Tacuff1414 Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Hello everyone I recently bought my first anvil and post vise. I'm now looking to build my own simple forge. This idea I got came from Youtube, and I wanted to see if there is anything easier/better I can do from this type of forge. I know it is common to use a brake drum, which is what I am wanting to do. A 2 inch flange was bolted to the bottom of the brake drum, and then metal pipe was screwed into the flange, and a "T" pipe was then screwed into the "T" for the inlet/outlet. A cheap hairdryer was used for the blower. The blower is my next question at this part of the build...I have an old champion blower that is still good... would this give off enough air to travel through the piping to be sufficient to keep the fire going? Or would I need the hairdryer? Tell me what you think of this setup. I have attached a couple of pics. Thanks for any advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Why didn't you post this yesterday? I just described exactly what you built and could've satisfied my lazy soul by referring your post instead. The only thing missing is the exhaust flap cap ash dump. <grin> Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacuff1414 Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 Why didn't you post this yesterday? I just described exactly what you built and could've satisfied my lazy soul by referring your post instead. The only thing missing is the exhaust flap cap ash dump. <grin> Frosty The Lucky. Haha my bad! This one isn't mine though...It's pictures of the exact one I'm building. Can you explain the exhaust flap cap ash dump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacuff1414 Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 I've attached a picture of the champion blower that my grandpa gave me. It looks to be all there, but it seems to be locked up. The handle will not turn either way. What is the best way to go about figuring out what is wrong with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Haha my bad! This one isn't mine though...It's pictures of the exact one I'm building. Can you explain the exhaust flap cap ash dump? Exhaust flap caps are intended to keep rain out of vertical truck exhaust pipes if you don't already know. Just look at the top of the exhaust pipe on the big rigs. They clamp to the pipe with a built in clamp and you can get them from silly small, like 1 1/2" pipe up to 6" BIG rig bling pipes. Just buy one that fits the bottom leg of your tuyere and clamp it on upside down. The built in counter weight will be a little light so it'll want to hang open, not to mention the air blast blowing it open. So, extend the lever the counter weight is on and add a little weight if necessary and that's the thing. I suggest aiming the extended arm towards where a guy is working so you can reach under with a poker, tongs or whatever and dump the ash if you need to. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimsShip Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Here's a link to the rain cap Frosty is talking about. I made a dragon head (Poorly done i'll admit, I was new to all this!) to bolt onto the counter weight to keep it closed. It was handy just to hit it with the coal rake to dump it! As far as the blower goes, You have to open it up and see what's going on in there. It may be rusted or if your lucky, just jammed up with rocks or old nests or something. Open it very slowly and carefully and take some pics along the way so you know how to put it back together! Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 This thread should be useful to you. I used a squirrel cage blower for mine and hinged it. Go to the link and you'll see what I mean. My brake drum forge is in the middle of what doubles as my welding table which allows larger pieces and you can pile up fuel. '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 As I recall that type of blower may have a removable cap to the gear box that you have to remove 2? visible screws and then *SLIDE* the cap along it's major axis to free up a hidden inside screw. (As I recall you slide it away from the end with the visible screws.) Be gentle with it as cast iron is a fragile material. Tapping with a wooden or brass mallet may be required. Penetrating oil all around the seam highly suggested. Once the cap is off soaking the entire thing in diesel or kerosene or other gunk cleaner for a week or more is suggested and then trying to wiggle the fan back and forth to free up the system (fan has a better gear ratio going backwards into the system than the handle going forwards) If there is absolutely no sign of oil/grease/gunk you might look into electrolytic derusting rather than solvent soaking. Remember the bywords of old machinery restoration is *GENTLE* and *SLOW* far better to take an extra month than to have to fix broken parts---replacement of them is usually NOT an option! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacuff1414 Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Ok guys here's where I am at with the Champion blower... I sprayed it down with some WD40 and I think it helped because I can now turn the handle and the fan spins...good sign. The only thing that I'm curious about now is the clicking sound it makes as it's turning. It sounds as if the fan is barely scraping somewhere, but not completely sure. I attempted to take it all apart, but there is not much indention in the screws to get my screwdriver down in to have enough force to get the screw out. I'm thinking they may also be slightly rusted in. The pin in the middle of the fan (I'm guessing it screws/attaches into the gears somewhere in there is slightly loose (like it can barely be wiggled). Any suggestions? The handle turns and the fan spins fine, just makes the continuous clicking sound (less when it's spins slowly, more when it spins faster). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Can you take the fan shroud off and look for wear on a vane and then file it slightly or take the risk of bending it slightly? I had one that would tick when I turned one way and not the other way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Mud dobbers like to nest in them, and the gear case probbably requires oil to splash lube the gears. I'm a fan of ATF and solvent (just about any thing from desile to zippo lighter fluid (naphtha), and marvil mistery oil for long sokes. It's best if you can get her disassembled, and cleaned. Replacing any gaskets alongs the way. Now I'm an old mechanic not a hand cranked blower repair man, there are guys on hear that know these things inside and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacuff1414 Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Thanks for the replies. I would like to disassemble it, but it seems very difficult due to the old screws and how tight/rusted they are. I've tried for over an hour today and can't get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Don't get discouraged or in a hurry! An hour to not be able to get a screw out sounds like a LONG time but it isn't. It's rusted together close to but not really welded, just very stuck. There are a few tricks but whatever you do you have to take time and be easy on the old girl. Soak it in oil, penetrating oil, there are good commercial rust buster oils, PB Blaster for one is excellent. Diesel or kerosene work as does old school automatic transmission fluid. WD 40 works but it's not the best. Just get something in the joints to break the rust and give it time. An old guy I used to know told me whatever stuck a part will free it up. If it's rusted water will break it free. It doesn't always work but it does more often than not. Surprised heck out of me when he showed me. If you have access heat can really help but it's cast iron so you MUST be careful or it will crack. Warm the outside piece, not the screw and chill the screw, the hole will get large and the pin will get smaller. A few drops of oil when it's hot will penetrate aggressively and help break things loose. Warm and chill repeatedly will work things loose. Like I say nothing always works but something will just be patient and keep after it. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 To ad to Frosty's list, try tightening the stuck fasener, don't try and twist it off, just try and get just a fraction of a degre. Also hitting the fasener, again don't hit it so hard you deform the head or crack the cast iron body. Now, last my screw drivers, especially standard (flat) bladed ones come in a whole lot of sizes, get one that fits the slot well, even if you have to modify the screwdriver. , sometimes you have to clean up the slot, using a healers file or a fine tool The hacksaw or two. Don't get crazy here. Lastly, a bit of Valve leaping compound might just give the screw driver the extra grip it needs. It her toos and tricks, if you can find a bit that fits well, a 1/4" air or electric impact might get it loose, but be real carful, that goes for hand held impact drivers as well (used for getting stubern screws out of old car doors) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tacuff1414 Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 Thanks Frosty and Charles. I will soak in one of the oils and hope the rust comes loose enough to get the screws out. No discouragement here...just more determination and anxiousness to get it done so I can get to working! Thanks again for all the help...I'm sure I'll be back often for some more help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimsShip Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 If you have a Dremel, try and get a bit small enough to deepen the slot. Another old trick is to get a rubber band. Place it over the screw, and push down really hard while twisting left, the rubber sometimes helps keep a grip on it. (It would have to be dry and oil free though!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo7 Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 spray/soak with kerosene/acetone mix at 50/50 then use a battery operated screw gun, not drill, works the best on rusted bolts & screws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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