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Peddinghaus, the drop forged steel anvil


TechnicusJoe

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Since no one has made a review about these anvils yet, I will take this job.

I think that Peddinghaus creates the Rolce Royce of the anvils. You may differ in opinion, but if you look at how much effort and quality is

put in the production of these anvils, it puts the other producers below it.

I will name facts about this anvil and dispute false information that was spread by some people, busting some false accusations.

Facts:

-they're completely forged, top and bottom. If smaller than 50kg/110lbs they are a one-piece drop forging.
If bigger, they are forged out of 2 forging, welded at the base.

 

-they used to be forge welded at the waist; done by Paul Ferdinand Peddinghaus (P.F.P.) this was later taken over.
After the 1930s they stopped fire welding them and in some year they started welding them electrically.

 

-The faces (today) are hardened to 58HRc, not 52-54HRc. This is a mix up with the vises Peddinghaus produces.

The vise jaws are hardened to 52-54HRc to make sure they will rather dent than break. The anvil faces are hardened to 58HRc to provide

a lively work surface.

-The welding at the waist is done individually by a skilled welder, no automized machines at this stage.

 

 

 

False spread info.

-Peddinghaus are cast steel anvils. No, this is wrong. All Peddinghaus anvils have always been forged. There are FAKE cast Peddinghaus anvils that were exactly copied.

-The bottom is cast and the top forged. No, this is wrong too. It's completely forged.

-Peddinghaus anvils are no longer made. These isn't true either. They are still produced today and the owners love them (including me)


Now I will give pictorial references so you know what to look for!

 

Here is a picture of a real new Peddinghaus anvil. Stamped: Ridgid Peddinghaus with the weight in kgs stamped on it.
Notice the hardy hole has been chamfered round, this is something Ridgid Peddinghaus does these days.
Notice the weld line in the center of the waist.

Older real Peddinghaus anvils have a weld line at the waist, square chamfered hardy hole, some don't have a Peddinghaus stamp.
But will have 25, 35, 50, 75, 100, 125 stamped with a punch. If it doesn't have this, it's most likely a fake and you got ripped off.
14190peddinghaus275doublehornanvil75e_zp

Here is a picture of my Orginial P.F.P. Peddinghaus anvil, forge welded at the waist, next to my 330lbs/150kg Refflinghaus.
Notice the square chamfering on the hardy hole. And if watched from the waist you could see the fire weld.
IMG_2519_zps7a4eea7f.jpg


Here's a picture of FAKE Peddinghaus anvil. It's the same shape. But nowhere near the same quality. The faces are soft, the bottom is usually filled with air bubbles from casting.
Note the "110" and no other markings. There are other ones marked 75 and 50 like that, no other stamps. These are FAKE too.

Notice the sharp hardy hole - no chamfering, absence of a weld line at the waiste, the course surface of the body of the anvil from casting, the raised 110 and no other stamps.
This one has a totally different ring than the real Peddinghaus anvil.
two_horn_classic_zpsb50fe610.jpg

 

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I'm not sure I would call that one a fake. It is the picture from Old World Anvils web site. I don't see anywhere that they say it is an actual Peddinghaus anvil, it is just their version of a North German style anvil. I have not used any of their anvils but most all high quality anvils in current production are cast.

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I'm not sure I would call that one a fake. It is the picture from Old World Anvils web site. I don't see anywhere that they say it is an actual Peddinghaus anvil, it is just their version of a North German style anvil. I have not used any of their anvils but most all high quality anvils in current production are cast.

 

It is a fake. They don't mention it is one. But this is a Peddinghaus pattern, not a North German pattern. Peddinghaus has never given out permission for others to produce their patterns.
And the quality is nowhere near the same as a Peddinghaus anvil.

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I have a Peddinghaus anvil I bought new a few years ago which has the round hold around the hardy hole. It is an excellent anvil and I have been very pleased with it, I would recommend one to anyone looking for a new anvil. However there are two things I don't like about it.

