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I Forge Iron

Welding RR track to mild steel?


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I had a feeling 7018 would be the way to go.

And yes I'll be hardening it. It will be a long while before I can get the project sorted but I will post pictures when i do.

I HT'd some rr track a few years ago by dunking it in a barrel of water. It came out pretty tough and has seen quite a bit of abuse since.
I believe the track we get here is slightly different to the US stuff but I could very easily be wrong on that one.

Either way, much appreciated as always gents.

All the best
Andy

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Must be different steel, I quenched rail in water once and it was as brittle as ceramic, just a moderate tap with a hammer broke a large piece from one end. I annealed it and used something else. That was years ago and was my first experience with trying to heat treat rail. I do much better now I know a little bit.

 

You might want to see if you can find the data on your rail, better safe than sorry.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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T 11 Steel is / would be a perfict start for this project IMHO and 7018 welded out . However , I would use NIClad as it is what we use for "ARMOR plate repairs on Tanks" (Military)

 

****Note your work must be Clean and Properly prepaired for welding the two together.****

 

IE ( Bevaled and pre-heated to dull red before welding with NIClad rods ) once welded you can heat Treat and Temper back (a must for this ) and you will have the equilivent to an "ARMOR" Anvil . < Grins>

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Naw, if you have a source of T-1 it will at least make an excellent face plate. I'd be seeing how it brazes to an ASO face and maybe turn ASOs into real anvils. Something with the quiet of a Fisher and maybe good rebound. The horn would still be a weak sister but a brazed face could give a decent anvil face without having the hassle of trying to weld to cast iron.

 

It's been on my back burner for some time now, since a guy gave me a pristine ASO, may be worth the experiment.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Naw, if you have a source of T-1 it will at least make an excellent face plate. I'd be seeing how it brazes to an ASO face and maybe turn ASOs into real anvils. Something with the quiet of a Fisher and maybe good rebound. The horn would still be a weak sister but a brazed face could give a decent anvil face without having the hassle of trying to weld to cast iron.

 

It's been on my back burner for some time now, since a guy gave me a pristine ASO, may be worth the experiment.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

 

 

Interesting thought there Frosty. I have a nice size chunk of 3/8" T-1 I inherited I haven't had a use for yet. I'll have to keep this idea in the back of my mind in case I come across a cheap ASO to use with it.

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  • 1 month later...

Before I knew better, I welded this together with 6011 with a Lincoln 220 stick without any preheating.  Guess I got lucky as it's held up well under intense hammering, including a 10 lb sledge. 

 

post-34362-0-18281300-1401208730_thumb.j

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  • 1 month later...

So guys the plan is to weld this piece of RR track:

image.jpg

image.jpg

To this length of steel.
image.jpg

In such a way as it resembles a viking style anvil, such as this one I saw in a museum in Stavanger Norway.
image.jpg


That anvil is obviously a reproduction too, which was loosely based on a historical anvil they had on display elsewhere i n the museum. To my amazement it actually had a tiny 1/4" or so Pritchel hole - which I will replicate.


I stupidly cut the track a bit short. It could do with being an inch longer really so I might have to try and forge it.

The question is do I use the fatter part of the rail or cut the wide base off and use that as the face plate...

Also I want a small horn on there too, so I wondered about mounting it vertically with the T section forming a horn.

Or, do I use the fat part, and weld on part of the base to form a horn?

It's all going to be a heck of a lot of welding no matter how I do it. I've got 5kg of 7018 rods to get me started. I'm hoping that will do the bulk of the work...

Any ideas gents?

Andy

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