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I Forge Iron

New fly press


D Ravizza

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Hi,

 

I wanted to share a few photos of the fly press that followed me home in the early summer.

Not a machine I have often seen in my travels. I have wanted one for a while as they seem most convenient for certain forging operations. I also wanted a solid press that I could do simple punching/blanking operations in. I have a few ideas for dies I would like to build.

 

With all due respect to power hammers, I like the idea of a quiet, hand controlled machine. Plus the garage floor won’t withstand a power hammer.

 

I have seen some neat work smiths have done with fly presses and I hope to learn to do the same.

I would love to see ideas about tooling people have made for their presses, as well as what they are capable of.

 

This press, in my opinion is rather nice. It’s in almost immaculate condition. Only the paint needs to be touched up where it chipped when I moved the machine. I had to separate the press from its base.

 

It’s made in Switzerland and it shows as the machine work is exquisite and many surfaces are actually hand scraped! The hold-down clamps are also a convenient feature. The press even came with a wrench to remove the cross bar and as well as the spanner nuts holding on the weights.

 

The size of the machine seems to equate to roughly a number 6 press. I measured the screw diameter and over all dimensions and compared it to data on the new Indian fly presses.

 

I am curious what size presses other smiths are using.

Since this machine is an H frame, I have been wondering if other smiths find the C frame machines more convenient. For what I intend to do I think I prefer the rigidity of the H frame.

 

Due to the shape and color of the counterweights this press was known as the “M & M machine” by its former owners.  I think it’s a very fitting name!

 

Thanks

Dan

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Lovely condition. Any idea as to its history?

The fact that the pull handle is a machined taper rather than forged is intriguing, maybe indicates it as a more modern production design process than the old Norton and Sweeney and Blocksedge designs, but then the actual handle grip looks curiously old fashioned somehow. Maybe it is just "upmarket"!

How is the drive taken from the swing arms to the spindle? Is it fluted or faceted? My old English ones have a forged tapered octagon on the drive spindle and corresponding boss so that the lever can be positioned optimally for the particular job.

Is the adjustable drop arm located by any other system than the pinch bolt?

Any idea about the function of the locking ring above the clamp-stop, just belt and braces to make sure the clamp-stop didn't move?

As far as size goes my first was a no. 2 or 3 and the later one is either 5 or 8 (can't read the number clearly but it has a 1 1/2" diameter chuck so it probably is 8)

Mine both are C frame neither is deep throat. I think for the use I have put mine to the extra rigidity and precision afforded by the double post one is not necessary. Being able to get at the middle of long bar instantly or working into the edge of a plate has been more useful so far. Possibly 10% of the things I do on mine would be less easy on a double post but that is all.

Enjoy it! I am sure you will.

Alan

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Thanks for the kind words everyone.

 

Alan,

 

The drive from the swing arms to the main screw is a tapered hexagon. It is nicely machined. You can remove the nut with the large wrench pictured then move the arms to a more convenient position.  No sign that anything was forged on this machine.

 

Good question about how the vertical arm is attached. I got curious and went out and loosened it. You can see how it’s constructed in the photo. There is a pin in the face of the shoulder that corresponds to a hole in the horizontal arm. There is only one hole, so only one position for the handle.

 

The stop nut is basically two pieces. The inner part is threaded with a male buttress thread. You can wind it up and down to set the stop position of the press. The holes are to insert a bar to ease in turning it. You can lock and unlock the nut by loosening the lever on the side of it.  The flange on top of the main screw bottoms out on this stop nut. The nut is not threaded onto the main screw of the press as I have seen on others. I hope the explanation along with the photo helps explain things.

 

I suspect the machine was built in the 1950's or early 1960's. I really don't know.

 

The neat thing is I do know a good bit about its history. I purchased it from the estate of a watchmaker/horologist from Connecticut. Sometime in the late 1970's early 1980's he purchased this machine as well as a huge amount of other tools and machines from various Bulova watch factories around the country.  I was told that this particular press came from Bulova’s Woodside, NY plant in Queens, NY. I am sure Bulova purchased it new straight from Switzerland.  

 

I suspect the press was in a toolroom or model shop environment, I don't think it was used for high production.

 

That makes sense that my machine is likely a number six as your number eight press takes 1.5” tooling. Mine takes 1 3/8” tooling.

 

I would love to see some tooling you use on your machine.

 

I have not done much forging with it yet. It is handy for doing chasing on flat work. The chasing tool is pressed cleanly into the work. No bouncing at all like doing it on an anvil. With the stop set, no worries about squishing my hand.

 

Thanks

Dan

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Greetings Dan,

 

That is a sweet little fly press...  I have been using a P-6 for many years and have developed many many tools some of which I have posted on earlier threads..   I like the C frame style because it allows for more surface area for larger flat work...  I have had many students this year at my studio for lessons and lots of pictures were taken of my tooling.. Enclosed is a photo of my designed handle for easer tooling and position changes..  Have fun with you new press and if I can help with any questions let me know...

 

Press on and make beautiful things

Jim

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