Stock removal on 0-1

[Iceforge.]

I plan on buying a piece of 0-1 from the new jersey steel baron, would it be fine to anneal, cut out my shape, grind, and then harden and temper? Also bought the complete modern blacksmith but wanted to start with stock removal

[windancer]

You left out a step most knifemakers use: Rough Grind and Finish grind. The rough grind usualy takes the blade edge down to the thickness of a nickel or so. Then heat treat and temper, then the final edge is ground. The rough grind leaves you enough meat to avoid [usualy] warping during heat treat. The stock should be removed in eaqual parts to each side: two passes on the front, twopasses on the back. Being careful to get the grind centered also helps prevent warping/twisting.
Get after it- this is not a spectator sport :)
Dave

[Iceforge.]

Thanks alot ! Now the hard decision becomes 1084 or 0-1 which is more accepting of mistakes and more user friendly ?

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

When you get it, it should be fully annealed unless you order it pre hardened. I use a lot of O1 at work. McMaster Carr, as well as MSC, and other industrial/machine shop suppliers like Enco, J and L, and others sell O1 stock in various shapes, sizes, and at very reasonable costs. Buy a flat, cut it out, grind to shape, heat treat, then finish. The heat treating will be the most technical part of the project.

[Chinobi]

It has been recommended to me that 1084 is the best steel for entry level work.  YMMV :)

[Iceforge.]

Thanks alot everyone for the useful info, will look into 1084

[homeshow]

10XX series is easy to work.