 

The first is that they ground a chamfer around the entire edge of the face, there are no sharp corners. I have ground a radius on most of the face but could not get as small of a radius as I would have like because of the chamfer. I would also like to have a section of the face with a sharp corner for some operations but have to use a hardy block instead. I'm sure the chamfer was to keep for having chips and dings in new edges but this is a professional grade tool so let the end user dress it as they please.

 

The second thing does not change the functionality of the anvil but is annoying if you have a detail oriented personality. The hard hole was punched or broached a few degrees from square. It's not really noticeable with the round chamfer around the hole but when you put in a square hard you can see that it's not parallel with the sides.

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Unless their is some international patten of that particular shape that Peddinghaus holds than anyone is free to make their own mold and copy it. If that is the case Peddinghaus should be enforcing the patent and not allowing OWA to make that one. Unless it is being sold as a Peddinghaus anvil I would still not call it a fake. I'm not saying is is a high quality anvil or in any way compares to a Peddinghaus I just don't think they are selling it and telling people the are buying a genuine Peddinghaus anvil.

 

What is the difference in the Peddinghaus shape and the North German patter?

 

I really like that South German pattern Refflinghaus anvil you have and almost bought one instead of the Peddinghaus. I have not worked on a South German pattern so If you would humor me, which do you like better and why? What are some uses where one pattern is better than the other?

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That's great.

They indeed chamfer their edges to prevent chipping, 90 dergees is too sharp. A small chamfer wouldn't make a difference, so they do it in the extend so the edge will remain strong.
If that isn't too your liking, I'm sure they're sorry. But that's the way they make them.
I can't imagine they "just do it" like that because they think it's right. They must have had feed back that demanded a chamfered edge. I don't see why you'd need such a sharp edge.
And if I do need it, I will make a hardy tool, I am a blacksmith after all.

The hardy hole is broached square so it is more than likely they will be slightly conical. Which in my rergards is preferable as it will help aid the hardy tool.
Take a look at a Refflinghaus, Kohlswa, KL, Brooks anvil (cast) none of them are perfectly square or parallel either. 

For a bit of research I'd suggest drifting the hole square of bar with the same thickness as the length of the hardy hole on your Peddinghaus anvil. Have a look of you can get get perfectly parallel.
If you can do that; how cost effective is it? And how much would it really make difference in performance.

The faces are slightly crowned, not perfectly flat. The horns aren't prefectly stright and in line with the face (hold a long ruler over it). But that's a bit unrealistic to demand for the price they are made.
Don't forget, they are forged in dies. And by all means, if you can produce a better forged anvil than they do, for the same price or cheaper, please do so.
 

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Unless their is some international patten of that particular shape that Peddinghaus holds than anyone is free to make their own mold and copy it. If that is the case Peddinghaus should be enforcing the patent and not allowing OWA to make that one. Unless it is being sold as a Peddinghaus anvil I would still not call it a fake. I'm not saying is is a high quality anvil or in any way compares to a Peddinghaus I just don't think they are selling it and telling people the are buying a genuine Peddinghaus anvil.

 

What is the difference in the Peddinghaus shape and the North German patter?

 

I really like that South German pattern Refflinghaus anvil you have and almost bought one instead of the Peddinghaus. I have not worked on a South German pattern so If you would humor me, which do you like better and why? What are some uses where one pattern is better than the other?

 

I don't know exactly how they have it registered. But it's a pattern that has been produced by Peddinghaus, under P.F.P between 1903 and the 1930s.Branco is decades after that.

Why wouldn't you call it a fake? If another company produces sells a "Rolex" (Bolex) other than Rolex, which sort of looks the same, but cleary isn't the real deal made by Rolex, you wouldn't call that fake?
If another company roughly copied a Rolce Royce, clearly less quality, thus not Rolce Royce themselves, you wouldn't call that fake either?

