Benton Frisse Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 I'm doing a commission for someone. They want an ax they can use around the camp and out in the field hunting. I decided on a similar design to some of the "Trail Hawks" that folks are putting out there. A nice sized bit that can shave kindling, split small wood, and split some pelvic bones for game yet a hammer poll for stakes and such. I started on the beast from 7/8in square stock of hot rolled mild steel, with intentions of forge welding in a 5160 bit. After slitting and drifting the eye I realized... the hammer poll will from mild. For hammering stakes and such, what kind of longevity will mild have in that kind of use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dabbsterinn Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 why not butt-weld some of that 5160 on the poll?, or cover it with hard-facing rod if you have the means to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Benton, for light hammering, a mild-steel poll will be fine. Even if they hammer on the occasional bit of metal, like a wedge, it will be a long time before mushrooming is a factor. Most all hammering I've ever done with a hatchet poll has been on wood, and even mild steel is lots and lots harder than seasoned oak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 I agree with VaughnT, mild steel's much tougher than most camp hammering chores. That being said, I've got a book that mentions welding steel bits and polls to iron bodied axes. In fairness, they might have figured it would be used as a roofing hatchet. Pounding nails all day long would make a steel poll face worthwhile. I think it's really about what your customer wants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAD MAX Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Put some case hardening compound on the poll whn hot and tap it with a light hammer. do this about 3 times and wire brush in between, it shoul give about 1/16 of Hard material that should work pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benton Frisse Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 I realized in my absence that I never responded to this. Thanks for all of your input, folks! I think I've decided to leave it as mild steel. Here's a few photos of the axe in its current condition. I did a drifted eye in 7/8in square stock, then folded and welded an overlay of 5160 over the bit. Came out kinda viking-ish looking with the beard. Still need to finish clean up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch4ging Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 looks good, Benton. Look forward to the finished product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohio Rusty Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) I was just reading about a historical way to make an polled axehead yesterday. They first forge welded on the steel facing material on the softer iron right in the middle where the back of the axe head/poll would be. Then they formed the axe around a mandrel, spread the end open for the steel edge bit. Forge welded in a steel bit for the blade and hammered out the blade to shape. The poll was then formed from the earlier forge weld of the steel on the back, and lastly the eye was dressed again on the mandrel if it was out of shape.Since you have already have formed the poll, Maybe cut a piece of farriers rasp the about size of the poll or a tad bigger. Grind the top side smooth and leave the teeth on the rasp underside and forge weld it onto the poll. The teeth will bury into the poll helping to hold it in place. Then it's just a matter or tweaking, finishing, etc. Ohio Rusty ><>The Ohio Frontier Forge Edited March 18, 2015 by Ohio Rusty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benton Frisse Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 Thank you so much for the advice! I have some small chunks of farriers rasps laying around that would fit perfectly! But then that raises the next question... what about tempering and hardening? Since I'll have two different steels that need two different hardness on each end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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