stovestoker Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I have a piece of RR track and a 7x 12x 1 chunk of steel. I don't have a proper anvil at this time so I was going to weld the 1 inch chunk of steel on top of the piece of track. Using the track as a base and horn. when I hit both with a cutting wheel they throw about the same amount of spark ( don't know what kind of steel the big chunk is) the RR track throws a little darker yellow spark. Can I bring the chunk of plate steel up to non magnetic and quench to make it a hardened top plate for the face? Or am I simply wasting my time trying to polish a xxxx? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Just use the RR track as an anvil as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Can you, maybe. Is it realistic? Lot of work and expense for the return (now of corse we are blacksmiths....) turn the rail up on end. It's a small area but it works much better. If your going to go threw the trouble of trying to get a full penitration weld and heat treating a large chunck of steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stovestoker Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 Well I have a stump anvil, but it does not have a flat edge. I was thinking I could get bigger edge in this manner. But mostly I just wanted to know if the slab could be hardened in this manner. even if I didn't weld it to the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 What about something like this? This was my first anvil and I still use it today when I need a sharp edge. Hindsight I should've welded the plate directly to the rail, but this has so far held up under blows from an 8 lb sledge when flattening the head of a spike that I'm making into a cross placed in the "hardy hole" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Cut a piece off of that steel and see if it will harden and how. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stovestoker Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 What about something like this? This was my first anvil and I still use it today when I need a sharp edge. Hindsight I should've welded the plate directly to the rail, but this has so far held up under blows from an 8 lb sledge when flattening the head of a spike that I'm making into a cross placed in the "hardy hole" RR track anvil.jpg WOW! that's a confabulation if I have ever seen one. But hey if it works..... Cut a piece off of that steel and see if it will harden and how. think this is a ( why didn't I think of that? situation) going to hack off a piece this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stovestoker Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 My stump anvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 With big chunks like this you will whant to get a couple of the big water totes, and dump water on top of the "anvil" if you dunk it steam will form and insulate the steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stovestoker Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 well my stump anvil is good to go. Think I might work a flat area on to it like Dan C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Just use the "stump" anvil. Horns are latecomers to the craft you don't need one for most any operation. AND that gear has a nice shaft if you need to true something up. Of course you can try what you propose but all in all you'll be better served learning to forge on what you have. It isn't the tools that do the work, it's the smith. You don't even need a flat surface, I don't know how long it was done but many Viking blades were forged on boulders and I'd be willing to bet using cobbles for hammers. Build your skills sets and you'll find it doesn't make a lot of difference what you use for an anvil, hammer, cut, etc. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Weyger's "The complete Modern Blacksmith" has an entire chapter devoted to how to make a london patterned anviloid from RR rail including heat treat instructions. ILL it at your local public library. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stovestoker Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 Thanks all1 great Advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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