It's always a fake if it's not produced by or under the name of the company who genuinely makes it. They're not checked by the real company, thus it's not their work.

The same is for these anvils, not produced by Peddinghaus, thus it's a fake. If another company would copy Refflinghaus, it would be a fake Refflinghaus anvil.


Here's an example of a North German pattern, produced by many different companies in Germany (of which many have stopped around 1900 or earlier).
221_top_plate_zpsa3d6e54c.jpg


Here's a Peddinghaus anvil, produced and designed by Peddinghaus.
14190peddinghaus275doublehornanvil75e_zp


I have both patterns, because the Southern German pattern anvil blends the face in with the round horn. This is very handy for drawing out because of all the different radii you get.

I have the Peddinghaus, because of the quality it's made in and the nice conical horn with a transition at the face, which allows me to forge different shape and curves than with the Southern German Pattern.

 

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I think you are misinterpreting what I was trying to say or perhaps I was not clear. I do love my Peddinghaus anvil and use it regularly. I think it is one of the best anvils you can buy and that they are an excellent value for what they cost. I was not intending to make a complaint against the anvil however this the spot for a review and so I thought I would post what I have scene with mine so other would not be surprised when their new anvil arrives at the shipping depot.

 

I understand the reason for having the chamfer and I was able make almost all of the radius to my liking. However occasional I would like a tighter radius than what is allowed by the chamfer or a sharp edge when working on a decorative piece and this would keep from having to use a hardy or a chisel. Not a major issue but I would rather have been able to dress it to my liking. The reason I mention it is a lot of threads posted on this site by people looking for an anvil mention the condition of the edges and wanting to find a good anvil with good edges. Either that or they want build up the edges with weld. If someone ordered an new anvil and it showed up with a chamfer instead of sharp edges they might be disappointed.

 

I have had Fisher, Trenton, Acme, Columbian, Peter Wright, and Peddinghaus anvils and the hardy hole on the Peddinghaus is out of square noticeably more than he others. This was the only anvil I have bought new and cost more than the rest of them combined so I was a bit disappointed in how far off it was. Like I said it does not affect the use but if you have the right type of personality it will bother you every time you pit in a hardy tool.

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I would not call it a fake because I don't think they are taking business for anyone who want's an actual Peddinghaus. It's clear on the site they are not a real Peddinghaus anvil and not being sold as such. I think anyone wanting the genuine article and is willing to shell out for one either new or used won't really see the other as a viable alternative.

 

All of the fake Rolex's I have scene actually said Rolex on them and were trying to be passed of as a real Rolexs, the sellers were being dishonest about it. However if you are knowingly buying a fake Rolex for cheap you were never going to spend what the real one cost anyway.

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Ok, I'm sorry I took it a bit towards the negative. Any how,

 

 

Eermm, I think it's the responsibility of the buyer to thoroughly check what their anvil or anything they buy, is like. No one just randomly buys a car, or anything else that cost a fair bit of money.
You should check it, buyer's responsibility.

I do wonder.. All those other anvils you mention. All of them are London patterns, I assume. Thus all of them have the hardy hole in the heel.
That is A LOT shorter than the depth length of the Peddinghaus anvil. Those can be more easily made square because of the short length, relative to the Peddinghaus anvil.
If you're off 1/10 of a degree, at a length of 1 inch you won't notice that much.
Take it to a mile, and you'll be off long ways.

Why don't you adjust your shanks? You're a blacksmith, aren't you? Just adjust your hardy tools till they fit right.

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TechnicusJoe

 

First off, I think I've seen some Youtube videos you've done.  I appreciate your efforts to teach others (myself included).

 

If I understand you correctly, the "Peddinghaus difference" is that the horn cone is not blended to the face.

 

Interestingly, it would appear that Peddinghaus / Rigid /  Emmerson Tool simply call this a "two horn anvil"

 

From what I can tell the only "Fake" Peddinghaus are those which are marked with the brand, not mimicing the pattern.

