Benton Frisse Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Hey folks! So I've been doing some research on stag handles. I've got some hunter-style blades made but they're yearning for a beautiful stag handle. The research I've found shows that people do this about 30 different ways lol. Some people state that they drill out what they can, then heat the tang up red hot and push it into the antler and it melts away like butter. Other people say they drill the entire thing out (even with a curve?!) and fit it that way. Some pin the handle, some don't. I've also seen where some seal the stag handle, some don't. Here are my two questions: 1. What seems to be the most effective way to do so without risk of cracking the antler? 2. Do you prefer to seal the stag handle or leave it natural? If so, what is your go to sealant? I had tried one technique where put a cherry red heat on the tang and shoved it into the antler... CRACK! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobody Special Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Benton, I haven't played with antler much, but I've done burn in wood handles. I seemed to get better results and less broken or cracked handles if I drilled a pilot hole initially, then heated to black heat with a propane torch and pushed the tang in slowly and firmly. It sometimes takes more than one heat, in which case I either heated it again with a torch a little further down and continued, or pulled it off and reheated. Size of the tang relative to what it's going in makes a big difference too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benton Frisse Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 Thanks for the advice! I did this with wood once, and then I couldn't get the handle back off. What keeps the handle from getting stuck on? I think I did it with red oak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Over sizing the drilled hole and bedding in epoxy or cutler's resin can also be used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Keyes Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 I drill them, either part way or all the way through. If there is a curve to deal with, drill in from both sides and file out the corner. You can also bend the tang to make it fit around the corner. Just don't drill out through the side :( :angry:. You don't need a really tight fit. The epoxy will soak into the marrow and give you a nice tight bond. The epoxy will also seal up the interior nicely. If you've got a piece with a nice outside surface, I try not to disturb that, so a buffed wax is what I use for the outside. I don't pin most of my handles, the epoxy is stronger than the handle in almost every case. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Also covered in the knife making lessons.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benton Frisse Posted June 12, 2014 Author Share Posted June 12, 2014 I must have missed it in the lessons! Thanks for the advice, everyone! I'm going to give it a whirl this weekend. Need to go pick up some epoxy first. I'm glad I have plenty of antlers to work with ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 I also read a post where a guy soaks antler in tepid water for a month or so which will soften the Pith considerably. Pull antler from water and simply force onto tang. Apparently the soaking procedure makes the Pith soft and yielding like a sponge. So it will displace itself as it is forced over tang. He then described clamping the horn in place as per normal gluing instructions, Except he leaves the clamps on for a couple weeks. This allows the pith or marrow to dry and make a postive grip on the tang.....No glues needed. Hope this helps. He did recommend to be ready for the stink when the antler is pulled from the water.....I have sanded antler so I know that smell........Cheers, Darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 If you use epoxy, read the label closely. Some cure clear, while others cure to a light yellow or something along those lines. Try to stick with the clear for a neater appearance, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benton Frisse Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 Thanks! I've never heard of the water soaking technique. But i'd like to try that, too (as long as the smell isn't so bad I gag). I made that mistake with my first knife. We used a mix epoxy similar in color to JB weld for my first knife handle. Bad Idea... looked horrible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 There is no reason for epoxy to be seen on a handle done correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Why a butt cap or pommel and some sort of cover on the front is suggested; An old coin is often a handy starting place for a cap---one worn enough it has nothing but scrap value but is still recognizable. Queen Vicky will raise some eyebrows! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benton Frisse Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 I've got some copper that isn't quite 1/8in thick but pretty close, I may use that for a butt cap and peen over the tang. I'm sure there's a thread in here about peening over tangs for pommels and butt caps, right? I have yet to come across it, but I plan on combing through more threads tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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