littlemilligan Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 While it looks cool, those scale cold laps can/will come loose and can cut someone. A quick stroke or two with a wire brush when it comes out of the fire to knock the scale off before it goes on the anvil usually takes care of driving scale into the work piece. Leaving an as forged or hammer texture, heck any texture, should be a deliberate process rather than just what happens. Frosty The Lucky. Thanks Frosty, so it looks like scale is what I've been thinking were "cracks" . I think I've had both, but the idea that not cleaning off before drawing out has caused what I thought were delamination ( and was in fact the opposite ). It's true that I was only banging the hot metal on the floor on my way to the hammer to let any loose scale drop off and not brushing it off. Thanks for the heads-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 Hand made does not equal looking rough, just remember that Col. It can and may well come back to bite you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemilligan Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 Hand made does not equal looking rough, just remember that Col. It can and may well come back to bite you. By the time I've finished with them,( cleaning, grinding, buffing ect ) there is nothing rough about them Phil, you couldn't cut your self on these if you wanted too. The look is very deliberate, and nothing is accidental about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Oh no, I was talking about when we get to Moonies next, I'm sure I will be able to bring up something about whatever you have forged and it must have been hand made cause I can see its rough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemilligan Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 · Hidden by Steve Sells, June 18, 2014 - WOW Hidden by Steve Sells, June 18, 2014 - WOW Oh no, I was talking about when we get to Moonies next, I'm sure I will be able to bring up something about whatever you have forged and it must have been hand made cause I can see its rough. Apparently I;m forbidden from swearing on hear or otherwise Phil #$%&*@#$#^%%$&# off Link to comment
ThomasPowers Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 I always blame the Arts & Crafts movement of around 1900 for the idea that handmade should be imperfect---hammer marks should be left in; handspun yarn should be slubby, etc....to differentiate it from the soulless machine made "perfection" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 There's also a desire from folk of my generation for unique things. I remember as a kid riding in the station wagon with the folks one of our road games was to spot as many cars, houses and such that were just like ours. After WWII the enormous manufacturing powers the US had developed to fight the war had to do something so it started mass producing things folk wanted and needed. For my folks, a couple depression era kids mass production meant goods they could afford and jobs to earn them, it was the very symbol of prosperity. I grew up with that prosperity and have always had a desire for something unique, whatever I had most of the kids I knew had one just like it. Unfortunately for folk who don't have enough knowledge/experience to see details we wouldn't miss, they need something obvious so hammer marks have become a trademark for hand forged. For a huge segment of our market hand forged without hammer marks is like trying to sell Coca Cola in a green can. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemilligan Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 Oh no, I was talking about when we get to Moonies next, I'm sure I will be able to bring up something about whatever you have forged and it must have been hand made cause I can see its rough. Thanks for the vote of confidence Phil, I hope I can repay the compliment at some point :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 Col I have no doubt that you will be able to repay the compliment, I have made more ash trays, bird baths, and letter boxes than you may think, (ashtrays bird baths and letter boxes are what all the ones that went wrong become) and experience has not made me any better at not making them. My head hurts now, I think I'll have a cup of tea a bex and a good lie down. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemilligan Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 Hope your lie down has you feeling better. I had posted a more jovial response but the powers that be decided it was inappropriate and took it down. Anyway the final thing is without cold lap or any other thing that would or could hurt you as you can see ya big palooka. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 They look really good Col, its a long way from moonys and powerhammer forging 101. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemilligan Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 They look really good Col, its a long way from moonys and powerhammer forging 101. Cheers, catch up soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemilligan Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 effect on site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 They look very dramatic...but the flame licks around the wooden post? How do you get away with that? Going back to your OP problem, the splitting, cold shut and flakes, definitely working below red is a no no. You can feel the springiness and resilience under the power hammer but unfortunately by that time it is too late and it may well have sheared across the diagonal. I have had the surface lift on 316L even when I had done very little work and certainly not below red. I went back to the parent bar and discovered there were a couple of flakes running along the length from the original rolling. This was from 50mm (2") square. Though I have also had some snags on some pickled and peeled 50mm (2") round which had been rolled into rings. Have a close look at your stock and maybe grind out any flakes prior to forging...much better than afterwards. Posts above refer to using all your senses when forging stainless, but I always do that with every material and process, not sure how you turn a sense off actually.... However with all our sensory deprivatory safety gear I find it always useful if possible to cut each element double length in order to use one piece as a handle rather than accept the slightly distorted feedback you get from tongs. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george m. Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Dear LM, Is your use of bright screws to mount the torch holders an intentional decision for the contrast? Also, what are you using for fuel in the torch cups? I, too, am wondering about scorching the woodwork when it is windy. GM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron woodrow Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 welcome to the moderator queue buddy, i got on without even saying bad words! glad you sorted it out with the stainless, as usual i got to the thread long after it was answered ;) , but still want to oFfer help (or jUst have a yarn) .... stainless is for sure a CantanKerous beast> if'n YOU don't Treat her with all the reSpecT shE deserVEs we had an apprentice +under me< where i didmy apprtenticeshipwho just couldn't get it in his head NOT to burn the any stainless we forged<, or work it cold! never in the wright heat range! he also used to go around writing "hot" with chalk on things as they cooled down, i said "it is a blacksmith shop!, assume everything is hot! you are better off writing COLD ont the cold stuff!!" so when he forge stainless or high tensile cold, even the boss could hear it from the other end of the shop, while the offender was flogging on the unfortunate item, and yell "WRITE COLD ON IT!!!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemilligan Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 The customer installed the torches george, so the screws were down to him. The flames have been toned down with the use of slower burning fuel and so far no burning of timber has happened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch4ging Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 LM, like the way they came out! Nice job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemilligan Posted October 26, 2014 Author Share Posted October 26, 2014 thanks mitch4ging Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOONY Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 hi col ye u need to keep the 316 hot dont go below low yellow an if u want occasionally aneall and quench in water from 1080 about 316i a nice to forge but a but tuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemilligan Posted October 26, 2014 Author Share Posted October 26, 2014 Good on ya MOONY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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