Brndngddy.  Does anybody know what these heat shields are made of?  I would assume it's a thin gauge of sheet metal, as none of them seem to have survived.  Are they really necessary for the proper operation of the forge?  I'm guessing the designers knew what they were doing when they put them on there, but I see a lot of people not using them and I was wondering if it's even worth trying to fabricate one.

Thank you for all your help, everyone!

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Hi, jdbjicase; welcome to IFI! Now, get over to the Introduce Yourself page, read the Read This First post, and put up a post about who you are!

Now, regarding your question: that's not so much a heat shield as it is a windscreen: when using one of these beasties out of doors, it can be good to have something to block the wind from blowing the fire around. 

Mine came with a replacement made from an old piece of sheet steel, and I use it more for piling up the reserve supply of coal than for anything else.

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  •  jdb.......jicase....we may have just a bit of the same interest. Please do, tell us about yourself. I picked up a similar forge only with a hand crank blower and a sheet metal pan. I used a worn out plow cutter blade to patch the rusted out bottom in the pan and remounted the cast iron fire pot . I did add the wind screen made from an old metal 5 gal. bucket.       Life is Good               Dave
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Dave, I'm guessing there may be some overlap in our interests.  I don't own any John Deere's, unless you count lawnmowers.  Dad's got a pretty nice older restoration '35 B, among others he's accumulated.  Most of our collection is Case, which explains my screen name.

I figured it was a heat shield because it was near the handle, and being made of wood it would be a good idea to have a shield of some type between the wooden pump handle and the fire.  but I suppose wind break is just as likely, and probably a more accurate description of what it does most of the time.  Are there any real guidelines on how to figure what size you should make your heat shield/wind break?  I'm pretty sure I'm going to run the forge outside most of the time, so it might be a handy addition.

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Any JD is good .......Case is good too. I have an 830 Case in the shop now for power steering repair. Have you got any old plows? I'm still trying to get good at sharping plow shares. But replacement points are hard to come by.              Dave

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Like JHCC said, you will benefit from one outside to control your fire...but mostly it is useful for stacking up coal on the periphery of your fire.  I'd start forging without it just to get going and then add something in a size and shape you desire once you figure out what suits your purpose.  

I put temporary shields up on my forge and have only recently determined what I actually want for a permanent fixture.  Don't worry about design until you figure out what you really need.  Have fun!

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