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Chop off saw vs bandsaw


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Hi all

 

I have only ever used bandsaws for cutting my stock and i am now setting up a workshop and need one of my own. But I recently came across chop saws that seem to fill the same niche e.g. :

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-240V-Metal-Cutting-Chop/dp/B00004YOLV/ref=sr_1_6?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1422035910&sr=1-6&keywords=makita+Metal+Cutting+Discs

 

The claims made for the modern versions of these tools seem to be compelling - faster cutting, no burrs or sparks and more economic to run. 

 

Has anyone had any experience with these types of machines? How long did the blades last for you and how did it cope with solid stock?

 

thanks 

 

Andy 

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I have both in my shop, and have to say the band saw is my go to tool, I rarely use the chop saw.  The chop saw I got had a terrible factory disc/blade on it, I replaced it quickly with a much better one - I can't speak to how long it will last since I so rarely use it.  If I'm cutting really thick stock I'll break out the chop saw, but for basic stuff it's the band saw all the way.  For me at least. 

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OK for thin wall tube, pipe & the new steel wall studs, pretty much useless on solid stock. For that you need a 'Cold Saw', and those run into thousands of dollars. As do the big band saws that will cut structural steel.

 

Sorry, the Free Lunch stand is still closed. Costs a lot to run with the big dogs.

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I have both in my shop and I use the carbide tipped "chop saw" a lot for stuff that is solid square or round under 1" ,angle iron up to 3x3x1/4", and 2-1/2 pipe ( all mild steel).  Anything made of stainless, alum, or high carbon (4140) I send thu the band saw.

 

 

The carbide tipped blade makes it a completely different animal then the standard chop saw with abrasive blade, I can cut off a 2" long chunk of 2-1/2" pipe and pick it up bear handed as soon as it fall off the saw.  I used mine daily and get 6 months out of a blade, not production use but steady use.

 

your mileage may very.

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Two words. Apple. Orange........If I want to cut a piece of hardened stock like and old file (un annealed) or thin tubing my choice is the chopper.......Cutting annealed tool steel for say a power hammer die the bandsaw shines and with my Roll In saw I can cut out shapes freehand.......For precise little pieces I've got a 10'' Wilton cold saw......I need em ALL but you may not.....

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The smaller dry saws work fine for tubing, angle, struts, and solid ~1" or less annealed, standard hot rolled or cold rolled. I like them, you just have to make sure its clamped down good and tight, and start the cut right.

The abrasive chops saw for hardened steel, stainless or high alloy, and anything else you want to throw at it.

The horizontal band saw for thicker sections of steel, 2" square, 6" round, or 7 pieces of 1/4"x2" clamped together...

THick sections can also be done on an old power hacksaw, tends to be slow but good...

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Carbide "chop saws" are often called by a number of different names, dry saw, metal cutting saw and so on. They differ in major ways from a standard abrasive chop saw. Biggest is that they run at a much lower RPM. This means you can't simply stick a carbide blade into a similar looking saw ( usually at a much cheaper price) designed to use abrasive blades.

 

As mentioned carbide saws like this work well for thin sections, but not as well on heavier stock. Also you have to use a firm gentle pressure on these or you'll toast the expensive blade pretty quick. If you try and force a cut like many do who are more familiar with abrasive chop saws, or if you don't apply enough pressure, you will strip or dull the teeth.

 

As mentioned also they are not the greatest for hardened stock and some wear resistant steels as the blade usually suffers.

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For years - no matter what brand of abrasive chop saw I used, I always found the Makita blades were by far superior to any others, I use a Porter Cable carbide tipped saw now - no abrasive dust in the shop and much better cuts. The use of the saw is very important to blade longevity. Like others have said - "you need to choose the saw for your situation - and use it within its means".

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I had a Chop Saw but never used it between the noise, dust and sparks. Would take it outside.  The band saw is great for me I can cut metal when the kids are in bed sleeping. Don't have to worry about setting the garage on fire.  The band saw does take a little more practice and tuning to get good results. You have to adjust it when going from tubing to solid stock. I pick mine up for $100.00 used and abused. 

 
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There is no arguing that the band saw is considerably more quiet than either the chop saw, or a dry, or cold saw... But when I am in the shop working by myself, I have the "work tunes" type hearing protection on, so it doesn't bother me anyway;-) You only have to protect the things you would like to keep, and I would like to keep what little hearing I have left...

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Andy,

What do you wish to cut?

What is your "normal" product made from?

 

I went through three Milwaukee chop saws like you have pictures (worm gears usually failed as the teeth had ware over the years).