 

I'm certainly no historian of Anvils but it surely seems as though it would be very, very, hard to prove that a design as old as this is really "owned" by anyone.

 

Even if the pattern is similar, there's plenty of room for something to be similar without comitting fraud.

 

Leo Fender created the Stratocaster guitar in 1954.  Walk into any contemporary electric guitar store and you can expect to see anywhere from half a dozen to twenty different makers following the same pattern.  In fact it could be argued that Fender  "copied themselves" in that they offer several iterations of the same patterns made to less stringent standards, with less precious materials.

 

More than one firm "sold the molds" at one point or another in their history.  Fake, implies fraud which you can't prove.  "Poorly made copy" would be more accurate.  Super- terrible pig-metal anvils might technically be "London patterned" but that doesn't make them "fake".

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TechnicusJoe

 

First off, I think I've seen some Youtube videos you've done.  I appreciate your efforts to teach others (myself included).

 

If I understand you correctly, the "Peddinghaus difference" is that the horn cone is not blended to the face.

 

Interestingly, it would appear that Peddinghaus / Rigid /  Emmerson Tool simply call this a "two horn anvil"

 

From what I can tell the only "Fake" Peddinghaus are those which are marked with the brand, not mimicing the pattern.

 

I'm certainly no historian of Anvils but it surely seems as though it would be very, very, hard to prove that a design as old as this is really "owned" by anyone.

 

Even if the pattern is similar, there's plenty of room for something to be similar without comitting fraud.

 

Leo Fender created the Stratocaster guitar in 1954.  Walk into any contemporary electric guitar store and you can expect to see anywhere from half a dozen to twenty different makers following the same pattern.  In fact it could be argued that Fender  "copied themselves" in that they offer several iterations of the same patterns made to less stringent standards, with less precious materials.

 

More than one firm "sold the molds" at one point or another in their history.  Fake, implies fraud which you can't prove.  "Poorly made copy" would be more accurate.  Super- terrible pig-metal anvils might technically be "London patterned" but that doesn't make them "fake".

Cheers, for the compliment.

And sadly, you didn't get me right. Please read again, because otherwise I am just writing the same things again.


The fakes are WITHOUT a stamp, not the other way around. Peddinghaus has produced more patterns than just this one.

Ok, fair enough let's go with poorly made copy, but it certainly isn't the real thing.

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It's to bad I got a "fake" but my Czech anvil(same as the above picture Joe posted the 110 version of the double horn)has served me very well and has done everything I have needed this anvil to do. Kinda glad I didn't have to pay the price of the Peddinghaus's. Was my first anvil I bought, and that was at the Lacrosse, Wisconsin USA - ABANA conference (1992 I think)sellers were from Canada and after that they were sold by Bob Bergman in Wisconsin USA I really don't think I will be able to break this anvil during the rest of my lifetime - I would buy another if I needed one.

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Sure buyer be ware but it not the same as buying a car. There are probably 15 car dealerships in my town each with a few hundred cars. I can go test drive and kick the tires on any new car I want. There is not a single retailer within 300 miles that stocks new anvils. There are only a few in the country who have Peddinghaus and one that has Refflinghaus. If I want to see one in person I would more than likely have to take a plane ride. I don't know of any other manufacures who chamfers the edges in the same manner that Peddinghaus does. I think it is relevant since this is the review thread for Peddinghaus anvils.

 

As far as my hardies are concered I have several anvils with 1" hardy holes and share my hardies among them. If I fix them for the Ped they will be crooked in the others.

 

TechnicusJoe, Thanks for getting the ball rolling on this thread. I also have watched your videos and really appreciate the time you have put into them for the rest of us to  enjoy.

 

Jeremy, I'm glad to hear such a good report on the Chech anvil and that you are happy with yours. I have also watch some of your build threads and appreciate them.

