Heat treating 5160 Falchon?

[will52100]

Wasn't sure whether to ask this here or in the heat treating section.

 

I forged out a single edged sword shaped object about a year ago and haven't found the time or courage to heat treat yet.  Blade is forged from virgin 5160 John Deere load shaft, single edged with a slight curve like a cutless.  A steel I've played with and has shown me good edge holding with outstanding toughness through knives with blades up to 12".

 

I've been going back and forth over how to heat treat, I'm leaning towards a full quench with a soft back draw to the tang and ricasso area.  The other option is an edge quench, which is what I do with most of my knives, or possibly a clay coating.  Since I'm not shooting for a hammon, the full quench with soft draw I'm thinking would be the easier to not screw up.

 

Next question would be what would be the desired hardness?  I'm thinking of tempering to 55 should give sufficient edge holding while remaining functionally unbreakable.

 

Blade is approximately 24", not counting the tang.  I say approximately as I'm not near my home and can't measure it rite now.

I've made a lot of knives, and some pretty big ones,  even a few Zombi Apocalypse type machetes out of leaf springs, but a sword is not a knife.

 

Thanks

[jmccustomknives]

Sounds like you've got it figured out.  The soft back draw method will give the most control. 

[will52100]

Thanks, what do you recommend for hardness?  I don't plan on getting fancy with the quench or anything, just point down after hitting critical.  With large blades I've had great success with a triple quench and draw at 350 degF.  But that's with an edge quenched blade, about half of the lower blade hardened, and blade will pass the brass rod test and is capable of being bent 90 deg at least once.  For the sword I don't want to chance a triple quench.  I've found with 5160 and 52100 that if I single quench I have to raise the tempering temp.