I have owned eight or so band saws over the years and have three in the shop ...no...the port-o-band makes four.

 

For most architectural work I used the Milwaukee deep throat port-o-band with 44plus inch blade. It has limitations, but for anything 1" and under it was great. I have a 1600 Ellis that I use for most work now..and a carbide blade when needed for coppers and titanium.

 

My chop saw was a 3hp Everett and I gave that to a friend when I got my 5hp Kalamazoo. I have cut 4" square damascus billets on that 5hp when hot........it does make the air chewy so you need to mask yourself.

 

Anything hardened goes on the chop saw.

soft metals which need clean cuts go into the Ellis horizontal saw with carbide blade ($200 each for those blades)

Small cuts as needed are done with the port-o-band....blades are good and cheap on that one and I simply clamp it into the post vise (made a bolt on oversized table for it).

 

 

ALSO...do not discount a plasma torch for cutting plate.

 

I suggest a "get by" with a "deep throat" Milwaukee port-o-band...........then invest in a good larger horizontal/vertical bandsaw.

 

Ric

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snip...

 

For most architectural work I used the Milwaukee deep throat port-o-band with 44plus inch blade. It has limitations, but for anything 1" and under it was great. I have a 1600 Ellis that I use for most work now..and a carbide blade when needed for coppers and titanium.

snip..

 

I suggest a "get by" with a "deep throat" Milwaukee port-o-band...........then invest in a good larger horizontal/vertical bandsaw.

 

Ric

 

Are the Milwaukee Portaband saws you mention the 18volt battery ones or do they do corded ones in the the US?

 

I can only find the battery powered versions, the 44 7/8"  blade one is listed as M18 CBS125….is that the one?

 

Alan

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Hand luggage next trip anyone?

 

 

I'm sure the TSA inspector at the airport will have something to say about a portaband in your carry on luggage sadly. Of course the anvil might raise more eyebrows. I can see you now trying to explain to them that the anvil in the backpack fits in the little carry on sizing box so it should be ok to fly with. Be kind of ugly in the overhead bin though. Thinking about it, it might be kind of neat to see the anvil go thru x-ray though. LOL

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I have found a couple of second hand corded ones advertised and there are some new from Makita which are similarly specified capacity and power wise, any preferences?

 

Most of my angle grinders and corded/rechargeable drills are Makita,  my big Diamond Drill rig is Milwaukee so I know they can both make good stuff.

 

Alan

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Would the hz matter? Would it not just run a bit faster/slower? I wired the forge with 110volt and all my corded tools are 110 so that I can take all my workshop hand power tools when installing on sites. Do not have to have two of everything.

 

Milwaukee evidently did sell them over here at one time, there are a couple on ebay UK and I found one "out of stock" listing on a tool dealer site.

 

Makita may be the best bet now in regard of service and back up as theirs is current.  (excuse the pun! :) )

 

Alan

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  • 3 months later...

I have the carbide Makita chop saw. I use it for everything from 3/8" angle iron to 2" rounds of mild steel. Have also cut quite a bit of mystery carbon steel on it. It is great for cutting accurate thin sections off of 1/2-3/4" plate. Blades hold up for a surprisingly long time, but the vise on the table is pretty cheapo, and though you can adjust the backing plate for angles, it creeps a little, needs to be squared occasionally.

I like the bandsaw for heavier or odd-shaped pieces that are hard to clamp on the chop saw, but for general fabrication with pipe and tubing, the chopsaw is much faster, easier to set stops on, cleaner, and ergonomic to use (sits above counter-height. Loud, but not dusty - it makes a lot of chips. I'd never go back to an abrasive saw.

 

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I'm sure the TSA inspector at the airport will have something to say about a portaband in your carry on luggage sadly. Of course the anvil might raise more eyebrows. I can see you now trying to explain to them that the anvil in the backpack fits in the little carry on sizing box so it should be ok to fly with. Be kind of ugly in the overhead bin though. Thinking about it, it might be kind of neat to see the anvil go thru x-ray though. LOL

​A number of years ago I was on a business trip to Sweden, one of our guys bought an antique Fire Hose nozzle and had it in his luggage wrapped up in a couple towels they spotted it on x-ray and went nuts and called the police etc. when they got done ripping his bag apart and hosing it down he didn't have enough luggage left to fill a paper grocery bag which was what they gave him minus the nozzle to go home with.  When I attended his wake a couple yrs. ago I told his widow I hoped they didn't x-ray his coffin as I put an antique nozzle from my department in there with him, the family had a good laugh at that. 

Edited by notownkid
hadn't finished
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