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Sure buyer be ware but it not the same as buying a car. There are probably 15 car dealerships in my town each with a few hundred cars. I can go test drive and kick the tires on any new car I want. There is not a single retailer within 300 miles that stocks new anvils. There are only a few in the country who have Peddinghaus and one that has Refflinghaus. If I want to see one in person I would more than likely have to take a plane ride. I don't know of any other manufacures who chamfers the edges in the same manner that Peddinghaus does. I think it is relevant since this is the review thread for Peddinghaus anvils.

 

As far as my hardies are concered I have several anvils with 1" hardy holes and share my hardies among them. If I fix them for the Ped they will be crooked in the others.

 

TechnicusJoe, Thanks for getting the ball rolling on this thread. I also have watched your videos and really appreciate the time you have put into them for the rest of us to  enjoy.

 

Jeremy, I'm glad to hear such a good report on the Chech anvil and that you are happy with yours. I have also watch some of your build threads and appreciate them.

It isn't hard to call the company and ask them, right? And there are loads of Peddinghaus anvil owners, including me. It's not like they are reading in the dark and can't find it.
If you read what Charles R. S. just wrote, I think you can be supplied with enough info. If not, you will keep searching right? At least, that's what I would do.

Can you list any other anvil producers of today; Kohlswa, Rathole forge, Rhino, Nimba, imported Czech anvil who do have a shop and let you use them in their showroom, if showing live at all?

Peddinghaus, Refflinghaus, Kohlswa (older models did, haven't seen the new ones yet). You can see in the video of my Refflinghaus being newly delivered to my shop.
It has the same chamfering.
The same chamfering can be found on some wrought iron with steel face German anvils.

For the hardies, if it really bothers you so much, make the hardies you want for that anvil specifically. Get it done, you're a smith.

 

Cheers for the compliments.


Concerning the Czech cast anvils. Yea, they work like an anvil, so will a piece of railroad track, an aso from harbor freight, and even a piece of granite, even concrete.
Though, if you forge daily like me, and you get a chance to try brands, their performance becomes obivous.
In my videos you can find a 50kg/110lbs version of the Czech anvil. I have had one and I sold it after having a thorough amount of play with it.
This will only be noticable for smiths who do use their anvils a lot.
If you just go tippy-tappy 5 times a day, you might as well use a block of cast iron or mild steel, because there is then no way you'd notice the difference.

They're not on the cheap side of pricing, but they still are considering how efficient they are produced.
There wouldn't be any forged anvils, probably, left if they didn't make the dies to forge these anvils.
Sadly a lot of dies for different models wore out and are no longer produced. But their signature design certainly survived.

If no one recognized the quality in the anvils Peddinghaus produces and created a demand, they would have stopped that production completely.
But they're still around, (drop) forging steel anvils, since 1903.
 

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Though if you take a dictonary, fake an is appropriate thing to call the "fake" anvils.

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/fake

 

Joe,

 

I speak English, thank you.  Every definition listed in your link indicates deceit, sham, or fraud.   "Fake" means you're intentionally misleading or misrepresenting something to someone else.

 

I can say that  your guide to identifying a Peddinghaus could be shortened to "Does it say Peddinghaus on it?  If not, you can assume it's something else." Not too useful if you think about it. 

 

I'm glad you like your anvil, but I'm especially glad that Kubiak chimed in.  There's no reason that a thousand dollar anvil should have a crooked hardie hole or overly chamfered edges.  "Work arounds" are reasonable answers when people aren't "paying for the best".  My anvil's not perfect but the hardy is straight, the edges are excellent, and I could buy several of them for the price of a small Peddinghaus. There are a lot of options when you've got that much money to spend.  

 

Again, I'm glad you're happy with your anvil. Thank you for the review.

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Guys, who cares if Joe thinks that its a fake? If "cheap knock off", "low quality imitation" or "copy" makes his statement more palatable go with it.
If we argue over the semantics Glenn or one of the other moderators will haft to step in and put a lid on it.
Better to state why you like or dislike your anvil, its simularitys and differences than argue over Joe's choice of descriptive pronouns.

