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I Forge Iron

A billet from the archives


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I'm sure we all throw billets in a drawer that we think we'll get back to later. This is one of them for me. Since my assistant is leaving in 2 weeks, I thought it may be a good time to get something out the door if possible. So, here it is. The handle is tulip wood and ebony. Unfortunately, the photo does not show how pretty the tulip wood is. Comments/critique welcome.

Thanks for looking.

John

 

post-677-0-04996900-1409017095_thumb.jpg

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Steve,

I used 1095 and L6 saw blade. The key is to etch,sand,etch,sand etc so the etch is deep enough that the L6 (the more noble of the two) stands slightly proud of the 1095 and is the more polished of the two. It's important to sand the L6 highlights to about 1500-2000 grit to get non muddy highlights on the L6. If you can see grind lines on the L6, it will come out muddy. I typically use a painters stirring stick with some gasket material glued to it as a backing block for the sandpaper. Unfortunately, there aren't many shortcuts for hand work.

Anyone care to chime in here?

John

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One trick I have used for extra dark is Cold blue solution between etching sessions in nickel damascus.   After I get the feric chloride to about as dark as I can get it, hand sanding between 20 minute sessions,  I use the cold blue, then hand sand again lightly,  then 10 minutes or so more back into the etch of ferric chloride and a final hand sand/polish. this way its an even very dark finish. (ever try to get a good and even finish with cold blue alone? if ya do please tell me how)

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