Jump to content
I Forge Iron

riveting tips ?


Recommended Posts

I was having some difficulty riveting amber beads on a copper penannular brooch and a fried who was a silversmith, (MFA, MWCGSS-London) told me to rivet using a very small crosspeen as the peen would not slid off the rivet and hit the surrounding material as much---worked.

Also cut the rivet to the correct size!!!! (usually allot 1.5 diameter of rivet shaft for the head to be peened)

If you are trying to keep the surrounding material unpeened masking tape with a hole punched in it for the rivet head to be created helps.

If you do not have a rivet set to hold the already domed end, make one by using the proper sized drill bit on a spare piece of steel. Note taking a ball bearing and walloping it in the predrilled hole can help dome it better...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally, I always try to rivet using an oxy-acetylene torch for the heat, but I guess that would  mean  you needed a fourth hand.  Kidding aside you should be able to prop the assembly up on your anvil somehow such that you only need to support the whole thing with one hand. Heat the rivet shaft with the torch, set it down, pick up a hammer and start to work.  

 

I made a soup can ladle myself when I first got my coal forge a couple years ago (I worked only with propane before that).  It was fine until I started using it to scoop coal up for the forge.  The can finally fatigued and the handle pulled off.  When I replaced it I used one of those stubby propane tanks for the ladle.  It is much stronger and I doubt it is going to ever break.  If I remember correctly I did the riveting over the anvil bick.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As I assume you are using two rivits, migh i sugjest an alluminum poprivit in one hole, rivit the other , kniick out the pop and rivit the other.
Some times on thin stock you can go down a letter size on the drill and bevel the tip of the rivit, driving it true with your monky tool, not unlike a copper rivit asn washer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Vise grips.

You can do small rivets cold if they are annealed. For AK47 home builds many guys use modified bolt cutters to just squeeze the rivets down in the receiver.

If you do these with just a hammer use the round peen end and work around the outer edges spreading them out, then progress towards the center in a circular route. When you get it pretty well spread out place the rivet set over the top,and belt it a few times. Just be sure to keep the pieces tight together so they stay that way. Check often to make sure they have not seperated while you are getting the initial upsetting done. Another route is an air chisel with the riveting bit installed.

Got pictures of your setup?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cold riveting is much easier!  As said before, light fast raps work better in most cases.  I have come to like Jake's method... just slip a piece of rod in the rivet hole and form both heads at the same time!  You have to flip it a few times, hammering on both heads in turn, to get evenly formed heads... REAL MEN do it this way!!! :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jukejoint-

Definitely spend the time to make a cup tool for the factory rivet head. It helps so much. The way I make some of mine is use old cold punches. I cut them flat across one end, drill out the center with a drill close to the same size as the rivet and then heat the punch end with a torch and set a sacrificial rivet head into the drilled hole. This will give you a perfect fit. I also grind away most of the surrounding material at about 45 degrees, forming a slope away from the rivet depression. I do this so the post will fit in tight places and not mar the work piece. I make the rivet set so it will fit in my vice and land on the cross piece (were the screw is) to add to the stability. I set mine cold up to about 5/16" factory made steel. They are soft. I used to use a ball pean until recently I started useing a farriers rounding hammer. It doesn't slide off the rivet when pounding as easily as a ball pean. So I would suggest using the biggest rounding hammer that will easily fit in the space to initially set the rivet. Then use a ball pean to work the edges down.

 

I use this method to rivet my pans together by myself and I only have 2 hands....

 

Good luck and show pictures!

post-6253-0-15133300-1418579897_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Na, your just to lazy to do the job a second time

 

My Mother and Father worked hard to instill exactly that in us kids. Seems too many folk don't have time to do it right the first time but have unlimited time to fix it.

 

An old saying I sort of came up with goes like this, "Necessity is the mother of invention but lazy is the father of improvement/efficiency." Or some version but that's the gist of it. Long family tradition of ours.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For a rivet base I started with a large bolt that I had picked up along the railroad which fits through my hardie hole.  I then took a rivet and heated it and then quenched it in super quench to get it as hard as possible.  I then heated the bolt head to yellow heat and pounded the head of the rivet into it while holding it with needle nosed vice grips.  Works a treat. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...