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Joe,

 

I speak English, thank you.  Every definition listed in your link indicates deceit, sham, or fraud.   "Fake" means you're intentionally misleading or misrepresenting something to someone else.

 

I can say that  your guide to identifying a Peddinghaus could be shortened to "Does it say Peddinghaus on it?  If not, you can assume it's something else." Not too useful if you think about it. 

 

I'm glad you like your anvil, but I'm especially glad that Kubiak chimed in.  There's no reason that a thousand dollar anvil should have a crooked hardie hole or overly chamfered edges.  "Work arounds" are reasonable answers when people aren't "paying for the best".  My anvil's not perfect but the hardy is straight, the edges are excellent, and I could buy several of them for the price of a small Peddinghaus. There are a lot of options when you've got that much money to spend.  

 

Again, I'm glad you're happy with your anvil. Thank you for the review.

 

It is a fake. You see an anvil that repesentates a Peddinghaus anvil patthern. Peddinghaus has been around for a long time before the cast fakes.

Whether you think they can/should/ get away with not saying it is one doesn't change that. I don't see any mentioning of claims it is a not-Peddinghaus anvil, Even though they clearly are the same shape.
You don't see any clearifying information for the people who might take it for a real Peddinghaus anvil.
What you see is an anvil in the shape of a pattern designed by Peddinghaus, but not produced by Peddinghaus, neither checked, nor sold. You don't see them calling it a Peddinghaus anvil.
But the effort to clearly say it certainly is not Peddinghaus anvil lacks big time.

 

How is my "guide" not useful (I wouldn't even call it a guide because it's so simple)? Peddinghaus has always marked their anvils with their stamps. With the exeption of a few I have seen without.
But they are still day and night easy to recognize. You have to be visually impaired to be able not to see it.
The ones without a stamp are a rare exception I doubt many would ever encounter.

 

There is indeed no reason for a well made anvil to have a crooked hardy hole. Don't lose sight of the fact it is (drop) forged and not cast,

which seriously changes costs, but improves performance certainly. Though the way you write it implies all of them have a crooked hardy hole.
But that's complete nonesense. By your words I doubt you have a Peddinghaus anvil.
Though, say you do have one. Why don't you take pictures of how "crooked" the hole is. Show us by how many miles it is off.
I doubt though you have one. And I'd like you to then show your anvil with its straight (you imply parallel) hardy hole. Show us it's perfectly square and not off by a few (10ths of) degeree(s).

 

Overly chamfered edges? Do you represent all Peddinghaus anvil owners? Kubiuk chimes in and gives a few pointers he isn't completely satisfied with. But he does say this and I quote:
"I do love my Peddinghaus anvil and use it regularly. I think it is one of the best anvils you can buy and that they are an excellent value for what they cost. I was not intending to make a complaint against the anvil however this the spot for a review and so I thought I would post what I have scene with mine so other would not be surprised when their new anvil arrives at the shipping depot."


I can't see whether you own a genuine Peddinghaus anvil, let alone have ever even used one. Clearly though, you seem unimpressed by the German tool maker.
Which is completely fine. But it's sad if you say all that, without owning or having used one (for a longer period time)(because of whatever excuse/argument you have)

 

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Guys, who cares if Joe thinks that its a fake? If "cheap knock off", "low quality imitation" or "copy" makes his statement more palatable go with it.
If we argue over the semantics Glenn or one of the other moderators will haft to step in and put a lid on it.
Better to state why you like or dislike your anvil, its simularitys and differences than argue over Joe's choice of descriptive pronouns.

Charles, you're right. This should be about people owning and using a Peddinghaus anvil and giving a review about them. (And preferably not by people who don't own, nor use one.)


My excuses to everyone.

