Clint B Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I really like the way this turned out. 3 ft of RR track and some oak boards from a salvaged pallet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 What is the intended purpose of it? I wound think the other side (top) of a rr track wound be work hardened, and a harder surface to forge on? Or mount it vertically for the most mass under the hammer. If you're after the flat surface of the underside of the rail, the frame seems like there would be a lot of give to it, yielding inefficient hammering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clint B Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 The goal is a flat surface, there seems to be no give in the setup. The track is new and unused so there would be no work hardening. I'm hoping that I'll be able to use it for straitening and flat surface projects. I'm still new to all of this so I may be way off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 That's cool, but as it is now your supports are not under your hammering area. Like you're hammering in the middle of a bridge with no support underneath. If all you have is the oak pallet boards I would've put the supports 8" or so from each end, rather than out on the very ends. Or add a center brace to the current setup. Trying to get the most support under the hammer blows. But for general straightening and light forging it will probably serve you well. I'm sure you'll get some unique burn marks on those oak boards over time! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clint B Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 Normal forging will be done on my anvil. I do see your point about the unsupported center, I may have to add a leg in the center on both sides if I have issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Well it's certainly a neat flat surface! I would find that very useful for ensuring wall hooks, towel rails, handles etc sit squarely on a flat plane and for making small adjustments to achieve the correct alignment.A nice piece to have handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Bill Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I have seen similar here within a few miles- quite handy for lots of things I bet. Congrats on the use of pallet wood! They can be a real stinker to get apart; I've resorted to grinding off the nail heads mostly. Some of the hardwoods used in them is extremely dense and hugely durable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakersteve Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Looks nice, but with only 6 bolts supporting structure, it won't take any hard hammering or big projects. I have a similar setup, but flipped rail. I also gave 4 a 2x4 under rail with heavier supports under rail. It is real solid, but not a replacement for my other anvils Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakersteve Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 If later you decide to try vertical perhaps this will be helpful. This was my starter anvil and useful still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clint B Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Thanks for all the replies guys! I really appreciate the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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