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I read back through this thread and realized I mostly spoke about what I did not like about my anvil. TechnicusJoe took the time to post about his anvil including pictures and then I start in straight away with what I did not like about mine. I though TechnicusJoe did an excellent job covering all of the good things about the these anvils and their construction there was not much more for me to add that he had not already covered. My intention was not degrade these anvils I merely wanted to point out somethings about them that are not apparent if you have not scene a brand spanking new one in person. If I had know this about mine I still would have ordered it as I think it is one of the best values in a new anvil. For me the features, construction, price, and freight all fell into a sweet spot. I don't know if other anvils are any better or worse but I think you get a lot of value for your dollar with these.

I do want to say that I have a full time job that is not blacksmithing and only use my anvil a few nights a week and most every weekend. So with that being said what do I like about the anvil, a lot. My anvil is the 275 lb #12 with the upsetting block. Probably my favorite thing about this anvil is how much mass they put in the center of the anvil. There is much more that in a London pattern anvil which makes the sweet spot larger. It is pretty much a sawyers anvil with horns stuck on the sides. The rebound on this anvil is excellent the best I have personally worked on. I also like having the two horn shapes. It can be really handy to have the one inch end of the flat horn attached to 275 lbs of steel. I also like the conical horn as it gives me a different shape than the horn on my London pattern. I think they nailed it on the placement of the hardy hole. It is supported by about 5 inches of steel, you are not going to break it off forging hardies with a heavy sledge. I still don't like to leave a cutoff hardy in while forging but if it gets forgotten I think it is much safer on my tong hand side than on my hammer side. I think the upsetting block is a feature worth seeking out in an anvil. I'm glad this one has one and I have come to use it quite a bit. I also like the weight and size. I have the 275 lb anvil and it is about all I can safely move around without getting out the engine hoist. I also like the fact that it is drop forged. I'm not going to argue with anyone over the merits of cast vs forged but I like knowing how well this anvil was built. It was expensive and a life long purchase and I like the extra peace of mind it gives me knowing it will last that long.

TechnicusJoe, I think the use of the term fake may just be a cultural difference. You are calling it a fake and I call it a copy. What I see is a company who makes anvils and found a very popular anvil with a proven history and copied its shape, is making it using less expensive methods, and selling it for a lower price. I do think they are trying to make money selling the same shape. To call it a fake in the US would imply that they are selling it and telling people it is a genuine Peddinghaus and that something fraudulent is taking place. The anvil would have to look the same and be marked Ridged/Peddinghaus. I'm not going to comment further on this as I have clearly stated why I would not call it a fake.

As far as the chamfer, I gave this some more though as to why this bothers me. If I'm making a scarf to do a lap weld I start by setting a shoulder over the edge of the anvil. When working in smaller stock I can not get as small of a radius as I would like and have to get out a block shaped hardy with a tighter shoulder. This is a minor issue but I would prefer if they left it some room on the anvil to do this. I'm not going to say more on this either other than I would have like the anvil to be left buyer to dress.

Since you asked I have included a few pictures of my anvil and also my forge. These pictures where several years ago was when the anvil was brand new and I had just finished building the stand for it but had not yet bolted it down. The makers mark is hard to see because of the black paint but it says Ridged/Peddinghaus. I can take a close up of it if you like. I also built the forge and leg vise stand. My current project is rebuilding the 50# trip hammer. I'm about half way done working on it and hope to be done soon after the first of the year. I just got in all of the babbiting supplies and am working on pouring new bearings.

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Here are a few pics of some of the other shop items I have built and some other the other anvils I have had. The picture are the forge in operation, my 6" Columbian leg vise, a welding/layout table, 250lb Fisher, and a 175lb Columbian. I build the forge, leg vise stand, and welding table. I sold all of my anvils besides the Trenton to buy the buy the Peddinghaus. The Trenton was my first anvil and belonged to my father in law, when he retired from farming he made a gift of it to me. A very good friend of mine bought the Fisher and a Peter Wright from me so I still get to use them on a regular basis. I also have first right of refusal if he ever wants to sell the Fisher.

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